VEECON

Found out my passenger side exhaust manifold is warped. I have a '10 F150 5.4 4x4. I've seen threads about the issue but have some questions. Ive been told by a local shop that Ford has a replacement manifold to address this issue where it has a heat shield. Should i replace it with this or get an aftermarket header? If aftermarket, which ones work with the 4x4 trucks? Ive seen people recommend OBX a lot but when I search for them, it only shows ones available for the 2wd trucks. Appreciate the help.

RogueGT

JBA is a terrific speed pro dealer for Ford products. They offer a 50 State legal 5.4L shorty header set for about $420.00. I've had JBAs on my Stangs throughout the years they make some awesome quality products.
http://www.stage3motorsports.com/167...y-Headers.html

dcrabby

I agree with the suggested JBA solution. I used used JBA Shorty headers on my F150 5.0. to replace a cracked exhaust manifold. Smooth and easy install.

If yours is only slightly warpped, you might look into having it machined to level the face

VEECON

I didn't know if the shorty headers were good to get as when i searched, everyone kept saying only to get long tube headers. So the JBA is direct replacement and does not need any other modifications for the swap and works on 4x4 trucks? Is stainless steel good to get or would the ceramic coating be better to prevent any failures? My passenger header is warped bad and definitely needs replacement but i want to make sure to do it right due to the cost of the install. As I said, apparently ford has an updated replacement manifold but if the aftermarket is a better solution and provides some power increase, then I am definitely up for that.

dcrabby

JBA Shorty headers are a direct replacement for the exhaust manifold. The header collectors bolt directly to the down pipes (your existing exhaust pipe that connects to the cast iron manifold). It is about that simple.

Some people opt for long tube header. They are desireable on larger engines that need more breathing capability. IMO your engine would not gain enough to make the long tube worthwhile ... some here may
disagree

Steel tube will have a shorter life due to rusting.... cost the least.
SS will last longer due to rust and corrosion resistance ..... cost is more $$$
Ceramic are coated ... rust and corrosion resistant ... run much cooler ... much more expensive

VEECON

Appreciate the explanation. I ordered the JBA headers in stainless from Stage 3 due to the recommendations from everyone in the thread, so I should be ok with stainless and not need ceramic? I live in an area that gets snow etc in the winter. The stainless wont warp or run into the same issues as stock? Just want to make sure I made the right decision to get stainless instead of ceramic incase i need to change my order before they ship.

dcrabby

You will be fine with stainless steell. they will discolor some, but some of us like that. There may be some light rusting at the welds but mothing damaging (yes 'stainless will sometimes rust lightly on the surface)

When you ordered, your supplier should have asked you all the question about vehicle to ensure proper fit . You should be satisfied with the SS. I have used on Jeep CJ5, and two F-150. This assumes you have a stock exhaust system to begin with

dcrabby

AND THEN: if you have deep pockets

If you are wanting a 'performance' exhaust, consider a true dual exhaust incorporating your headers. A good exhaust/muffler shop that caters to performance can do the work. They will design your system with the optimum pipe sizec with the least constriction. And then you may want to look at your intake (throttle body, air intake, etc)

no, you still do not need ceramic coated headers ($$$$)

VEECON

Ok, I will stick with the stainless steel. Currently, I have a K&N drop in filter (seen that intakes don't really help on these trucks) and a Banks cat-back exhaust with a SCT tune from 5 star tuning. Would it be worth doing high flow cat's? any other mods that i should do?

Btw, i see you are from New Mexico like me, would it be worth it to get a re-tune locally in Abq (was recommended Chris from Dyno Edge) or get an update tune from 5 star? I am used to forced induction cars and know that elevation makes a big difference in tuning but don't know if it is the same with N/A motors. Im assuming the tune from 5 star is a general tune from sea level.

dcrabby

Banks is good. I ran their Power Pack on my F350 7.3 diesel for 130k miles.

It sounds like you already have made some performance mods thru tuning (SCT & Star). I use HyperTech.

I cannot think of a single reason to add high flow cats in a basically stock engine. That might be something you would do with a Roush built engine or other turbo-charged or super-charged engine. ABQ altitude would negatively impact a naturally aspiratied (carburated) engine. K&N air filters are a small part of performance. They help clean incoming air but I'm not convinced they increase HorsePower.

Ford Coyote handles altitude well.

No intention to insult anyone, but I have a feeling that you are jacking me around.