Did you hook up the ststem yourself? The H1/8 green wire from the alarm to the wires at the smart junction box with a diode in line on each wire? Four diodes total?
Side note I am having trouble getting the PKALL to program, any help with that?

 

OK I got the PKALL system working and th truck starts fine. Still can not get the door triggers to work correctly. I hooked the up and the system never sees a door open. I have changed the trigger to normally open and normally close but both ways dont help........

 

Did you try it without the diodes?

 

Screw it, I wired it to the dome lamp circuit using H1/6 violet wire to smart junction box connector c2280a pin 9. Works but sometimes when you arm it it says door open until the interior lamp goes out. I can live with that until I figure out the REAL WAY to wire it. The remote start works and the rear defroster comes on automaticly when the temperature is below 55 degrees in the truck. I can still turn it on manually too. Guess I shall move on to the heated seats next!!!

 

OK I got it to work. Hooked diodes in line with the four wires and used the H1/6 violet wire from the alarm module. With a door open the wire will see 12volts and set off the alarm. Just as it should. Four days later I am happy.

 

Hey Guys!

I am a fairly technical person, at least I would like to think so, but when it comes to remote starts/security systems, they scare the hell out of me. I think it’s more the "idea" of doing it, then actually doing it... just scared I will fry something.

I have read these:
https://www.f150forum.com/f38/viper-5901-install-75334/

https://www.f150forum.com/f38/2010-re...s-match-71887/

With that said, given the fact that lately there has been a lot of help on here on how to do this, I am more comfortable in taking the leap. I would, however, love if someone could give specific wire-to-wire procedures that they followed... it appears it has been a little different for each person.

MNFX4: I did read your post in the other forum pointing this out for the most part, but for some reason (to me at least) there seems to be quite a few wires not hooked up/missing.

Fordtechman: How/why did yours differ? What did you do differently?

Also, when I talked to installers to get this installed, they told me that I would have to run a new, heavier gauge wire from the battery. Also, there seems to be a lot of inline fuses on my old one they ripped out, is this normal?

If you guys ran a new power cord or used the hood latch, where did you go out at thru the firewall?

I know this is a lot - and I am asking a lot, but this could save me nearly $400!!!

Thanks everyone,
Jon

 

The viper systems are meant to work on a variety of different vehicles and have the ability to customize your install in different ways. Some vehicles have a different style of locks and starter systems so Viper includes all those wires too. The fact is that you really only need a select few wires and I actually cut and sealed more than half the wires because they had no use in the install. For example: trunk output, all the flex inputs, turbo timer, etc.
As for running a new power cable, that sounds absurd the unit draws minimal power. I installed a sound system in my truck so I already had a power cord for that running through the firewall so I just squeezed the hoodpin wire through with it. If you look on the left hand side of the engine compartment you'll see a rubber boot with a little nipple, the best I can describe at as, I snipped off the "nipple" and you can slide the wire through and it will come out behind the glove box.

Feel free to ask me anything else. I know how daunting it can seem at first.

 

I think one of the reasons I am confused is because if it weren't for this site, I would have never known to use the DIODES! Now, there seems to be a delima between where to use them. Also, I read the picture you posted as 8 diodes....

I may just finally be in over my head - so affraid of frying something!

Also, in your other thread, which is what made me question the wiring (not questioning you!), is that you state that you DID NOT use H3/5, but the way I read the install manual:

You cut the starter wire (BLU/WHT) and hook the Violet wire to the cut wire that goes to the starter and the green wire to the cut wire that goes to the ignition switch side.


So the way I read your post was that you just tapped into the wire without spitting it appart...

Am I being to much of a pain in the *****?!

Thanks,
Jon

 

You'll be fine with just the 4 diodes on the viper wires, the other 4 on the original line are overkill.

On F150's you do not need to cut the trucks starter wire. You only use that if you want to add the vipers built-in starter kill. The trucks comes with PATS which is more than enough to stop someone from stealing your truck. When you remote start it will apply voltage to H3/4 which in turn applies it to the trucks starter just like you would have if you turned the key over.

 

OK - so "if" I would have done it this way, I would not have screwed anything up... it would just have been an extra layer of security!

Same with diodes, I did read that right also--again, just an over kill...

So all-in-all, I am reading everything right - its just not all "necessary"... either way would have been no harm/no foul, correct.