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Ultimate compound on 2011 f150

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Old 02-16-2014, 07:21 PM
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If you're just looking to polish, you should be using an adjustable RPM machine and probably just some glaze. No reason to use a rubbing compound as others have said. Being able to adjust the RPM means everything, especially if you're not familiar with the process.
Old 02-16-2014, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Hwm3
That machine doesn't have enough power to properly use Ultimate Compound.
This^^

What you bought is only good for a wax...in a pinch. The micro abrasive tech used in UC is best realized with a random orbital like a Porter Cable.

Those types of machines work with a backing plate and a variety of pad choices.

Can you use UC by hand? Sure. Will your machine do SOMETHING? Sure. But to truly get the paint correction one seeks when using a compound....or UC which us more of a stout polish in my mind.....well, you need the right tools.

Regardless of outcome, top your work with something as any previous wax/sealant/protection is now gone.

Hope it worked to your liking.
Old 02-16-2014, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Hwm3
That machine doesn't have enough power to properly use Ultimate Compound.

What he said

Get yourself a quality DA orbital and a selection of ccs pads. I prefer the uber compound 3.0 the best out of anything. Next favorite is blackfire.
Old 02-16-2014, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Hwm3
That machine doesn't have enough power to properly use Ultimate Compound.
You're wrong. It took all the waterspots and almost ALL the swirl marks. It's the auto spa buffer and it's random orbital for polishing and buffing


Also used microfiber bonnets. Never seen my car shine like that after the ultimate compound. I waxed it with ultimate paste wax and I am going to guess it dulled the shine a little. Once it's washed again it will fully pop. Also, went to buff the wax with the buffing machine and it seemed like it was putting small swirls in it. I just stopped right away and finished by hand.

Great product!
Old 02-16-2014, 09:54 PM
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Just read all the post in this thread. The UC took all the crap off my car. I thought the clay bar would've, but didn't even touch.

Some of you act like this is hard. It's easy as ******
Old 02-16-2014, 10:24 PM
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buy a porter cable or if you plan to get into the art of detailing, buy a flex. I've put my portercable through hell and i can still achieve world class results with it. Best of luck
Old 02-16-2014, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Dreaux
You're wrong. It took all the waterspots and almost ALL the swirl marks. It's the auto spa buffer and it's random orbital for polishing and buffing


Also used microfiber bonnets. Never seen my car shine like that after the ultimate compound. I waxed it with ultimate paste wax and I am going to guess it dulled the shine a little. Once it's washed again it will fully pop. Also, went to buff the wax with the buffing machine and it seemed like it was putting small swirls in it. I just stopped right away and finished by hand.

Great product!

As far as water spots, a quick Detailer should be enough to address those. Check out the autogeek forums. Very informative in detailing. The correct tools/products will make your life easier and your truck looking even better.
Old 02-17-2014, 01:11 AM
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You'll be just fine with the Ultimate Compound with a microfiber bonnet. I've used the Compound and Polish, both Ultimate on my prior 2006 True Blue paint and it was a great combination followed by the Ultimate Liquid Wax. Turned out to be a very nice, durable, long lasting combo with an incredibly deep rich color.
I use a Porter Cable DA Orbital, 10" pad with bonnets and it works very well. I will soon, once the weather warms up some, be washing...claying...compound (maybe polish, will see how the compound plays out on the Gray)...and waxing the new truck. That process is about 6-7 hours for me.

Lots of folks don't like the Meguiars brand, but they work well for me, especially since I don't have a garage and often have to use a product that has to/can be applied in sunlight.



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