Truck has left me stranded 7 times so far, dealer cant solve it, now what??
09-30-2013, 06:28 PM
#61
Senior Member
I hope you get it worked out but I think my suggestion may work for two reasons.
1. they want to have a happy customer and it isn't going to break them to try something as the alternator.
2. if not the lemon law has bite before the cost! Which means you check out to see if the lemon law applies,, which it does,,,, then you call Ford Corporate and tell them you would like a buy back since you have been advised the lemon law applies to your issue and before going that route and for a swift resolve you strongly suggest they offer a solution!
Now if that doesn't work you get a lawyer to write a letter to corporate stating it is your intention to follow through with a law suit using the lemon law and would strongly suggest to avoid the issue and resolve the problem his client would accept a buy back or straight up trade for a new F150
1. they want to have a happy customer and it isn't going to break them to try something as the alternator.
2. if not the lemon law has bite before the cost! Which means you check out to see if the lemon law applies,, which it does,,,, then you call Ford Corporate and tell them you would like a buy back since you have been advised the lemon law applies to your issue and before going that route and for a swift resolve you strongly suggest they offer a solution!
Now if that doesn't work you get a lawyer to write a letter to corporate stating it is your intention to follow through with a law suit using the lemon law and would strongly suggest to avoid the issue and resolve the problem his client would accept a buy back or straight up trade for a new F150
09-30-2013, 07:12 PM
#62
One Bad MoFoMoCo Owner
As soon as you even mention Lemon Law, Ford will refer you to speaking with their team of attorneys. Forget any cordial attempts at resolving the problem after that.
If you want to get their attention, make a huge sign to sit in your bed as you drive around town, with the dealers name and a picture of a lemon. Make sure to drive past the dealership a couple times the first day.
Bet they offer to buy back your truck very quickly.
If you want to get their attention, make a huge sign to sit in your bed as you drive around town, with the dealers name and a picture of a lemon. Make sure to drive past the dealership a couple times the first day.
Bet they offer to buy back your truck very quickly.
10-01-2013, 06:16 PM
#63
Ford Customer Service
...So I'm just supposed to keep living with a truck that dies randomly and then keep dropping it off for a week+ at a time hoping they MAY find the issue some year. This is BS, i bought a new truck to have a reliable vehicle, not have it dead, and in the shop all the time.
Totally bent i bought this Ford, the most unreliable new vehicle i have ever owned.. Hell i bought beaters when i was 19-20 years old for $500 that had 100K miles on them and were more reliable than this NEW truck is so far
Totally bent i bought this Ford, the most unreliable new vehicle i have ever owned.. Hell i bought beaters when i was 19-20 years old for $500 that had 100K miles on them and were more reliable than this NEW truck is so far
Please keep in touch with me and/or your CSM. If you continue to experience this concern, your CSM will be able to talk to you about your options.
Ashley
10-02-2013, 12:48 PM
#64
Senior Member
So I got an update on what fixed the truck here at work, it was also a 2012. After a bunch of diag the tech found a connector at the back of the truck that was full of water. And it was shorting out causing the Bcm to stay on. Not sure which connector.
10-03-2013, 05:02 AM
#65
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
May have encountered a similar problem with my daughter's 2011 F150 last night. I purchased it about two months ago with 18K miles on it. Dealer said it was a lease vehicle taken in on a trade. Car-fax showed only general maintenance except alternator changed about a year ago. OK a bad alt (so I thought). Truck drove well for the past two months. Getting 19 mpg with the six cyl.
Truck drove normally to the local high school JV football game last night - about 10 miles from home. Truck sat in parking lot for 2-3 hours. Daughter called and said it would not start. Asked her to check the headlight switch to make sure lights weren't inadvertently left on. Switch was off. Attempted jump - would not start. Entire instrument panel no power. With key out of the ignition she could hear clicking noises like solenoids toggling back and forth. Recorded a short phone video of noises emanating from around the engine block. Disconnected battery terminals to get the 'clicking' to stop. Reconnected terminals and tried key in ignition. Instrument cluster lights flashed a few times but starter would not crank. Seems like the ignition has a lot of play in it for a two year old vehicle (just an observation). Dealer was closed by then so we locked it up and came home. Will start with the information we obtained and gained from this thread to see if we can track down the root of the problem. Will post results to see if it will help original poster. No rain around here since last weekend, three-four days ago. Truck drove fine until this last night.
Truck drove normally to the local high school JV football game last night - about 10 miles from home. Truck sat in parking lot for 2-3 hours. Daughter called and said it would not start. Asked her to check the headlight switch to make sure lights weren't inadvertently left on. Switch was off. Attempted jump - would not start. Entire instrument panel no power. With key out of the ignition she could hear clicking noises like solenoids toggling back and forth. Recorded a short phone video of noises emanating from around the engine block. Disconnected battery terminals to get the 'clicking' to stop. Reconnected terminals and tried key in ignition. Instrument cluster lights flashed a few times but starter would not crank. Seems like the ignition has a lot of play in it for a two year old vehicle (just an observation). Dealer was closed by then so we locked it up and came home. Will start with the information we obtained and gained from this thread to see if we can track down the root of the problem. Will post results to see if it will help original poster. No rain around here since last weekend, three-four days ago. Truck drove fine until this last night.
10-03-2013, 07:25 AM
#66
Senior Member
Sounds like a faulty ign switch, the truck here at work had one and if you left the key in it would keep the PCM powered up. I'd get an am meter on it and see if you have a large draw cause even in 2-3 hours if you've left the lights on you should still have enough power to start or at least listen to the radio. I'd say you have a several amp draw somewhere.
10-03-2013, 08:26 PM
#67
from owners manual, do you have this? has it been reset?
Battery Monitor System (If Equipped)
When a battery replacement is required, the battery should only be
replaced with a Ford recommended replacement battery which matches
the electrical requirements of the vehicle. After battery replacement,
or in some cases after charging the battery with the external charger,
the BMS requires eight hours of vehicle sleep time (key off with doors
closed) to relearn the new battery state of charge. Prior to relearning the
state of charge, the BMS may disable electrical features (to protect the
battery) earlier than normal.
/end
I think the dealer can also reset this with their IDS.
Battery Monitor System (If Equipped)
When a battery replacement is required, the battery should only be
replaced with a Ford recommended replacement battery which matches
the electrical requirements of the vehicle. After battery replacement,
or in some cases after charging the battery with the external charger,
the BMS requires eight hours of vehicle sleep time (key off with doors
closed) to relearn the new battery state of charge. Prior to relearning the
state of charge, the BMS may disable electrical features (to protect the
battery) earlier than normal.
/end
I think the dealer can also reset this with their IDS.
Last edited by black09stx; 10-04-2013 at 08:45 AM.
10-05-2013, 09:48 AM
#68
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It appears the battery was the culprit in the case of my daughter's truck.
My voltage reading on it was 11.5 that next morning. At the dealers it showed as low as 10.4.
Dealer replaced it with a new FoMoCo battery and everything powered up fine so we will keep an eye on it.
Thanks for the information regarding the sleep time to learn the battery charging. Will keep the truck and my daughter close to home for a few weeks just to be on safe side. If anything turns up similar to continuing problems gsxr1216 noted I will be sure to share.
My voltage reading on it was 11.5 that next morning. At the dealers it showed as low as 10.4.
Dealer replaced it with a new FoMoCo battery and everything powered up fine so we will keep an eye on it.
Thanks for the information regarding the sleep time to learn the battery charging. Will keep the truck and my daughter close to home for a few weeks just to be on safe side. If anything turns up similar to continuing problems gsxr1216 noted I will be sure to share.
10-17-2013, 10:16 PM
#69
I found this thread because I just developed the same problem with my 2012 XL, 5.0, power doors, windows and mirrors but that's all. After sitting 4 days it was stone dead. Now after 24 hours it's gone from 12.8 no load volts to 11.9. I know that's not acceptable but I really don't know what is. Hopefully this is a consistent problem and can be diagnosed. I'll post if I find the problem.
From day one it's made a hum in the rear end when the key is inserted in the ignition, not turned. Same hum happens SOMETIMES when brake pedal is depressed with no key in the ignition. There is also a high pitched whine in the engine compartment for ten or fifteen minutes after shut down, ending with a fairly loud click. Is any of that normal? Just wondering if those noises are related to the problem.
From day one it's made a hum in the rear end when the key is inserted in the ignition, not turned. Same hum happens SOMETIMES when brake pedal is depressed with no key in the ignition. There is also a high pitched whine in the engine compartment for ten or fifteen minutes after shut down, ending with a fairly loud click. Is any of that normal? Just wondering if those noises are related to the problem.