DirtDawg

As some of you might have figured by now, I'm the ****-retentive type that "sweats the small stuff". Not necessarily the best trait to have but it is what it is...

OK then, I've spent too much time pondering installing driver and passenger UnderCover SwingCases purchased several weeks before my new truck actually arrived. I'm not crazy about drilling 6 holes per side but know doing that is needed for secure mounting and to support loaded weight. My issue and question relates to Step 1 instructions; "On some trucks, it may be necessary to remove the tie down" (since the cleat prevents the mounting bracket from being flush against bed side wall) and also states; "Place the bracket in position, make sure the bottom of the bracket is flush or as close to bottom of the floor".

My truck has factory sprayed bed lining so removing the cleat isn't optimal for appearance while losing functionality of that cleat. But wait, I thought, why not just raise the bracket enough to clear the cleat? So I mocked that up with cut sections of 2x4 which raises the bracket enough to clear while still allowing limited use of that cleat (below the cases, side-to-side or with case temporarily removed).

I'm unclear why mounting bracket(s) must be mounted flush with the floor. Before I drill holes and find out why the hard way, have any of you who installed these cases positioned the bracket higher up as shown? Problems? Suggestions?

BTW, I have a Leer topper on order that will cover and protect the contents...

TIA...

wz3mo

I'm not sure why they say flush with the bed. I mounted mine about 2 inches high from the bed and no issues. I think you'll be fine.

Lethal Weapon

I slightly raised mine as well.
I also took the tie down, put it in a vice & modified it so it will still work with no obstruction to the bracket. (I think I also turned it upside down too). But this way, I can still use the tie down even though the strap goes either above or under if I need it to tie down something small. If I need a lot of strap tension, I just remove the swing box. But everything still works great with a little modification. I also used silicone where I drilled my holes & thru my line-x so rust won't be an issue either.
If you need pics, let me know.


Edit: yea, I missed the "sprayed over cleat / tie down too. You can still modify it carefully to get your clearance you need.

Fudd757

In some installations the factory cleats will interfere with the swing cases. Some have simply removed their cleats and then re-installed them upside down...me, I didn't think of that, so I hammered them down a bit until I got clearance. I read the original thread a little late.

DirtDawg

Thanks guys, for your quick replies! So now I can proceed w/o ending up with extra useless holes to plug w/ sealant.

Yeah, I'd really rather not mess with those sprayed-over cleats. Having those cases 1.5-2" higher than per instructions seems a non-issue for the way I'll use 'em. Since the topper will be in place, easiest and most convenient way to access case contents is simply to swing them outboard towards the tailgate.

Lethal Weapon

The only obstruction you may have is if you ever install a bed cover (or "topper" cap as you mentioned) in the future and you may need the room at the top for the mounting clamp clearance. (Can always modify that too if that need ever arises)....other than that, as long as the bracket for the swing case is all flush & bolts tighten with no issue, it doesn't really matter how high or low you mount it because it uses it own bracket system to hinge & latch, so you're all good!
Show us your completed pics!

Fitter

You mentioned a new Leer topper was next, you may want to see how they want to attach. My leer has four clamps the sit a couple inches down from the bed rail. I've had a Snug top on another truck and liked their J hooks better.

DirtDawg

Well, actually had a new ARE Z-line on it for a few days but wasn't happy w/ fit so dealer accepted full return while an equivalent Leer likewise was custom ordered. Chose clamps vs drilled thru-bolts on the ARE and will do same on Leer 100XL. I don't expect an interference fit since clamps should be outboard of SwingCases but will evaluate at time of installation within a few weeks.

Yes, I'll post followup pics when finished...

DirtDawg

OK, project done but not w/o lesson learned. I carefully spaced the passenger side vertical brkt up to desired position (prox 1.5" above deck) then marked/drilled pilot holes for all mounting points w/ brkt pulled tight against tailgate area channel upright (applied tread material to brkt backside to protect sprayed liner) w/ 3M 5200 Marine sealant applied to all screw threads.

OK, so the horizontal side support brkt has quite a bit of up/down flex due to being riveted to the main brkt plus the latch assy is adjustable. That's where I made a mistake of assumptions. After drilling/bolting in position and slipping the case over the hinge pins, side brkt locking flange (90* bend) was prox .75 out of alignment w/o sufficient adjustment possible. While pondering that, I installed the driver side case same way but instead, slipped the case onto the main brkt, engaged the flange/latch, determined best placement on truck side wall, then marked, drilled and sealed the final 2 Teks screws. Success! Afterwards, I had no choice but to replicate same method on the passenger side which meant drilling 2 new holes, plugging those "useless" ones w/ black silicone sealant, then finishing the installation. For now, both cleats remain in position, although I'll probably invert them for add'l clearance under the cases.

I suggest anyone else planning a similar deviation from printed procedures do a "test swing" so to speak to confirm latch engagement before drilling. In the end, those 2 extra holes are plugged and invisible while the SwingCases look good and are certain to function nicely for my purposes...

'

Lethal Weapon

Looks great brother! Glad it worked out for you & you'll like the cases too!