Trailer Sway Problem
#21
Member
Thread Starter
Yea... I didn't want to mention that I also towed for a couple years with a GMC crewcab Duramax diesel. Problem towing with that rig was trying to keep it under the speed limit regardless of grade! Not a fair comparison though.
#22
Member
Thread Starter
This is the root of your problem. 200# tongue weight on a 5000# trailer is only 4% and should make any rig sway. That thing is just dancing on the trailer axles with nothing to keep it straight.
The perplexing part however, is why haven't you had this problem all along, it should have plagued your other tow vehicles in the same way! Despite that point, get the tongue weight up by moving the load forward. Can you shift the boat up further on the rails to increase the tongue weight? You need to be above the 500# mark.
Personally I use a tongue scale to ensure my loads are properly distributed which gives me nice sway free ride:
The perplexing part however, is why haven't you had this problem all along, it should have plagued your other tow vehicles in the same way! Despite that point, get the tongue weight up by moving the load forward. Can you shift the boat up further on the rails to increase the tongue weight? You need to be above the 500# mark.
Personally I use a tongue scale to ensure my loads are properly distributed which gives me nice sway free ride:
Like your scale! Yea, I can shift the boat load more forward. I'll give this a shot & let you guys know if this fixes the problem. Thanks for the input
#23
Similar issue when moving a long distance year before last; trailer rock stable below 65, increasingly unstable above that. Tongue weight was the culprit.
Keep in mind that the upward force on the front of the boat increases with speed.
Keep in mind that the upward force on the front of the boat increases with speed.
#24
Member
Thread Starter
The lack of tongue weight can be a real issue.
Also, the P series tires will allow more sidewall flex than a LT tire will. A quick test that I would do is, put the max air pressure (marked on the tire sidewall) in all the tires and go for a spin. Tires are rated to run all day at max pressure without issues. If it's very hot out, the air pressure in a tire can increase by ~5%. Anticipate this and run down that 5% on hot days.
How many miles are on the truck? The shocks could be worn out. I have replaced the stock shocks (IMO, total junk) on my new truck at 3000 miles. The truck just felt too soft and I didn't like the lack of control on the stock shocks.
The combination of low tongue weight, worn shocks and tires could be your issue.
Also, the P series tires will allow more sidewall flex than a LT tire will. A quick test that I would do is, put the max air pressure (marked on the tire sidewall) in all the tires and go for a spin. Tires are rated to run all day at max pressure without issues. If it's very hot out, the air pressure in a tire can increase by ~5%. Anticipate this and run down that 5% on hot days.
How many miles are on the truck? The shocks could be worn out. I have replaced the stock shocks (IMO, total junk) on my new truck at 3000 miles. The truck just felt too soft and I didn't like the lack of control on the stock shocks.
The combination of low tongue weight, worn shocks and tires could be your issue.
I would prefer higher rated tires, but didn't want buy new ones with less than 22,000 miles on the truck. I'll also check tire pressure to rule that out although I'm pretty certain they were pretty close to max. They didn't appear to be under pressure what I looked them over, but possible. I'll have the dealership also confirm shock wear tomorrow before I pick it up even though they said they looked everything over & didn't see any issues. Thinking lack of tongue weight has to be the issue along with tires contributing to the problem. Thanks
Last edited by KR_FL72; 01-08-2014 at 01:30 AM.
#25
Member
Thread Starter
I agree with trailer tongue wt.
I also agree with checking the hitch set up.
He needs to measure the height of the rear bumper without being hitched,
then measure it hitched, the boat/trailer needs to be level.
I solved a similar problem a couple of years ago by going with better tires,
(Stronger Sidewalls) and changing my hitch.
Sometimes it's as simple as lowering the hitch, other times you can help yourself by altering the pitch of the ball.
I'm assuming he's using something other than a non-adjustable Walmart hitch. Not knocking them, but he's got something out of whack, and I don't think it's the F-150
The problem needs to be addressed before you venture back out.
I also agree with checking the hitch set up.
He needs to measure the height of the rear bumper without being hitched,
then measure it hitched, the boat/trailer needs to be level.
I solved a similar problem a couple of years ago by going with better tires,
(Stronger Sidewalls) and changing my hitch.
Sometimes it's as simple as lowering the hitch, other times you can help yourself by altering the pitch of the ball.
I'm assuming he's using something other than a non-adjustable Walmart hitch. Not knocking them, but he's got something out of whack, and I don't think it's the F-150
The problem needs to be addressed before you venture back out.
I have been running a non adjustable 6" drop hitch that I've used with all my other stock trucks (1/2 ton, 3/4 ton Chevy's & Toyota Tundra). Tires on most of the truck's were quality 10 ply tires. Have usually ran the factory supplied 4 ply's until they wear out without any prior problems. Want stiffer sidewall tires, but wanted to get full use out the current ones before replacing if possible.
I had already measured the amount of rear end drop at 1" with the boat loaded & then unloaded from the truck. That's without making any adjustments to the boat & trailer for increased tongue weight...which I'm about to do.
I've never heard of altering the pitch of the ball though? I'll have to look into that.
Planning to make sure the truck's loaded with proper trailer tongue weight, trailers level, tire pressures good, shocks confirmed to be good from dealership and see how she pulls again. Then raise ball height if need be for added tongue weight. Consider new tires if need be... Then sell if the issue isn't fixed
Let you know how it turns out
Thanks for the suggestions
Last edited by KR_FL72; 01-08-2014 at 01:57 AM.
#26
noob :)
it looks from the picture that you could slide the boat ahead a foot or more... the front V thing can be slide ahead on the frame
#27
Senior Member
Something else I'm wondering going by the picture, is how loose is the hitch in the receiver? It looks like that set up sticks out past the edge of the receiver a fair bit to where the ball is. Maybe it doesn't fit in the Ford's receiver the same as the others? If it's loose at all, that may cause it to sway a bit or at least add to the combination.
#28
Member
Thread Starter
I agree. I don't think him moving only an inch will take care of it.
Something else I'm wondering going by the picture, is how loose is the hitch in the receiver? It looks like that set up sticks out past the edge of the receiver a fair bit to where the ball is. Maybe it doesn't fit in the Ford's receiver the same as the others? If it's loose at all, that may cause it to sway a bit or at least add to the combination.
Something else I'm wondering going by the picture, is how loose is the hitch in the receiver? It looks like that set up sticks out past the edge of the receiver a fair bit to where the ball is. Maybe it doesn't fit in the Ford's receiver the same as the others? If it's loose at all, that may cause it to sway a bit or at least add to the combination.
Last edited by KR_FL72; 01-08-2014 at 09:31 PM.
#30
Most people dont know how to properly load a trailer tounge wieght and how much weight is behind the trailer axle. This is not a truck issue it is common user error. Ther are several places online that can give you diagrams and such to better explain. Without the trailer sway control that took over you would have wrecked if you were in that bulletproof silverado