Big Bad Blue Ford

just picked up my new 2013 f150 xlt... bought a trailer hitch cover ... plugged it in.... doesnt work... i installed the relay and fuse... still nothin.... pulled the cover plugged into my jeep... works.... i have no idea what it could possibly be any insight would be a great help...dont know much about towing a trailer but thinking of getting a camper.

kidastra

iTrader: (1)

check the fuses under the hood first
#37,38,67 all those are for the 4 pin

BrianF150man

I have a 2010 F150 XLT. I have the same issue. The parking lights work fine but no turn or break lights. Here's the thing though. It was working just fine and suddenly stopped. I looked at the wiring and there is no corrosion or breaks in the wires. Nothing visible. My lights on my trailer are LEDs in the rear and side lights are just bulbs. When the parking lights are on, all bulbs, LEDs are working. The truck has no lights out at all. Does anyone know if the feed from the truck to the harness connector is fused specifically for turn and break lights? Thanks!
Brian

RoyBraddy

I have a couple of ADAPTERS I got from AMAZON that plug into my 7-way and 4-pin trailer connector. These have LED small bulbs that will show whether or not your truck trailer ports are working normal. ETRAILER.COM also carry these two items...

My 2010 F150 has individual fused circuits for the trailer lights in one of the fuse panels. you might check those out.







These adapters sure take the guessing out of the situation.

Roy Ken

BrianF150man

As it seems there was a short in the trailer wiring that blew a fuse in the truck. On my 2010 F150 under the hood fuse box there is a fuse specific for turn and break lights and a fuse for parking lights to the trailer plug. The break and turn signal lights fuse is #45 and parking lights #31. Both are mini 20A fuse. Being on sperate fuses explains why parking lights remained working and the breaks and turn signals did not. The logic of using two fuses is simple. One fails there is still illumination on the trailer for safety. I repaired the short. I have a folding tounge on my trailer and it has wires the feed through. When I locked the tounge in place it pinched the wires and cut through to short the breaks and turn signal wire to ground on the trailer. I taped up the wires and added a plastic wire shield to cover the wires with more protection. Repaired it for under 15.00. I hope this helps others with the same challenge.

Brian the F150 man

spotterjoe

I buy & sell a lot of trailers as well a renting a couple of pontoon boat trailers. I carry both a 4 pin tester as well as a 7 pin tester plus a box on mini fuses from Harbor Freight. The first thing I do when negotiating for a trailer is to show the seller that my 4/7 pin is working properly. Then I connect to trailer and if everything doesn't work, I use it to negotiate the price down. Likewise, if someone is renting a trailer, I check their tow vehicle first to make sure its functioning properly. If your time is worth anything, buy the testers! Also, you can buy a box of 30 assorted fuses for what you would pay for 1 on the road. Just my $.02

TruckGal150

This thread helped 8 years later. Same thing happened with me. 2011 F150 XLT. 5 point inline & 7 connectors acted the same. Test light only lit with running lamp. No power to stop/turn. Running lights work, no TT stop/turn on either side. Used to work until about a year or so ago. Checked the OM for fuses found EC fuse box 37,38 relays & 73 20A** fuse. 73 was bad. Switched the box fuse with 71 20A box fuse for heated rear seats I don't have. Now, TT stop/turn work with running lamps. Thanks!

CleitusDaBlack

FIX IT. IF YOU HAVE NO LIGHTS AT ALL
Check Trailer Wiring(with tester or another vehicle)
Check Fuse(s) and Relay(s) are installed from the factrory
Check For Blown Fuses under the hood typically #73 for F-150
Then shove the wires back into the 7 pin connector.

For me it was the last step. Cheers!