Thinking on Trade In - HELP?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 551
Likes: 14
From: Texas
Thinking on Trade In - HELP?
Looking to trade in my F-150 XLT EB. It has 32,657 miles on it. 97% of that is all highway miles.
I do not want to get nailed when trading it in. I know they will get me with some, but just don't want them to abuse of me.
Want to trade it in for a 2013 FX4. I am in no rush to trade it right now. I know that in Nov, Dec they will have some huge sales.
I already tried once, and they were trying to tell me that i was basically trading in one PoS for another PoS and that i would be upside down 20k on my 2011. So i basically told them they could keep their PoS and i would keep their other PoS and look elsewhere.
I just don't want to get reamed. I know i would be upside down some, but 20k? That is just ridiculous.
I would like to be treated fairly. Like i said i just want to hit up the right dealer that is willing to work with me in H-Town. Even willing to travel up to 400 miles if need be.
Would appreciate some input. This would also be the 4rth ford vehicle i buy from ford. You would think they would treat you better. Who knows, maybe dodge will give me a better deal.
I do not want to get nailed when trading it in. I know they will get me with some, but just don't want them to abuse of me.
Want to trade it in for a 2013 FX4. I am in no rush to trade it right now. I know that in Nov, Dec they will have some huge sales.
I already tried once, and they were trying to tell me that i was basically trading in one PoS for another PoS and that i would be upside down 20k on my 2011. So i basically told them they could keep their PoS and i would keep their other PoS and look elsewhere.
I just don't want to get reamed. I know i would be upside down some, but 20k? That is just ridiculous.
I would like to be treated fairly. Like i said i just want to hit up the right dealer that is willing to work with me in H-Town. Even willing to travel up to 400 miles if need be.
Would appreciate some input. This would also be the 4rth ford vehicle i buy from ford. You would think they would treat you better. Who knows, maybe dodge will give me a better deal.
Retired and loving it!
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,810
Likes: 536
From: Spokane, WA
I take it your F150 is a 2011? With over 32K miles, its considered a pretty high mileage truck. You are trying to deal on a 2013 at the beginning of the model year, which is not a good time to expect the rebates and prices that Ford now has on the 2012's.
I wish you the best, but without more information on your current truck (ie list price and what you paid for it compared to what they are offering you on trade in), it is not likely you are going to get very specific advice here on what you should do.
I will say this to your last comment.....if you think that your F150 has depreciated, wait 'till you try to trade in a Dodge pickup!!!
I wish you the best, but without more information on your current truck (ie list price and what you paid for it compared to what they are offering you on trade in), it is not likely you are going to get very specific advice here on what you should do.
I will say this to your last comment.....if you think that your F150 has depreciated, wait 'till you try to trade in a Dodge pickup!!!
5 Year Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 957
Likes: 189
From: AZ
Upside down is only as good a term as the guy who made the deal...
Who knows- if you paid too much in the first place, put no money down at all, financed taxes, tag, and warranties at a dealer APR, then wanted to trade in a truck after its first and biggest year of depreciation, it's totally possible you could be 20k underwater...
You need to figure out NADA/KBB/manheim prices for your truck, then see what you owe on it, to even see if you could get out from under the note. Usually the first few payments on any loan are mostly interest...
I would never roll negative equity into a new loan- that's crazy
Who knows- if you paid too much in the first place, put no money down at all, financed taxes, tag, and warranties at a dealer APR, then wanted to trade in a truck after its first and biggest year of depreciation, it's totally possible you could be 20k underwater...
You need to figure out NADA/KBB/manheim prices for your truck, then see what you owe on it, to even see if you could get out from under the note. Usually the first few payments on any loan are mostly interest...
I would never roll negative equity into a new loan- that's crazy
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 801
Likes: 67
Check NADA to get a ballpark trade-in value. Then subtract what you still owe on your loan. It is quite possible that you could be very upside down, depending on what you paid for the truck, what you still owe on it, and how much it's worth now.
Average mileage for a vehicle is 12,000-15,000 per year. You truck seems to be a high mileage vehicle. It doesn't matter if your mileage was done in the city or highway. Saying that it's mostly highway mileage is just a phrase people like to use as a selling tool, but in the end, it doesn't matter. There's a reason why the appraisal places don't ask you what percentage of your driving was city and highway.
Average mileage for a vehicle is 12,000-15,000 per year. You truck seems to be a high mileage vehicle. It doesn't matter if your mileage was done in the city or highway. Saying that it's mostly highway mileage is just a phrase people like to use as a selling tool, but in the end, it doesn't matter. There's a reason why the appraisal places don't ask you what percentage of your driving was city and highway.