tailgate lock
#71
Senior Member
Like Ian said, the gray/brown is one. I couldn't get the purple/white to work but I can't remember what the other wire was (I think it was the light blue/green). I do know that I tried many wires to unlock on the second push of the button but never did find the right combination. If you figure that out, please let us know.
The colours are grey/brown-black (depending on your eyes) and Light Blue/Light Green for 1 button press unlock and Grey/Brown-Black , Violet-Purple/White for 2 button unlock.
If you don't have one, get yourself a multimeter, gator clips and a straight pin to test the wires for function first.
If it locks/unlocks backwards, reverse the wires.
The following users liked this post:
ct f-150 (11-27-2013)
#72
Senior Member
This thread is outstanding. I plan to do the mod soon -- hopefully I can learn from some of your mistakes and not bleed as much as usual.
I'm no rocket surgeon when it comes to this stuff...
I'm no rocket surgeon when it comes to this stuff...
#73
Ok, Im wondering if anyone has done this lately? Im having real trouble getting this working properly. I have the lock / unlock feature working just fine its when I go to get the opener hooked up that I cant make it work.
So I have the 522T Trunk Solenoid and I thought it would be best to test it first to make sure that I understood the wiring through the relay, so I hooked it up with the relay but using the push button that came with it. Then I programmed my TR7 and verified that when I push the unlock 4 times it activates the output but when I hook the TR7 up as the switch into the relay nothing happens.
So I was thinking maybe the TR7 is bad so I decided to mount the solenoid and hook it up with the button inside the cab for now until I get the remote switch figured out, and here comes my second problem. I mounted the solenoid to where it is a straight pull on the release mechanism but the solenoid will not pull the release far enough to actually open the tailgate. Ive tried to tighten the wire as much as possible but it appears that there is still too much slack or the travel on the solenoid is not far enough. Has anyone else had this problem with the 522T? Im starting to get frustrated as Ive spent 2 or 3 nights on this now between both the lock / unlock and the opener and cant seem to get it figured out, especially since I have the same parts everyone else seems to be using.
Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
So I have the 522T Trunk Solenoid and I thought it would be best to test it first to make sure that I understood the wiring through the relay, so I hooked it up with the relay but using the push button that came with it. Then I programmed my TR7 and verified that when I push the unlock 4 times it activates the output but when I hook the TR7 up as the switch into the relay nothing happens.
So I was thinking maybe the TR7 is bad so I decided to mount the solenoid and hook it up with the button inside the cab for now until I get the remote switch figured out, and here comes my second problem. I mounted the solenoid to where it is a straight pull on the release mechanism but the solenoid will not pull the release far enough to actually open the tailgate. Ive tried to tighten the wire as much as possible but it appears that there is still too much slack or the travel on the solenoid is not far enough. Has anyone else had this problem with the 522T? Im starting to get frustrated as Ive spent 2 or 3 nights on this now between both the lock / unlock and the opener and cant seem to get it figured out, especially since I have the same parts everyone else seems to be using.
Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
#74
Senior Member
Okay im at a loss. Does anyone know the wires for 2013 single cab? Couldnt find wires in the cables on the driver side running to the back of the truck so i opened up the door and ran a cable to hook it all up. No black brown or purple white, did find green blue. Hooking the actuater up directly gave me no function regardless of combination. I'll test with a different actuater tomorrow and also give a list of cables present.
#75
Senior Member
I had to get a 12v tester & check a lot of wires to find the correct ones. Ground the test light & check each wire for lock & unlock voltage. Best with a light tester since it only sends voltage for a split second.
#77
Senior Member
#78
Senior Member
Alright got it figured out. I was trying to wire innto the lock switch in the door rather than the mechanism. Two wires were grey/brown and bkue/green. Under the lock mechanism there is what looks like some kind of sensor, held in place by two plastic clips, any idea what this is?
Anyways thanks for al the help and the great thread, now to find my reverse lightwire and do the backup camera
Anyways thanks for al the help and the great thread, now to find my reverse lightwire and do the backup camera
#79
BoostKing Tuning
How are you guys getting this to fit with the tailgate step? I dont see enough room above or below the locking mechanism to mount the actuator where it will line up with the locking mechanism. Without the step I could see how this fits easily. Please if anyone has pictures of this installed with the step, I'd love to see how.
__________________
www.BoostKingTuning.com
2022 F150 Tremor - Current - BoostKing Custom Tuned 440whp on 93. --- 2022 Expedition Stealth H.O. - JB4 Only --- 2018 Mustang Hellion Sleeper - 907 whp on E85
2022 F150 Tremor - Current - BoostKing Custom Tuned 440whp on 93. --- 2022 Expedition Stealth H.O. - JB4 Only --- 2018 Mustang Hellion Sleeper - 907 whp on E85
#80
Senior Member