I am stuck in Mexico right now because my truck will not start, no cranking, just a click. It was in a front end collision a couple months ago. Towed it to a mechanic that said he could return it perfect. Returned it with a blinker not working, seatbelts won't pull out, fan wires no connected, so back in it went. 5 weeks without the truck at this point. Get it back, drive around for a week or so then it starts randomly dying on me. he was scamming me for more money each time I brought it in. Later found he triple charged me for the job that other mechanics should charge.

The ground terminal was broken and just press fit on there. It dies a couple more times on the way to get a new terminal. Install the new terminal and the truck ran for a bit, then dying again. This time it was white corrosion on the Ground terminal and a loose nut on the main positive cable to the power box, in the box. Runs fine in the morning but want to make sure everything is okay.

Water is really low in the battery, 3 years old Everstart, so fill it up with distilled water, put it on a charger for several hours until it reads 100%. Put in it the truck and same issue. Got a new battery and same issue. Had a local acquaintance call for an "electrical specialist" who could not get his scan tool to communicate with the car, only got an error communicating. He checked the relays and fuses, cleaned all the contacts, I swapped starter relays with the blower, which I know is working. Same problem. He thinks it might be the computer and wants to tow it to his shop, which is fairly expensive, plus he is costly.

How could taking the battery out and putting it back in cause this? I could really use some help, I'm running out money to throw at this thing.

2013 XLT 3.5 Ecoboost

 

One click is generally a starter problem.

 

Thank you, I have gone through all the threads and YouTube videos and tried everything suggested, even jumpering relay terminals to bypass the PCM. There is a new guy coming out tomorrow and he said he could see if it was the starter. It's an hours walk to the hardware store for test cabling and I did it today for a multimeter, which they didn't have.

 

It's really tough to say more than you've probably already read. Without tools to check things out.

Do you mean you've jumpered to the starter and it still won't start? Normally that sounds like the starter, but the scan tool not communicating is also troubling. I mean, relay 10 is your PCM relay. There's a bunch of PCM fuses, hopefully those were all checked. The OBD fuse is 24 inside the passenger footwell. Did he check inside?

 

Thanks for the reply. No, I have not jumpered the starter because I thought that could be a false positive and one needs to remove the starter to test properly. And that top bolt, on the starter, is impossible with the limited tools I have. Checking 24 inside now.

 

As I recall, a long socket and a 6" extension allowed me to get to that bolt perfectly. And finding the right angle to lay under there and get my right hand all the way over the starter to reach it, left hand on the ratchet. But, that's just a comment for future reference if needed.

We've seen more starter wire problems popping up, there was one on the forum just this week. Either the signal or power wire. Trucks are over a decade old, makes sense.

 

24 is still good, I tried and have the extension but I could not get at the bolt. Like the manifold needs to be removed almost.

 

Uh, I forgot you have the 3.5. That may be different.

 

Pita, I can't get the top bolt!

 

I done mine a year ago (on a 5.0).yes a pita it is pita to get to big time...... what I did I used a 6 POINT socket only ....After a day of no luck cause I had problems getting the socket on that middle bolt...then i had turning problems with clearance past the rear of starter!!.......I ordered 2 different 3 piece sets of 3/8 drive extensions from amazon.... The reason I got 2 sets is because the smallest extension in each set was a different length !!.......going from memory here but 1 set short extension was 1'' long & the other set the small was either 1 3/8'' or 1 1/2 '' long...Best money I ever spent because when I needed a little length I now had choices............. Yes it was still a pita but I got it !!...... Spent 2 + days laying under that trk just to change the starter !!
Now later on & I actually re-read this a few weeks ago while browsing this forum I read that 1 guy said to tackle this job by removing the inner fender well....Kinda makes sense as maybe you can @ least see better if working from the ground like i tried ?? If you have problems putting that first bolt back in try this put a small piece of rag in your socket then jam the bolt into it....It will hold that bolt straight so you @ least can finger start the bolt !!.........Good Luck !!