jr07

correction....I need to find the female connector harness for the male end wired in the truck.

king nothing

I highly doubt you will find a connector that matches up unless you can buy that part of the wiring harness from Ford. What I will be doing is tapping the factory wires. The tap cuts through the insulation on the wire and allows you to piggyback a second wire onto it without actually cutting the wire. If you want to remove the tap you can and then just wrap some electrical tape around where the insulation is broken

Feathermerchant

FWIW I ordered the service manual and electrical diagrams from Helminc.com for $170.
They have been a big help.

duffey05

Wow! Very helpful. Good Luck. I have a 2013 XLT Ford Sync, no Nav. So, I have ordered the Audio Control Lc7i, 2 sets of Boston Acoustics 5" Components and a Boston Amp to run them. I plan on adding another amp, subs and a head unit in a year or two. So my question is are there any harnesses available so I don't have to cut wires? or is tapping into the wires behind the player my best option? Lastly, I ordered speaker wire adapters for the 2013, should I get my input from the doors (so I don't void my warranty) or is that too much work?

clpeller

Hey OP, I didn't get around to reading the whole thread. But the thing that popped out at me is you mentioning that we've got a 220 amp alternator on these trucks. One thing you should know about that rating, is that ford rated their alternators at 6000 RPM. So at normal operating RPM, it's probably closer to a 80-100 amp alt. I would recommend taking that into consideration, as most High Output alternators are rated at around 1500-2000 RPM. Good Luck with your build!

jr07

@ King Nothing, tapping the wire is the next best thing for sure. I was hoping someone had found a female harness of some kind. If there is nothing out there that would fit, then I guess I'm gonna go the same route you are. Have you found out whether or not you will need to tap into any of the other connectors (Blue & Gray/Red connector)? I know for sure the middle (Gray/White) connector will be used.

@ clpeller, I did not know Ford rated the alternators at 6000rpms. I appreciate the post. I guess what I'll do is do my install and if I see dimming or cut out, I'll go ahead an upgrade to a mechman.

king nothing

if you have the 4 inch screen in the dash there is no module or harness that you can use. I suggest tapping into the factory speaker wires down by the kick panels. Using the adapters that you have and getting your signal from the doors would be a huge pain in the ***. You would have to run speaker wire out of the door back to your audio control unit and then run speaker wire back into the door.

I don't have the Sony system, so I will just be tapping my front speaker wires at the kick panels.

jr07

quick update....I've been searching for a four channel amp for a while now, and I think I may go with this one:

http://www.polkaudio.com/products/pad4000_4

I think it would go well with the DB6501 6.5 components in the front (100 watt rms @4 ohms) & the DB571 5x7 inch Coaxial in the back (60 watt rms @4ohms)

The amp pushes out 125 watts x 4 channels @ 4ohms. It will provide more than enough power to the speakers. Every review I've read has good things to say about it. Plus, I like sticking all with one brand for the mids and high/amp.

If I need to make custom brackets for all the door speakers, I'll do the cutting boards for all doors.

king nothing

Looks like a solid amp. Little expensive unless you can find a deal

jr07

Found it on Amazon for $281....Also took the advice of many people and ditched the u seal for dampening. I decided to go with second skin dampener.

Measured out my front and rear doors and the back wall, got 40 square feet of the dampener.