Sony "Premium" system fully delete via forscan
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Sony "Premium" system fully delete via forscan
I have seen quite a few threads on the non-sony system line level out stuff, but I didn't see many who started with the Sony System. So here is how that is done. Pretty similar but some minor differences.
This retains all sync voices and beeps for backup. Backup beeps do appear to be coming out of IP speaker but I am fine with that. I also do not have rear speakers connected right now.
This allows for COMPLETE removal of the Sony amp, speakers, and subwoofer.
My setup is the following
727-01-01 xx58 D000 xxxx
727-01-02 00xx flat eq ouput
7D0-01-01 0xxx xxxx xxxx -disables Sony DSP and deletes Sirius (use 2 if you want sirius as an input)
First I started with the For-11ck harness coming out of the ACM and used the Rockford fosgate speaker wire to rca plugs.
I would not suggest these anymore. I had issues with them as well as many others. I also used the METRA 72-5600 speaker adapter harness. All speakers use these including the tweeters. You would need 6 of them if you do not use the center channel, 7 if you do)
Connect the RF rca plug wires to the side that plugs into the ACM/CD player. It is the connection closest to the drivers side.
Connect your RCA amp input cables to the RCA plugs (the ones that go from the ACM to your amp). Run your cables to wherever your amp is.
DO NOT CONNECT YOUR AMP SPEAKER OUTPUTS HERE! We do not have wires going to the speakers at this point. We have left and right audio out and that just goes to the sony amp. I initially made this mistake and had to cut my nicely soldered wires .
Connect the other side of the for-11ck harness to the factory plug. Just ignore the speaker wires.
This is where the sony system comes into play. Your speaker outputs are after the sony amp in the center plug (darker grey on mine) on the amp.
I ran Stinger 9 wire speed wire from my amp speaker outputs to these wires and spliced in at this point. With the amp removed, you have plenty of space to place your crossovers (if you have them) at this point too. The sony system has speaker wires for front mid bass, front tweeters, and rear speakers so you could tap into all of them at this point. You could opt to just bypass this part and run new speaker wire to all of your speakers, but I didn't want to run it through the door molex and connecting harness. That is just a pain. Also, 18 gauge GOOD QUALITY COPPER WIRE is fine for this amount of power. I will not be using all 100 w rms the amp can output.
Due to it being Saturday and needing to get the truck back together, I opted to cut the wires at this point instead of trying to find the correct female side of the plug. If you can find the correct connecting female side harness (I believe this one is the right one http://www.metraonline.com/part/AX-AB-FD1) you can have no cut/splice. Here is what that looks like. FYI: The speaker wires are the twisted pairs.
From there it is a "normal" audio install.
This retains all sync voices and beeps for backup. Backup beeps do appear to be coming out of IP speaker but I am fine with that. I also do not have rear speakers connected right now.
This allows for COMPLETE removal of the Sony amp, speakers, and subwoofer.
My setup is the following
- Factory MFT Sync 2 with navigation and ACM low level line outputs via forscan
- Rockford Fosgate 360.3 DSP
- Alpine PDR-V75 5-way Amp
- JL Audio Truck Powerwedge 10" TW3 (fits perfectly under rear seats)
- Active 2-way front crossover setup
- Stereo integrity tm65 v1 midbass
- Image Dynamic XS 28 tweeter
727-01-01 xx58 D000 xxxx
727-01-02 00xx flat eq ouput
7D0-01-01 0xxx xxxx xxxx -disables Sony DSP and deletes Sirius (use 2 if you want sirius as an input)
First I started with the For-11ck harness coming out of the ACM and used the Rockford fosgate speaker wire to rca plugs.
I would not suggest these anymore. I had issues with them as well as many others. I also used the METRA 72-5600 speaker adapter harness. All speakers use these including the tweeters. You would need 6 of them if you do not use the center channel, 7 if you do)
Connect the RF rca plug wires to the side that plugs into the ACM/CD player. It is the connection closest to the drivers side.
Connect your RCA amp input cables to the RCA plugs (the ones that go from the ACM to your amp). Run your cables to wherever your amp is.
DO NOT CONNECT YOUR AMP SPEAKER OUTPUTS HERE! We do not have wires going to the speakers at this point. We have left and right audio out and that just goes to the sony amp. I initially made this mistake and had to cut my nicely soldered wires .
Connect the other side of the for-11ck harness to the factory plug. Just ignore the speaker wires.
This is where the sony system comes into play. Your speaker outputs are after the sony amp in the center plug (darker grey on mine) on the amp.
I ran Stinger 9 wire speed wire from my amp speaker outputs to these wires and spliced in at this point. With the amp removed, you have plenty of space to place your crossovers (if you have them) at this point too. The sony system has speaker wires for front mid bass, front tweeters, and rear speakers so you could tap into all of them at this point. You could opt to just bypass this part and run new speaker wire to all of your speakers, but I didn't want to run it through the door molex and connecting harness. That is just a pain. Also, 18 gauge GOOD QUALITY COPPER WIRE is fine for this amount of power. I will not be using all 100 w rms the amp can output.
Due to it being Saturday and needing to get the truck back together, I opted to cut the wires at this point instead of trying to find the correct female side of the plug. If you can find the correct connecting female side harness (I believe this one is the right one http://www.metraonline.com/part/AX-AB-FD1) you can have no cut/splice. Here is what that looks like. FYI: The speaker wires are the twisted pairs.
From there it is a "normal" audio install.
Last edited by jdunk54nl; 09-10-2020 at 10:39 AM.
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kbrock (10-19-2019)
#2
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Here is the rest of my install
Custom 6.5" speaker brackets out of 1/2" MDF.
I traced the factory speakers and then traced my 6.5"s on top of this to allow for the additional circumference.
I then marked factory bolt holes and recessed the factory bolts into the wood using a 1/2 bit. Otherwise the 6.5" won't mount due to the factory bolts (I would suggest leaving a little more edge around the bolt holes).
I also put closed cell foam on both sides to decouple from the doors and speakers.
Custom 6.5" speaker brackets out of 1/2" MDF.
I traced the factory speakers and then traced my 6.5"s on top of this to allow for the additional circumference.
I then marked factory bolt holes and recessed the factory bolts into the wood using a 1/2 bit. Otherwise the 6.5" won't mount due to the factory bolts (I would suggest leaving a little more edge around the bolt holes).
I also put closed cell foam on both sides to decouple from the doors and speakers.
Last edited by jdunk54nl; 03-18-2019 at 02:31 PM.
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
For my amp rack I used 1/2" MDF
I mounted behind the drivers side rear seats.
I made a little foot that goes into the handle like thing on the bottom to hold the bottom in place and then 3 self tapping screws on the top.
I painted it with rubberized under coating to make it match better and absorb the sound better.
I also used 1/4" nylon spacers under each piece of equipment to help with airflow under them. I was trying to use them to space out the equipment to not cut any of the back wall carpet, but that wasn't working out how I wanted it to, so I gave up and cut it.
I did mess up on my first install (as you can see by the picture) and had the rear window motor cable on the front side. I had to remove the rack and place that behind the rack. It runs in the channel and isn't impacted at all.
I still need to clean up my rack wiring some, but I am having issues with my 360.3 right now so am trying to fix that first.
I mounted behind the drivers side rear seats.
I made a little foot that goes into the handle like thing on the bottom to hold the bottom in place and then 3 self tapping screws on the top.
I painted it with rubberized under coating to make it match better and absorb the sound better.
I also used 1/4" nylon spacers under each piece of equipment to help with airflow under them. I was trying to use them to space out the equipment to not cut any of the back wall carpet, but that wasn't working out how I wanted it to, so I gave up and cut it.
I did mess up on my first install (as you can see by the picture) and had the rear window motor cable on the front side. I had to remove the rack and place that behind the rack. It runs in the channel and isn't impacted at all.
I still need to clean up my rack wiring some, but I am having issues with my 360.3 right now so am trying to fix that first.
Last edited by jdunk54nl; 03-18-2019 at 02:30 PM.
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I don't have pictures of the sub, but it is under the middle of the rear seats. Nobody sits in that one but they sit on both ends so I figured middle was the best option.
My tweeters were installed in the factory locations using plumbing strap
I also used these connectors for quick disconnects of my tweeters. They have wire running to them directly from the amp as it is easy to do these and not use the factory wiring.
My tweeters were installed in the factory locations using plumbing strap
I also used these connectors for quick disconnects of my tweeters. They have wire running to them directly from the amp as it is easy to do these and not use the factory wiring.
Last edited by jdunk54nl; 03-18-2019 at 02:34 PM.
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Powerlifter405 (07-22-2021)
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Right now my 360.3 is not functioning properly so I have that bypassed it to just my sub and midbass speakers (no tweeters)
All I can say is WOW! This sound is so clean and clear even without tweeters or any EQ'ing. I can't wait to get my DSP up and running and see what this can really do!
Also side note: To get a better soundstage, I reversed the leads on my passenger side speaker so negative on amp is positive wire to speaker and positive on amp is negative to speaker. This helped get the speakers more in phase so my sound wasn't "sounding" like it was coming from both doors but more the middle of the truck now.
All I can say is WOW! This sound is so clean and clear even without tweeters or any EQ'ing. I can't wait to get my DSP up and running and see what this can really do!
Also side note: To get a better soundstage, I reversed the leads on my passenger side speaker so negative on amp is positive wire to speaker and positive on amp is negative to speaker. This helped get the speakers more in phase so my sound wasn't "sounding" like it was coming from both doors but more the middle of the truck now.
Last edited by jdunk54nl; 03-20-2019 at 12:11 AM.
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Update to this. A quicker and cheaper way to do this is using this adapter for $15. This should work on all sony amps and ford ACM's from 2011-2017 that use the sony amp.
Here are the metra adapters for the amp
http://www.metraonline.com/part/AX-AB-FD1
Only $15 too! https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...AX-AB-FD1.html
Leave all of the connections on the factory radio ACM alone. Just disconnect the factory amp 2 connectors and tie into the outputs on the connection to the inputs on your dsp/amp on the one side of this harness. Then tie your amp speaker outs into the speaker output connector on the other side. Make forscan changes and be done. No for-11ck harness needed.
Here are the metra adapters for the amp
http://www.metraonline.com/part/AX-AB-FD1
Only $15 too! https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...AX-AB-FD1.html
Leave all of the connections on the factory radio ACM alone. Just disconnect the factory amp 2 connectors and tie into the outputs on the connection to the inputs on your dsp/amp on the one side of this harness. Then tie your amp speaker outs into the speaker output connector on the other side. Make forscan changes and be done. No for-11ck harness needed.
Last edited by jdunk54nl; 10-18-2019 at 02:36 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by jdunk54nl:
Powerlifter405 (07-22-2021),
Spiky (10-17-2019)
#7
"Old" thread but informative. The links for products and extra pics is A+
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#8
Dielectrically 5w30
I think i tried to disable the bass roll-off, but couldn't find the right key, was that part of disabling DSP?
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
#10
Dielectrically 5w30