Z7What

A recent thread got me thinking and now I have a few questions. First off, I must state that I do not plan to or want to change my HU or Amp. Only thing I'm interested in doing is upgrading the speakers. With that being said.

What ohm is the factory system?

Those who have replaced the door speakers did you buy coaxial speakers for the front or components?

I ran MB Quart in my last truck and loved them, so as of right now that's the brand I plan to purchase.

Has anybody swapped out the sub to something else, does the factory Sony system have enough power to push a aftermarket sub enough to justify changing it out?

Wayne

hendersonjosephl

4 ohm is standad in non sub applications in automobiles. If you only upgrade the speakers you wont get any real improvement due to the head unit auto equalizer you would have to use a signal summong interface and a clean sweep type device and a better amp. Youbsaid you didnt want that so i say dont waste your time or money

Killav-TT

I was going to post a thread on my experience in changing out my REAR door speakers but have not got around to it.

Basically, I have a few sets of 6x8 speakers lying around from my XLT that I traded in. I did the rear first, because I had a door panel rattle that was driving me crazy. So I dug in and fixed the rattle and replaced the rear door speakers with a set of Pioneer Coax 6x8's that were a direct fit.

It sounded horrible. All of the bass was gone. And the volume nanny's rolled things off even FASTER than with the stock speakers. At first, I thought maybe I had reversed the polarity on the rear door speakers, but they were right. I didn't try to reverse the polarity anyway to see if it sounded better. The Pioneer speakers were 4 ohm's just like the factory Sony coax's.

I have no idea what kind of trickery is going on with the stock system/Sony amplifier, but its almost as if it sensed the different load from the aftermarket speaker, and altered the amp output, which screwed up the sound......

Also, the stock sony woofer is 1.2 ohm's per coil or something close. I threw my custom built under seat enclosure with a Polk Audio dual 2 ohm subwoofer (10"), and connected it to the factory amp. It sucked too. With voice coils almost twice the resistance of the factory sub, the bass output, although nice and deep, was very low in volume. And if I cranked it up, it just rolled off the high's and bass......so back in with the factory sub.....

dac79

Not that I'm an expert but I'd think this has more to do with the higher power handling of the after market speakers. The factory system may not have enough jam to drive them properly.

azmidget91

About the only "low" cost upgrade that is worth while is to stuff the sub box with polyfill. Anything else you need to upgrade everything to show any improvements.

KP Texan

It's mostly to do with speaker sensitivity.

Killav-TT

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...TS-D6802R.html

These are the ones I tried, and the sensitivity is a low 88db, with power handling at 60W nominal, and 260W to voice coil melt down. The stock Sony's said 23 or 25 watts on the back I can't remember. No mention of sensitivity, but I'm sure at a 20 something watt rating, the sensitivity is high for the stockers......

Edit: I also have a pair of these also with 88db sensitivity:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...e-SPS-517.html

And these with a sensitivity of 90db
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...io-C3-570.html

zimmer0

iTrader: (1)

this is the main reason why i opted not to get the Sony system. Anything "upgraded" from the factory is subpar IMO. The only factory upgraded system i found to sound somewhat decent was the alpine system in Dodge's and the JBL in Toyotas.

Rip all of the factory Sony out and go with a LOC to run a set of components 6.5" up front and a single/dual sub setup. This is what i did and sounds awesome. Kept factory headunit so everything works like stock.

TJPlatinumEB

My experience was quite the opposite with replacing the factory Sony speakers. I tried the polyfill of the sub and didn't notice hardly any improvement there. I also thought the clarity of the factory speakers wasn't up to to what I was hoping it would be. I replaced all the door speakers with Infinity Reference coaxials and kept the factory tweeters in the A-pillar's plugged in and working. I immediately noticed a huge clarity improvement over the factory setup. I was ok with that for awhile but then the factory sub began to bug me more and more and so I replaced it with a Kicker 12" sub and MB Quart amp and AudioControl Lc2i that eliminates the bass dropoff that the factory amp sends to the sub. That allowed me to take any bass out of the door speakers and leave it to just fill the mid and high frequencies and let the sub do the bass work.

In my 2011 I went all out with multiple amps, signal processors, components in all the doors, sound deadening etc etc etc and while my setup in my 2013 doesn't sound as good as that did, it sounds very good and worlds better than the stock Sony setup. There are certainly areas for improvement and my limitations are the stock Sony amp at this point, but without going to the extent I did in my 2011, that wont' change. I am more than happy with how it sounds now with a less than $500 investment in total for the whole setup that is in there now.

ryan_r_simpson

X2. I put focal k2p components and there was a huge difference up front. Crystal clear sound and they are still underpowered by the factory amp. I went with an after market sub amp. Start with a good set of speakers and go from there.