Topic Sponsor
2009 - 2014 Ford F150 General discussion on 2009 - 2014 Ford F150 truck.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

2.5" autospring- getting strut back in

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-01-2015, 09:58 PM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
WTF150's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Winfield, IN
Posts: 2,733
Received 627 Likes on 445 Posts

Default 2.5" autospring- getting strut back in

I just got a 2.5" autospring leveling kit, and now after doing some more reading, ive seen some guys say it is a royal PITA getting the strut assembly back in with the 2.5" spacer. Now I am having second thoughts, as I will be doing this in my driveway with basic hand tools. Now I'm kinda scared about disassembling everything and then not being able to get it back in.

Some of you guys that have installed them, any tips or pointers from experience?
Old 11-01-2015, 10:38 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
alpinestar1123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: santa clarita
Posts: 1,181
Received 152 Likes on 130 Posts

Default

Okay first of all its going to be a pain in the butt. Did you loosen or remove the sway bar link and did you persuaded with a pry bar. I've seen a couple videos were guys remove the rotors to give him a little bit more extra play so you don't damage the brake line. Is it a four wheel drive as well if so loosen up the nut for the CV axle to allow a little bit more play. Go on YouTube and look up rough country leveling kit install on a Ford f-150
Old 11-01-2015, 10:42 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
alpinestar1123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: santa clarita
Posts: 1,181
Received 152 Likes on 130 Posts

Default

Old 11-01-2015, 11:05 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
WTF150's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Winfield, IN
Posts: 2,733
Received 627 Likes on 445 Posts

Default

No, I haven't actually started yet. Just bought it and then started reading up on install tips and instructions, and got nervous when I read some experiences of guys having a hell of a time reinstalling the strut assembly with the spacer on top.

I am 2wd and was going to do everything the instructions say including removing the sway bar end link.
Old 11-02-2015, 02:19 AM
  #5  
New Guy
 
Fischer88's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Pearl River, La
Posts: 275
Received 29 Likes on 28 Posts

Default

When I put in my 2.5 AS spacer I just followed the instructions. My truck is a 2010, Idk if that makes a difference. I undid the sway bar, tie rod ends, and upper ball joint to remove the strut. When reinstalling it the instructions say to remove the front lower control arm bolt to allow the control arm and steering knuckle to pivot just enough to get the strut and spacer in. Before I undid the bolt I marked with a sharpie the bolt's position so I could get it back to where it needed to be. When I got an alignment the guy said the only thing out was the toe.
Old 11-02-2015, 04:30 AM
  #6  
Senior Member
 
Z7What's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 6,130
Received 871 Likes on 695 Posts

Default

The 2.5" kits I've installed in 4X4s require me to unbolt the lower control arm from the frame to get the strut back in.

Wayne
Old 11-02-2015, 09:27 AM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
DerekL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 112
Received 33 Likes on 17 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Z7What
The 2.5" kits I've installed in 4X4s require me to unbolt the lower control arm from the frame to get the strut back in.

Wayne
This, do not unbolt the axle, you can risk damaging the IWE system then your budget boost gets expensive, but this doesn't matter if you're a 2wd.
Old 11-02-2015, 09:51 AM
  #8  
Senior Member
 
Wiggum's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 1,813
Received 482 Likes on 354 Posts

Default

This has been beaten basically to death, and I recall being one of the first to post up about the installation of spacer leveling kits on the 2014 models. The "issue" is the two vertical mounting bolts on the bottom of the strut that connect to the LCA. These make the strut effectively about 2.5" longer from the start ... and after adding a 2" or 2.5" spacer on top of the strut, you've got a LONG strut to put back into the truck.

While I have heard of some instances where people have been able to use a pry bar to get the LCA pivoted down enough to put the spacer back in, I would NOT recommend it unless you undid the front axle from the hub ... but I would also not recommend doing that either ...

Because, if I have to disconnect something other than the strut, it's going to be the LCA ... just two bolts, drop it from the frame, put the strut back in, then bolt it back up. No risk of damaging other more "fragile" components on the truck ... and getting the LCA bolted back in effectively the exact same place it was prior to removal is NOT hard at all. And if you get one of those "camber bolt" kits that are made for our truck to help with alignment and keeping the LCA in place within it's slotted connection, it becomes that much easier to keep things right where they should be.

Long story short, just unbolt the LCA from the frame to remove and re-install the struts ... you'll be happy you did, for many reasons.
Old 11-02-2015, 10:28 AM
  #9  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
WTF150's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Winfield, IN
Posts: 2,733
Received 627 Likes on 445 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Wiggum
This has been beaten basically to death, and I recall being one of the first to post up about the installation of spacer leveling kits on the 2014 models. The "issue" is the two vertical mounting bolts on the bottom of the strut that connect to the LCA. These make the strut effectively about 2.5" longer from the start ... and after adding a 2" or 2.5" spacer on top of the strut, you've got a LONG strut to put back into the truck.

While I have heard of some instances where people have been able to use a pry bar to get the LCA pivoted down enough to put the spacer back in, I would NOT recommend it unless you undid the front axle from the hub ... but I would also not recommend doing that either ...

Because, if I have to disconnect something other than the strut, it's going to be the LCA ... just two bolts, drop it from the frame, put the strut back in, then bolt it back up. No risk of damaging other more "fragile" components on the truck ... and getting the LCA bolted back in effectively the exact same place it was prior to removal is NOT hard at all. And if you get one of those "camber bolt" kits that are made for our truck to help with alignment and keeping the LCA in place within it's slotted connection, it becomes that much easier to keep things right where they should be.

Long story short, just unbolt the LCA from the frame to remove and re-install the struts ... you'll be happy you did, for many reasons.
Thw autospring instructions say to unbolt just the front bolt on the LCA and that should provide enough clearance. Does that make sense?
Old 11-02-2015, 11:02 AM
  #10  
Senior Member
 
Wiggum's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 1,813
Received 482 Likes on 354 Posts

Default

no, that does not make sense, not to me. The LCA (and UCA for that matter) both are "A" shaped, and have two points of connection to the frame. If you only unbolt one of the two bolts that hold the LCA to the frame, then I don't see how you can pivot the LCA down away from the frame.

Just an FYI, Kevin (autospring) didn't have updated 2014 installation instructions when I did my kit ... As far as he knows, I was the first 2014 he sold a kit for. That said, i modified the instructions and sent them back to him so he could use on his site. I never went back and looked at what the final "edit" of the instructions was, so I have no clue if it says to only undo one of the two frame-mount bolts on the LCA. I believe you if you say that's what it says, but again it doesn't make any sense to me to only do one.


Quick Reply: 2.5" autospring- getting strut back in



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:37 AM.