MikeMcC

Gents,

I just received some Infinity Kappa 682.11cf speakers for all 4 doors of my truck. I also ordered some of the factory wiring adapters so I didn't have to cut any of the trucks wiring. That said, after taking delivery of the Infinity speakers, it looks like you actually have to screw the speaker wire directly into the back of these, as you can see in the image below.

Am I safe to assume that in order to get these to work, I'll just need to cut/strip the wiring adapters I ordered, and just screw them into the speakers?

Tallyman89

That's the way it looks to me. Be sure to get the polarity correct.

Robert8252

RLXXI

Yup.
.

zero64

Yep. Half the time you have to chop up the adapters anyway because aftermarket speakers don't have any standards when it comes to connectors. What you save yourself is having to cut up the factory wiring, which can be a pain because the wires are usually just long enough to get where they have to go.

If you wanna go entirely plug and play get these speakers: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-pKSdIV...TS-G6845R.html
And get these adapters: https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...a-72-5600.html

drsubie

Funny, I just replaced all 4 Sony OEM speakers w/ those exact same ones yesterday... Sound was much MUCH improved, able to go louder, a little bit more bass. Only thing is that the treble in the front cab is a bit 'too bright' I had to turn down the EQ treble a bit. Might also have something to do with the fact that the OEM fronts did not have a tweeter component, presumably since the OEM tweeter is up in the A pillar. I assume that the OEM crossover is still sending high freq to the tweeters still, but the bottom speaker tweeter is still putting out some highs, making it a little bright...

I used the Metra Ford adapters, cut the ends off and screwed down the bare wire to the Infinitys. I also used some Boom Mat speaker baffles, mainly for moisture protection in the doors. It did make for a very tight fit though...

Can't say enough about this upgrade so far--best $200 I've spent (and ~1.5h of my labor).

Also, if you haven't already, look at door panel removal vids on Youtube--Stage 3 Motorsports has a good one. Only tips I might add are:

--window control panels are a pain to pry up--feels like you're gonna break them
--don't need to remove the door handle from the wire like some videos show--just remove the panel itself and leave it in one piece dangling (like the Stage 3 video)
--when putting the panel back, I found it was easiest to remove the plastic door lock insert on the panel--makes it easier to line up the door lock through the door panel hole (you'll see what I mean)...

MikeMcC

Great advise, I really appreciate it! I got my adapters wired up to the speakers now, and I'm planning on tackling the install in the morning.

sparky kilowatt

drsubie, what size Boom Mats did you go with? 5x7 or 6x8? Slim oval or standard oval?

drsubie

I went with the slim fit 6x8--though I'm no expert on stereo installs, these were still a tight fit and I had some bunching up at the lips to the opening. I also cut out an opening at the bottom to allow the speaker wire to go through. Maybe I installed them wrong and have to go back, but they sound fine (I haven't done any A to B sound comparisons). Mainly got them to protect the top of the speaker from water...

sparky kilowatt

Thanks, Crutchfiled advised "standard oval" and told me to cut a small circular hole in them to fish the wire through.
When you say "tight fit" was it just getting them to stuff in the opening in the door?