kds083

Just wanted some other thoughts on this. Short back story...just had timing chain fixed by local ford dealership in Nov. 2019 for $2,500. Ok no big deal I expected it at some point with it being a common issue, have dealt with some of the other quirks of the Gen 1 3.5L like spark plug gaping/cracked ceramics and water in the intercooler. Since the repair I have only put 2K miles on it and everything seemed to be running fine. Last week driving down the highway the rpm's instantly jump and I start loosing speed, low oil pressure light comes on, and I coast to the side of the highway...all happened in less than 15 seconds with no warning. After pulling over the engine over temp light comes on and engine won't turn over (figured right away it was seized), no fluids anywhere to be found on the pavement, was going to check the oil right then and a state trooper pulled up and asked me to get back in the truck and he would call a tow company for me. Truck gets towed back to the local dealer and finally got a response back. See below...I know a mechanical failure could happen, but I have not really seen many reports of oil pump failures. Disappointed that the truck only has a total of 73.5K miles on it. After dumping $2,500 into it in 5 months ago, thoughts and what would you do? Second opinion, re-manufactured engine, or walk away from this thing and start a new truck payment?

Dealer Response

So we got the truck in the shop this morning to check it out and found that the motor is seized up. We checked and the oil level was full. We pulled the passenger valve cover and found that the top of the engine is bone dry. The timing components are all there and nothing looks broken or loose. We then drained the oil and it did not have any metal chunks in it. We attempted to turn the engine over by hand and it will not move. By the looks of everything we can see it looks like possibly the oil pump failed and the engine was run dry at the top until it seized up. The only thing I would recommend would be engine replacement at this time. A reman motor from Ford installed would be about $7700. Let me know what you want to do.

Barry_Vee

Given a choice of paying $7700 for engine replacement on a low mileage truck vs paying 10% of sale price on a new one to the State of California my choice would be repair.

I’m guessing tax, license, delivery, and Dealer’s “fees” on a $50k truck here are $5000-$6000. That blue sky money will go a long way to covering the repair bill.

Add the additional value lost trading off a non-running vehicle to the blue sky money makes repair even more acceptable to me.

My 2011 has twice the miles of yours. I would put a remanufactured engine in it. That engine has a pretty darn good warranty too doesn’t it?

spyder982

lol I'd tell the state trooper to get back in his car and mind his own business. I'd want to check the oil myself or with the dealer especially after they had the engine open. been screwed over by too many dealers to take their word for it.

i think it would depend on your own financial situation, preferences and how fed up you are with the truck You could easily buy a used engine and install yourself and trade it in. or if you have the cash and like the truck, even through its abysmal failures at such low mileage, buy a re-manufactured engine and drive it at least another 75k miles. If it were me, i'd buy a used engine, do the swap and sell it.

MonkeyWrench

I know this thread is a little old but I am in the same boat only I still owe about 17k on my 2012. I had all timing chain components and phasers changed less than 3k ago and while climbing a snowy hill a couple weeks back the truck just shut off and flashed the low oil pressure warning and was overheated. I had it towed to ford and they said it wasn't worth tearing into the engine to see what failed and that I just need to replace the engine then quoted me 7700-9700 which was heartbreaking. I am a very curious person though I really need to know what happened lol its driving me crazy! Currently I am looking for a used engine to drop in myself or else ill be 17k underwater but I was just wondering what you ended up doing and if you figured out exactly what happened? I haven't had the chance to dig into mine yet but the oil is full and I seen no holes or fluids anywhere so I have no idea what happened and am just in awe at this entire situation..

Scott in PA

I bought a '13 for $21,000 with 99k miles in Sept '20. The body is virtually rust-free, even underneath. 2500 miles later the timing chain went, and $4200 later it runs great. I had an indie shop do it, I don't wrench. They highly recommended I replace the oil and water pumps, which I did. It was an extra $350 in parts and hardly any additional labor. They also cleaned out the little bit of sludge they found.

Owing $17k on a 2012 sounds like you financed 100% of the truck when you bought it. Never the best option. But now you are faced with potentially throwing good money after bad.

Can you tow it to an indie for a more complete diagnosis? If humans can get second opinions, why not trucks?

You have to assess the condition of the rest of the truck, from tranny to brakes to suspension to rust. If it looks like the other systems are up to another 50k miles, then go for it. Where else can you plunk down $7700 and end with what you have?

MonkeyWrench

I bought it in May of 2020 for 17 and after taxes and fees it was closer to 20k but the truck is in immaculate condition besides a small tear in the drivers seat and now the engine but I do love this truck I had the chain and phasers done under warranty immediately after buying it but where I screwed up was impulsively buying from a shady used car lot that refused to fix issues covered under warranty. Im in the process of taking legal action but thats a whole other story. While the truck was in the shop for timing chain I told them to replace the water and oil pump as well but I have no idea if they really did. I got the truck towed to my house today and got it started and it sounds horrible throwing timing codes, misfire codes and oddly a O2 low voltage code. The oil pressure gauge is showing nothing but its full so I have no idea what caused the failure yet. Ive been searching for other independent shops and exploring all other options since cause the dealership wasn't to friendly or helpful about this whole situation to begin with. More than likely I will end up finding a reman engine and drop it in myself with the help of a couple friends but regardless this whole situation has been a nightmare man I love this truck but I haven't even had it 8 months and the motor grenades on me. Its a hard *** lesson learned on my part but moral of the story buy from a reputable dealership with a good warranty lol.

Screw12

I just made a post and now I am getting worried because I may be in the same situation here. I just got mine in April and still owe ~17k

doanster

I too have a 2011 f-150 supercrew with 3.5 ecoboost - While under a 7 year extended warranty and around the 25K mark i experienced several events n a short period of time where i would be driving and come into a parking lot or stopping at a light -my oil pressure would drop to 0 for a few seconds and then bounce right back up again. Took it into dealer - they thought it might have to do with timing chain - as they explored they found that all the bearings upper and lower had excessive wear and were starting to wipe. I required a new engine - no explanation as to what went wrong but assume it was oil pump failing. Have over 30k on new motor without any issues. One thing i would caution - if getting a ford dealer to do repair is they are on the clock - so i found that in my case they rushed things - crushed some aftermarket wiring that was run, etc - if you have a shop in your area that specializes in fords or fleet vehicles - i would get a second opinion and or price quote from them - they want your business so will be more interested in doing a good job to gain your trust and return business.