I have a '13 KR w/ the 3.5L EB. I was reading about the different generations of the 3.5L EB engine on Full Race, and it sounds like an intercooler should have been the first thing I did to my truck. It has 130k miles on it. I bought the truck at about 55k miles and within a few thousand miles I replaced the exhaust w/ a Magnaflow system, it has an aFe intake, and I have an SCT X4 programmer w/ their tune for 91 octane, no towing.

I am a value-driven person, and what is the best value for adding an intercooler? I would prefer something I could install myself. I don't mind being patient. If the answer is "wait until so-and-so has their black Friday sale and by X", I can do that. Additionally, I am not looking to turn my truck into any kind of street racer. It is too big and heavy. But I wouldn't mind adding a bit more power as long as it doesn't hurt the longevity of the engine, and it sounds like an intercooler is the way to go.

While I am in there, do I need to change the down/charge pipes? Is it worth it?

I suspect I am asking a question that has been asked before. Is there a "How to choose an intercooler" thread? Or "What upgrades should I do to my truck, and why" thread someone could point me at?

I would appreciate thoughts and insight on this.

 

My first suggestion.

Get a book or pda of a book called maximum boost by Corky Bell.

Once you understand exactly how turbo vehicles operate, then you'll be able to understand how and which parts do what, and why these parts benefit the vehicles.

After you get that done, the world is your playground and the rabbit hole gets deep and expensive real quick

Now you most likely are referring to the condensation issue

So youtube and Google will help.

Short answer, you don't need a new intercooler or upgraded one. At least not now

 

From my understanding if you’re going to tow a lot with this vehicle than yes I would absolutely upgrade the intercooler but if you hardly ever tow then I don’t think it’s much of a concern.
Best way to tell if you need one is to take the truck out on a hot day and drive for a while. Once the truck is warmed up good use your SCT X4 to monitor your IATs in different scenarios (cruising on the highway, sitting at a stop light, 0-60 pull) and see what numbers you get. If the IATs are a little too high then you’d know if it’d be worth buying a intercooler or not.

 

Instead of a intercooler, do a thermostat upgrade.

All a intercooler is, is air to air heat exchanger.

If you're really concerned get a air to liquid exchangers that most superchargers use.

 

I don’t know about the F150s, but on my 87 911 Turbo, I had a huge intercooler and on one dyno run, it would get warm enough you couldn’t keep your hand on it, and after a couple runs, it would melt a bag of ice.

Does anybody use a water or methanol injector on F150’s? Or is that overkill for the street?

 

I know of a few running meth.
mostly hellion twin turbo 5.0
I run meth on my 89 Skyline GT-R @ 1165 hp 938 tq.

Ran meth on my 98 eagle talon with a 2.3 stroker and 20 g turbo @ 468 hp

 

being trapped over the engine like that must really add to heat soak and when not going down the road probably impossible to get enough air flow to keep it cold. These trucks having them way out by the bumper helps. As long as you're moving they seem to work pretty well for a stock/stockish setup.

I bought my CVFAB on a whim when they were on sale, I should have done more logging before swapping them tbh.

 

"maximum boost by Corky Bell." is a great intro and discussion on turbocharging, but is a bit out of date. Newer electronically controlled engines use a variety of sensors to constantly rewrite the tune while the engine is in operation. The knock sensors largely monitor and signal the ECU to alter the spark timing curve. This is also affected by the intake manifold temperature. This is where the bigger inter-cooler can make a difference. When the IAT2 (intake manifold map sensor) rises to 120 degrees the timing starts being pulled to reduce knock, reducing the power available and adding boost to compensate. Keeping airflow temperature below 120 helps keep the power up for a longer time (reduces heat soak). Most aftermarket ICs are larger and better at removing the heat from the airflow. The choice is yours, stock works but is limited by size and cost, aftermarket ICs work better and maintain a lower air charge temp longer.
I monitor IAT2, airflow, spark advance, vacuum/boost regularly and the difference is displayed and noticed in driving. I'm using a CVF Titan IC.


Stock is silver with black plastic ends, CVF is all black and significantly larger. While I consider a tune the best cost for results, my second favorite in the same scale is the Titan IC. While adding no power is is felt compared to the stock unit which quickly heat soaks and strangles the power delivery. KM

 

crazy how much bigger the IC is on a 2012

 

Thanks km.

Im not up to date on the f150 2.7 or 3.5's most of my knowledge is based on 2010 or older turbo/supercharged vehicles.