BRvalley

Hello,

I'll start off by saying I'm a brand new member here, big into fishing and hunting, have owned 2 rangers for the past 10 yrs, nothing fancy just 3" body lift and 33's

I did try the search function to look up regearing but couldn't find what I was looking for, I'll keep trying, I'm sure i'm beating a dead horse here with a newbie question.

2012 f150 fx4, 5.0L, auto, 3.73...got it lifted last October with a 6" bds kit and 35's, about 14k on that over the winter, but I'm about to start towing my boat and just got a quad

it's not a daily driver (but it will be in 3 months when I lose my work truck)...I tow a boat that is 3300 lbs fully loaded, tow weekly, average is 300-500km most weekends, with several long trips a year, upwards of 2000-3000 km

I expect that some trips will involve the quad in the box and towing the boat.

I'm 50/50 high way and offroad/FSR's/hunting, live in northern BC

I've done some google research and coming across lots and lots of contradicting opinions. Do I need to regear? If so, should I do 4.11 or 4.56? and what cost should I expect when asking for quotes?

If I don't need to regear, I'd rather spend the money on getting rid of those rear blocks and adding air bags...but I don't want to eat up my tranny in 30k either, I'll do whatever is required sooner

Thank you for any feedback and help...if I've posted in the wrong section just let me know where I should repost.

Cheers.

CLABRO

You have a 6" lift & 35" tires, but how about your wheels?

I would never suggest regearing with just a 6" lift & 35" tires honestly. It's just not worth it and especially not worth it if you have to pay a premium like some do to have them installed. I've heard of some paying $800-$1,200 just for the install. For 35" tires that's just not worth it to me. Maybe 37s, but not 35s.

Granted, you are towing, and I'm not sure how much of a difference that will make, but everyone that I know has never regared going with 35s

Maybe some more will chime in who tow more frequently

BRvalley

rims are 18"...tires are 325/65...if I remember right that's 34.5 x 12.5

I got the Dunlop fierce tires, cheapest tire at the time but more aggressive then I need...my next set won't be so aggressive, back to an AT, duratracs again mostly likely

fishbones182

If you decide to regear go with the 4.56 not allot of difference between 3.73 and 4.11 with the tires.

Allen K

i have a 2013 f150 fx4 with a 6 inch lift and 35's. Im getting all of my stuff installed tomorrow, but im going with the 4.10/4.11 but im also moving from a 3.55. And this is so i can possibly go up to 37's in the near future. I have also heard moving from 3.55 to 3.73, or 3.73 to 4.10 is not worth it as its not that big of a jump. if my truck had come stock with 3.73 i would be leaving them. Mind you money wise...i went with yukon gears and a mag hytec cover and parts alone cost me almost $1300 and the install is gonna run about $1200 with oil. $2500....id stick with the 3.73. Also the company doing my install is called randys ring and pinion and they are the best out here...there my two cents : )

Arod

I know it's not exactly the same due to it being a different truck, but on my 2001 z71 I had a 6" lift with a 3.73 gear ratio. I pulled a true 35x12.50 with no issues. I also towed plenty with it and it always pulled great even with heavy loads. I wouldn't worry about regearing at all in your case I would spend a little money on a custom tune that will help and be a lot cheaper than gears.

uzikaduzi

with your new tires, you're effectively at a final ratio of around 3.4ish but your 35's are likely much wider and heavier so it likely "feels" worse than that. 4.10's would return it back to a stock ratio; however, it wouldn't feel stock (and besides the fact 1 size gear size change is rarely worth it) because of the additional rolling mass of the larger, wider, and heavier 35's. so 4.56's would be where i'd look.

now you do have a 6 speed transmission with a fairly low first gear so it might not make much of a difference in the feel so long as your shift points are correct and 3.31's are a factory option.

nix150

I'm running 4" on 35's with 3:55 gears. I took the truck into the dealer and had them calibrate to the Raptor settings. This corrected my speedo and shift points. The Raptor runs very close to 35's and this change help a lot - more than I thought it would. This is the first thing anyone should do IMHO. It's free, and for me, it made a noticeable change. Prior to doing this, the truck was a bit of a dog - mostly due to early shifting - now it knows there are bigger tires...so it's shifting appropriately and the speedo is dead-on. Because I don't tow much, and my truck is a bit of a pavement queen, I decided to save the <$2K.

rkaminky

2011 5.0 with 3.73 stock.

I tow a 3400# (empty) enclosed trailer that has massive wind drag. The first time I towed with my 34.8" tires up and over the Eisenhower tunnel it was miserable. I was either in too high a gear or too low. Not fun at all. Could barely hold 55 mph up the grade. This was with a 5* tune for tire size and shift points.

Regeared to 4.56 and could not be happier. I can now pull the ike hill with 3 snowmobiles and 3 guys at 70-75 mph in 4th gear at about 4000 rpm (peak torque).

The 4.56s make a huge difference driving around town too. The truck pulls so much harder. Squeeks the tires on takeoff and 1-2 shift and sometimes 2-3 if conditions are right.

As for highway driving, I can drive at 75-80 and be around 2600 rpm. I did notice my fuel economy went down, but I blame my heavy foot for that, obviously the gears dont help fuel economy.

If you tow and have 35s, I highly recommend 4.56s.

schissler

I would go 4.56s.

I have a 5.0L with 3.55s and 33.2" tires and I'm planning on going to a 4.10... Can't stand how sluggish the truck is now.