Hi all
​​​​​so after about a 200km drive home from the cottage in holiday traffic I backed into my driveway and immediately smelt burning brakes when I got out. It was coming from my rear driver's side (very hot to the touch).
So once it cooled down I took it apart and everything seemed OK as far as the slides/ pins/pads being free and lubed. The rotors and pads are a bit chewed up though. The piston at first was a little stiff but did go back in with some force.
Today I was beating myself up a little as I didnt find any obvious causes so I jacked it up again and spun the wheel while in neutral.
I did notice some light grinding scraping sounds coming from the hub. So I am know wondering if it is something with the parking brake (I never use) or maybe a wheel bearing? I did notice that there is a very small amount of in and out play on the wheel/axle which I thought maybe normal but when I tried the other side there was none.
I'm really hoping not wheel bearing.. I never pulled the rotor off to check the parking braked assembly but is it possible something happened in there even though I never touch it being afraid it will hang up.
Guess should mention 14 SCREW 4x4 3.5EB, 3.51 elocker rear
Appreciate any thoughts...
thanks

 

My first guess would be a soft line failing internally and that’s why the piston seemed stuck at first I. I would think with a flash light you should be able to tell if one or both pads drag with the wheel off

 

I had this exact problem with the same wheel a month ago. I decided before I dug into it I was going put rear pads on as it needed them, so once they arrived I tore into the brake job. I did the pass side rear first, no issues. Then the drivers side, I noticed the piston pushed in 2 to 3 times harder than the other side, that's with the bleeders open, So I decided to buy a new caliper for the driver side from Rock auto. I think it was about $70, I have been driving it now for 2 weeks and I touch the rim's after every trip and it no longer gets hot. Changing it out was a lot easier than I thought it would be, just 1 issue, I was also going to replace the rubber line and I couldn't get the new one to stop leaking so I put the old one back on. The line was only $11 so not really worth sending back, you win some, you lose some.

 

Seems to be a trend. My 2014's rear drivers brake was dragging and ruined my Powerstop brake set. Had to replace. I need to check to see if it is still dragging before I ruin another set of brakes.

AK4wheeler

 

ya caliper even though you can move it doesn't mean when it comes back out when brake it will release again...had this type of situation on a lot of trucks...like some rust builds up or some junk gets in there

 

So I thought I freed everything up but still having problems. Soo I got new rotors, pads, calipers, flex lines and parking brake shoes and hardware.
Planning to get at it tomorrow.
question is I was looking at the factory flex line and i dont see a way to separate it from the hardliners?? Do you have to cut it and replace?
Thanks for any help

 

that picture is where it separates. Id go ahead and start soaking in PB blaster or similar. When you take it off that hook you'll see you put a wrench on the left side to hold the soft line and a wrench on the right side to unthread the hard line from the soft line. Those use flare nut wrenches, sometimes a standard wrench fits or you can use an adjustable just be careful not to round it off, especially looking at the current surface condition