montanaman

Heat works wonders if you have a buddy with an oxy-acetylene torch, and warm it up good in the center, between the studs.Good luck.

techrep

iTrader: (1)

Did you get it ?

beaker80

This worked for me when I did front rotors (original) a few years ago. Mine were so tight. Nothing worked and I needed an alignment after using the BFH method (unsuccessfully) in an earlier attempt. Just remember to go in small increments with the jacking bolt and rotate the disc.

PerryB

I know there are on the front, and I'm almost sure there is on the rear. I've dealt with some tough ones before, and a multiple strategy works well in that situation. Soak it with PB Blast and let it penetrate for a while. Screw the push-bolts in tight, heat it up (carefully) with a torch and whack it with a hammer. It'll go.

techrep

iTrader: (1)

After removal and before new installation add some anti seize to where the rotor meets the hub.. avoid this next time.

Eric M

You just got to hit it harder. I assume you are replacing it? Break out the sledge.

Worst case, cut it some and then hit it with a hammer, it'll break along the cut. Cast iron is brittle.

rrp0968

Be careful on the fronts with the BFH if you have EPAS. You will be buying a new steering rack if you do not power it down first.

wojowojo16

heat and BFH...

morehousej

for the rears, did you pop out the rubber grommet and use a flat screwdriver to spin the park brake adjuster wheel to back off the e-brake pads?
there is sometimes a lip that catches the pads, even with the park brake off.

Vin

+1 for this