Raptor Rear Tow Hooks on F150
#71
Senior Member
I have to tell you. The bolt on method scares me. It sure seams like if you give a good yank (your truck or another stuck), the bolts have a good chance of shearing off. Then you have the heavy hook and shackle flying.
Personally, I think you are safer with a hitch mounted shackle. http://www.4wheelparts.com/Winches-W...pn=S%2fB29312B
Personally, I think you are safer with a hitch mounted shackle. http://www.4wheelparts.com/Winches-W...pn=S%2fB29312B
#72
Senior Member
I have to tell you. The bolt on method scares me. It sure seams like if you give a good yank (your truck or another stuck), the bolts have a good chance of shearing off. Then you have the heavy hook and shackle flying.
Personally, I think you are safer with a hitch mounted shackle. http://www.4wheelparts.com/Winches-W...pn=S%2fB29312B
Personally, I think you are safer with a hitch mounted shackle. http://www.4wheelparts.com/Winches-W...pn=S%2fB29312B
#73
Senior Member
#74
Senior Member
Back from the local "spring shop." 10 minutes and $18 later, 2 perfectly sized U-bolts. Took almost 5 minutes to bolt them on. I'll shoot some paint on them when it warms up a little. All mine will ever get used for is pulling a stuck zero turn mower or compact tractor. If anything this attachment method is heavier than what Ford uses to bolt them on the front. The weak point would be the hitch and that's made to tow a pretty heavy trailer.
That sheet metal part on mine sticks up a little higher than the top of the hitch tube--I think it would interfere with plates on mine. There must be some variation there.
That sheet metal part on mine sticks up a little higher than the top of the hitch tube--I think it would interfere with plates on mine. There must be some variation there.
#75
Senior Member
Back from the local "spring shop." 10 minutes and $18 later, 2 perfectly sized U-bolts. Took almost 5 minutes to bolt them on. I'll shoot some paint on them when it warms up a little. All mine will ever get used for is pulling a stuck zero turn mower or compact tractor. If anything this attachment method is heavier than what Ford uses to bolt them on the front. The weak point would be the hitch and that's made to tow a pretty heavy trailer.
That sheet metal part on mine sticks up a little higher than the top of the hitch tube--I think it would interfere with plates on mine. There must be some variation there.
That sheet metal part on mine sticks up a little higher than the top of the hitch tube--I think it would interfere with plates on mine. There must be some variation there.
#76
Senior Member
1/2" material, 2-1/2" wide (inside), 3-1/2"+ long outside. Guy made a comment to himself about 10 or 12" rods. I'm sure they loose a little in the bend but the length is perfect--no threads sticking out of the nut, no nut threads visible.
Grade 5. He told me he can't get grade 8 rods until 5/8".
Grade 5. He told me he can't get grade 8 rods until 5/8".
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Daniejw (11-13-2015)
#77
Senior Member
1/2" material, 2-1/2" wide (inside), 3-1/2"+ long outside. Guy made a comment to himself about 10 or 12" rods. I'm sure they loose a little in the bend but the length is perfect--no threads sticking out of the nut, no nut threads visible.
Grade 5. He told me he can't get grade 8 rods until 5/8".
Grade 5. He told me he can't get grade 8 rods until 5/8".
#78
Senior Member
From my install post ...
- no fabrication necessary.
- in-stock items at a local spring shop. *Co$t was $12 for the U-bolts, washers, and nuts.
- no fuss, no muss, less than 5minutes installation time.
A = ½"
B = 2-5/8"
C = 3½"
B = 2-5/8"
C = 3½"
#79
Senior Member
Just had those made, look exactly the same, $16
Giving everything a fresh coat of paint and clear, should have them on in a couple days.
Thanks for the help.
Giving everything a fresh coat of paint and clear, should have them on in a couple days.
Thanks for the help.
#80
Senior Member
I used the F150 OEM dogbone for the top strap and two Class 10.9 bolts to straddle the hitch cross member. Bolts are threaded in from the bottom (through the tow hook) up to the dogbone, alongside the front and rear of the 2.5" x 2.5" hitch cross member
What I used:
Tow hooks: (2) Ford Chrome tow hooks 9L3Z-17A954-B (eBay)
Dogbone: (2) Ford W712330-S441
Bolts: (4) Grainger Class 10.9, M12 x 1.75, 90mm #6AE33 (5 to a package, these happen to be coarse and they are a bit tight, but work nonetheless)
Split Lock Washers: (4) Lowes 12mm
Eye level with rear bumper
Rear quarter panel view
This is a tight fit with the bolts straddling the hitch cross member, but it can be done. In addition to pulling or being pulled out of a jam, the tow hooks serve as steps (black plastic tray below license plate is easily scratched when stepped upon, much like the plastic pads on the running boards) and bungee cord tie downs. $111 total. I'm also investing in tow straps as a nice thing to have, just in case. I just like the look, if for nothing else.
What I used:
Tow hooks: (2) Ford Chrome tow hooks 9L3Z-17A954-B (eBay)
Dogbone: (2) Ford W712330-S441
Bolts: (4) Grainger Class 10.9, M12 x 1.75, 90mm #6AE33 (5 to a package, these happen to be coarse and they are a bit tight, but work nonetheless)
Split Lock Washers: (4) Lowes 12mm
Eye level with rear bumper
Rear quarter panel view
This is a tight fit with the bolts straddling the hitch cross member, but it can be done. In addition to pulling or being pulled out of a jam, the tow hooks serve as steps (black plastic tray below license plate is easily scratched when stepped upon, much like the plastic pads on the running boards) and bungee cord tie downs. $111 total. I'm also investing in tow straps as a nice thing to have, just in case. I just like the look, if for nothing else.
Last edited by rohada; 02-18-2019 at 08:46 AM.
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Ahmed (04-25-2021)