Problem! window visor vents on 2011........
02-07-2013, 01:38 PM
#51
Old Thread, But I have some good info to pass on:
I had the same problem, It seems to be if you keep stuborning trying to put it up you can get them to stick. I used a panel removal tool to wedge in as I was installing to mimic the pressure from the window.
They also came with channel spacers.
I went with PUTCO in channel visors, they look just like the weathertechs but at a fraction of the price.
I had the same problem, It seems to be if you keep stuborning trying to put it up you can get them to stick. I used a panel removal tool to wedge in as I was installing to mimic the pressure from the window.
They also came with channel spacers.
I went with PUTCO in channel visors, they look just like the weathertechs but at a fraction of the price.
02-22-2013, 03:46 PM
#52
AVS is fine
I have ventvisors, bug shield, and door sill guards, all from AVS. Everything was in great shape out of the packaging, no scratches or extra plastic to trim, everything installed easily, and no wind noise when istalled. The door sill guards look WAY better than Ford's crappy OEM ones, which didn't even come on my XLT.
04-23-2013, 08:13 AM
#54
Senior Member/Vietnam Vet
I tried the EGRs first. They worked fine in the rear, but I had the bounce back in the front. Then I read that WeatherTech was aware of the problem and working on a new model for the late model F150s. I ordered a pair and the in-channel plastic was thinner than the ERG, and after seating for a few days, worked just fine.
04-23-2013, 09:39 AM
#55
I bought the EGR, retimed the windows, all done.
I'd be annoyed having to "work" so hard to install some plastic vent-visors. So I just did it right.
But let me tell you... reconnecting the battery and running back to the window switch by yourself can be quite funny to watch for the neighbors. . . especially without spilling any beer!
I'd be annoyed having to "work" so hard to install some plastic vent-visors. So I just did it right.
But let me tell you... reconnecting the battery and running back to the window switch by yourself can be quite funny to watch for the neighbors. . . especially without spilling any beer!
04-23-2013, 10:09 PM
#56
(A random northerner)
a previous poster pointed out that eventually his truck "forgot" that he had disabled the auto-up and reset back to what it was before. this also happened to my truck. it took a few months for it to happen. so just a heads up...
04-24-2013, 08:47 AM
#57
I didn't disable the auto-up feature (didn't know you could). I re-timed them so that it would know where "full up" really was. The battery's gone dead a couple of times since then (my own dumb parasitic drain while sitting for days)... still knows where up is. Mine is a 2012.
04-24-2013, 05:08 PM
#59
You may have issues with the auto roll up feature but you can correct this, well it worked for me. I had to do this three times before it quit auto roll down from the deflectors. This was taken from an earlier weathertech thread:
"I'm the product engineer for the window reg. It is difficult to tell, but the regulator has a soft stop feature, when you use express down, the regulator stops~ 40mm before mechanical stall, supposed to eliminate the thud at the bottom. If you use X-down, press the down switch 3 times in a row after it stops moving and it will go all the way down. Under normal circumstances, the window will go all the way down to its mechanical hard stall every 20 cycles to relearn where that position is, to compensate for wear over the life of the vehicle. This is true for closing as well, to an extent. If you de-initialize the system (one-touch becomes inactive) then re-initialize, the window motor will reset and should learn the characteristics of that door at the time it is initialized. The problem with the in-channel shades is that the window motor is not expecting to slow down at a different rate and reverses, thinking that the extra effort is an obstacle. If you re-initialize, it should see that the window slows down earlier/ at a different rate and will expect that behavior from that point on. The algorithm is a little more complicated than that, there are other things that it takes into account that could prevent it from working properly even if it is re-initialized."
"I'm the product engineer for the window reg. It is difficult to tell, but the regulator has a soft stop feature, when you use express down, the regulator stops~ 40mm before mechanical stall, supposed to eliminate the thud at the bottom. If you use X-down, press the down switch 3 times in a row after it stops moving and it will go all the way down. Under normal circumstances, the window will go all the way down to its mechanical hard stall every 20 cycles to relearn where that position is, to compensate for wear over the life of the vehicle. This is true for closing as well, to an extent. If you de-initialize the system (one-touch becomes inactive) then re-initialize, the window motor will reset and should learn the characteristics of that door at the time it is initialized. The problem with the in-channel shades is that the window motor is not expecting to slow down at a different rate and reverses, thinking that the extra effort is an obstacle. If you re-initialize, it should see that the window slows down earlier/ at a different rate and will expect that behavior from that point on. The algorithm is a little more complicated than that, there are other things that it takes into account that could prevent it from working properly even if it is re-initialized."
04-24-2013, 05:22 PM
#60
One Clean Machine
iTrader: (5)
Many of the brands out there have been Revised!
So you don't encounter the Bounce Back Issue! I have the revised AVS In-Channels, and have had no problems w/bounce back, or and wind noise!
I recommend them.
So you don't encounter the Bounce Back Issue! I have the revised AVS In-Channels, and have had no problems w/bounce back, or and wind noise! I recommend them.