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Problem at dealer - can't believe their finding and suggestion! Thoughts?

Old 10-21-2013, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by KP Texan
This is kind of funny, because I got this same message on my mft screen for the first time with my truck today. I attributed it to the fact that I left my radar detector on all weekend, so hopefully that was just the case with mine.
In your case I'd be likely to suspect that is your cause there.
Old 10-21-2013, 08:22 PM
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Not unheard of to get a bad batch of batteries, it's happened at a few of the shops I have worked in.


.
Old 10-21-2013, 08:34 PM
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Condescending ******. IMO.
Old 10-21-2013, 08:37 PM
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Did your truck have this problem before you installed the Amp Powerstep?
Old 10-21-2013, 10:04 PM
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We had a truck in the shop the other day with a charging system issue after replacing battery. Turns out the battery monitoring system had to be reset. It was a 13, not sure if the 11's had it but 12's do. It is an option, you may or may not have it.

From the owners manual

Battery Monitor System (If Equipped)

When a battery replacement is required, the battery should only be
replaced with a Ford recommended replacement battery which matches
the electrical requirements of the vehicle. After battery replacement,
or in some cases after charging the battery with the external charger,
the BMS requires eight hours of vehicle sleep time (key off with doors
closed) to relearn the new battery state of charge. Prior to relearning the
state of charge, the BMS may disable electrical features (to protect the
battery) earlier than normal.

/end

The dealer can also reset this with their IDS, but some do not know about it because it is fairly new, unless they've ran into it.
Old 10-21-2013, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by ruff rider
Did your truck have this problem before you installed the Amp Powerstep?
No, but they had been on the truck for a couple of months before this started showing up. I should add I called up AMP earlier and they are sending me a new control box just in case there is something odd there. The tech I spoke with said there should be no more than 10-12 milliamps draw from the battery with the boards retracted and doors closed.

I did this evening check my posi-taps to make sure everything was secure as well.
Old 10-21-2013, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by black09stx
We had a truck in the shop the other day with a charging system issue after replacing battery. Turns out the battery monitoring system had to be reset. It was a 13, not sure if the 11's had it but 12's do. It is an option, you may or may not have it.

From the owners manual

Battery Monitor System (If Equipped)

When a battery replacement is required, the battery should only be
replaced with a Ford recommended replacement battery which matches
the electrical requirements of the vehicle. After battery replacement,
or in some cases after charging the battery with the external charger,
the BMS requires eight hours of vehicle sleep time (key off with doors
closed) to relearn the new battery state of charge. Prior to relearning the
state of charge, the BMS may disable electrical features (to protect the
battery) earlier than normal.

/end

The dealer can also reset this with their IDS, but some do not know about it because it is fairly new, unless they've ran into it.
with this info, wouldn't it have re-learned itself the night following the replacement when it would have sat maybe 10 hours or longer?
Old 10-21-2013, 10:40 PM
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Only if you disconnect the battery when parking, waiting until everything powers down, 10 or so minutes? then reconnect and wait the eight hours, I think. Not sure, we reset at shop. When you drive it home and the BMS is learning the charge of the battery, could through it off and possibly try to charge it when the truck is off creating a very high draw. Just a thought, not sure.
Old 10-21-2013, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Damn Dirty Ape
I did this evening check my posi-taps to make sure everything was secure as well.

Please tell me you aren't talking about these electrical nightmares,



If so then you need to get rid of those damned things and either directly connect with crimp connectors or at the very least soldering and heat shrink tubing would be best.

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Last edited by RLXXI; 10-21-2013 at 10:56 PM.
Old 10-21-2013, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Rnlcomp
Please tell me you aren't talking about these electrical nightmares,



If so then you need to get rid of those damned things and either directly connect with crimp connectors or at the very least soldering and heat shrink tubing would be best.

.
These:

http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html

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