Power Tailgate Lock - help
12-21-2013, 01:20 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Power Tailgate Lock - help
Hey guys I need your help. I just finished installing a power lock on my tailgate. Since I also have power locks on my ARE cap (wires already run) rather than running wire all the way back to the cab to tie into the power lock system again I just used a splice connector to tie the power tailgate lock into the existing wires for the power locks on my cap. Tailgate lock works fine but now my cap lock does not work at all. Any ideas?
12-21-2013, 01:46 PM
#2
Senior Member
did you use a connector like the pic... go back and check the connections.... i hate these connectors.. if they arent done right they may cut the wire or overtime they rot cause they are exposed to the weather..
12-21-2013, 03:56 PM
#6
Member
Hey guys I need your help. I just finished installing a power lock on my tailgate. Since I also have power locks on my ARE cap (wires already run) rather than running wire all the way back to the cab to tie into the power lock system again I just used a splice connector to tie the power tailgate lock into the existing wires for the power locks on my cap. Tailgate lock works fine but now my cap lock does not work at all. Any ideas?
Solution #1: Run separate wires for the tailgate solenoid.
Solution #2: Replace the existing wiring with larger size wire. For instance replace size 22 with size 12.
Solution #3: Find a 12 volt source at the rear, like the 12 volts to charge the trailer battery (in the 7 pin trailer hitch) and connect a small relay that draws almost no current to the cap wire and use the relay to switch the tailgate solenoid.
#3 will involve the least wiring. #2 may be the easiest, because it will be really easy to replace the existing wires, by tying the new wires to the existing ones and use the existing ones to pull the new ones through. If the cabling method will allow this. But even #1 is easy because the frame is so large and empty it's very easy to string wire through from the tailgate to the cab.
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Project BLUE (12-21-2013)
12-21-2013, 04:44 PM
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Yes the cap lock worked previously and I think your right since the tailgate lock is wired in and gets juice before the cap lock. Was hoping to take the wiring shortcut on this one but I guess not. Thanks!
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12-21-2013, 04:51 PM
#8
Member
Thread Starter
I've seen reports that the wire size is adequate for the cap by itself, but when you add another solenoid for the tailgate, the voltage drop increases from marginally just enough voltage to operate the solenoid to not quite enough. Although both solenoids might be "12 volt" one might operate ok with only 8 volts, but the other one quits working at 9 volts.
Solution #1: Run separate wires for the tailgate solenoid.
Solution #2: Replace the existing wiring with larger size wire. For instance replace size 22 with size 12.
Solution #3: Find a 12 volt source at the rear, like the 12 volts to charge the trailer battery (in the 7 pin trailer hitch) and connect a small relay that draws almost no current to the cap wire and use the relay to switch the tailgate solenoid.
#3 will involve the least wiring. #2 may be the easiest, because it will be really easy to replace the existing wires, by tying the new wires to the existing ones and use the existing ones to pull the new ones through. If the cabling method will allow this. But even #1 is easy because the frame is so large and empty it's very easy to string wire through from the tailgate to the cab.
Solution #1: Run separate wires for the tailgate solenoid.
Solution #2: Replace the existing wiring with larger size wire. For instance replace size 22 with size 12.
Solution #3: Find a 12 volt source at the rear, like the 12 volts to charge the trailer battery (in the 7 pin trailer hitch) and connect a small relay that draws almost no current to the cap wire and use the relay to switch the tailgate solenoid.
#3 will involve the least wiring. #2 may be the easiest, because it will be really easy to replace the existing wires, by tying the new wires to the existing ones and use the existing ones to pull the new ones through. If the cabling method will allow this. But even #1 is easy because the frame is so large and empty it's very easy to string wire through from the tailgate to the cab.
12-21-2013, 08:23 PM
#9
Where is the cap pulling the signal? If it's the same wire you'll have the same problem.
Disconnect the tailgate lock and see if the cap works. Chances are you'll find the problem when you do.
Disconnect the tailgate lock and see if the cap works. Chances are you'll find the problem when you do.
12-22-2013, 12:41 AM
#10
Member
Thread Starter
My ARE cap installer pulled from the passenger side kick plate (front). Should I assume those same wires run through the driver side as well so I can pull from there? If I cant then I am not sure what to do. I don't know electrical wiring enough to do what Legend listed as solution #3. Maybe it's just time to call my buddy who is an electrical engineer...