Power sliding rear window cable snapped and is binding in motor
 

Upon closing my sliding rear window last week, I heard a POP as it finished closing. Turns out, the cable itself didn't snap, but the black plastic piece that attached the cable to the bottom glass frame (slide) broke off.

Now when I operate the switch back and forth, I can feel the loose cable moving as I hold it, but very reluctantly, as if the cable is twisted and binding around the wheel of the motor.

I assume that I'll need to replace that black bottom glass frame (slide), along with perhaps the cable(s?) and motor (or just the worn motor wheel if available, the motor is still operating fine)

Can anybody point me in the right direction on the best place to get the parts I'll need, and where to find instructions on the replacement process.

Thanks for your help, F150 brothers! :D

Factory shop manual http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdi...=productdetail

Probably the only place to get the parts you need is either the dealer or a salvage yard.
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Had this same exact thing happen to mine last month. It broke in the same location as yours. Luckily i still had warranty until 100k. Dealer had to replace the whole back window and assembly. I don't know why they had too though, seems like a waste of money but i wasn't complaining.

Any rear window issues seem to result in complete replacement. I think you may find that individual replacement parts are not available (new)

The motor (with cables) is obtainable in good used condition for under $100. If there is a way to reattach that broken tab which attaches the cable to the lower sliding window frame, I'd be all set.

Suggestions? JB Weld? Gorilla Glue? I imagine it would be a difficult task to reattach it without removing the whole window. Pretty tight spot to work.

Ideas are appreciated! :)

To get to that piece. You will have to remove the plastic channel above the sliding window. The window itself will lift up and can slide it out from the bottom. You will have to angle the bottom of the glass inside the truck. The glass will slide out. The track or channel the glass sits in will be accessible now.

Hope this helps you.

I had the same exact problem about a year ago..

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...40ce3ba76.jpeg

So I got one for $100 like someone mentioned off eBay.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...4788c04ca.jpeg

There are two screws holding the cable in (one on each side) that you can't get to with the window in. But if you have a spot weld bit, it makes the perfect size hole to access them...


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...7ee460ed8.jpeg


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...b0343b87d.jpeg

Then, for the plastic part of the window track that broke causing the cable to loosen tangle, I used a quick setting jb weld to "weld" the new cable to the window track...


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...c8e5cb6fc0.jpg


Then just make sure you keep it lubed up and free of dirt so you don't get too much tension/friction on the cable again (mine had a lot of dirt in the track which I assume slowed the window up causing the plastic to give)... All of this was done with the window in and you can't see the holes or repair job... Hope that helps.

-Chris

What s ia spot weld bit?

Harbor freight item #95343, you can see it on my drill in the pictures above... They are used to cut out spot welds when doing body repair. Either drill a small pilot hole in the center of the spot you want to cut out or punch a little indention and then you can cut just through the metal you need to without going any further. You might be able to use a big drill bit to drill a large enough hole to access the screws but, you could potentially drill into the screw, stripping it. I like the control that the spot weld cutters provide.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...c0a5fb0e3.jpeg

All the above will work fine ........

IMO, any drill bit large enough to drill a hole to access and remove the 2 screws can be used. I believe the screws are Philips head so you don't want to over drill and mess the screw heads up. (I do like the spot weld bit and had never heard of it b4 either)

The plastic part you need to attach the cables to at the bottom of the center window/glass is Ford # 4L3Z-15422B68-AA , currently $11.71 at Tascaparts.com (it's called "GUIDE" or "FILLER")
http://www.tascaparts.com/auto-parts...ware-back-scat

Here's the diagram ..... it's not part of the window frame assembly, it's part of the cable motor/regulator system (#4 in the diagram below):

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...ca489a999d.png


I had previously had a problem with my motor/cable assembly (#5 above) and ordered it from Tasca.

I took my truck to a local auto glass shop that I use to have them install. They got the old one out and new one in...... except the plastic piece /GUIDE that the cable attaches to broke during the install. I thought we were headed to the salvage yard unless I wanted to buy an entire power sliding window assembly for about $600.

I found this part/piece "GUIDE" mentioned online in another forum/thread last night. I ordered my "GUIDE" this AM from my local Ford dealer for about $18 (including tax).

Tuesday or Wednesday I have the glass shop pull the center window and replace the GUIDE, attach the cables and I should be in business.

Hope this helps!!!

NOTE: I have also read where others have had intermittent motor problems. Sometimes it works.... sometimes not. Or, opens but won't close. This problem is usually the switch. The brass/metal contacts get burnt from arcing. You can simply remove the switch and disassemble, clean the contacts, and possibly adjust the long metal actuator. Reassemble and all should be good. For those that need more info this is a good video I found on youtube (this is the 4 switch drivers side e-window switch console..... but... the same switch is used for the power sliding rear window and disassembly is essentially the same for this switch):