oil/coolant leak from turbo?
#1
Thread Starter
oil/coolant leak from turbo?
2013 FX4 Ecoboost 68k miles. it’s a city truck, low miles for a 9yr truck.
for the past year or so i’ve had a small coolant leak. i think it’s coming from the reservoir hose. i guess the common leak but never see any on the ground on that side.
just recently i had a wet spot on the passenger side. didn’t seem like it was oil but i did replace the vacuum pump a week ago. the wet spot still shows up in the morning. i put a pan out and found it’s coolant.
i want to say it’s coming from the passenger turbos but unsure if there’s other issues. there’s a burning smell when the heater turns on. the fan doesn’t turn on but it does heat up and can smell something burning.
i attached photos. i’m going to pressure test the coolant this coming week. any insights?
i see some oil seeping but feel it’s normal? the newly installed vacuum pump has an oil droplet from the bottom, maybe the valve cover gasket also?
my first oil change from royal purple all its life to pennzoil ultra platinum a few months ago has my conspiracies going crazy.
thanks for any insight.
for the past year or so i’ve had a small coolant leak. i think it’s coming from the reservoir hose. i guess the common leak but never see any on the ground on that side.
just recently i had a wet spot on the passenger side. didn’t seem like it was oil but i did replace the vacuum pump a week ago. the wet spot still shows up in the morning. i put a pan out and found it’s coolant.
i want to say it’s coming from the passenger turbos but unsure if there’s other issues. there’s a burning smell when the heater turns on. the fan doesn’t turn on but it does heat up and can smell something burning.
i attached photos. i’m going to pressure test the coolant this coming week. any insights?
i see some oil seeping but feel it’s normal? the newly installed vacuum pump has an oil droplet from the bottom, maybe the valve cover gasket also?
my first oil change from royal purple all its life to pennzoil ultra platinum a few months ago has my conspiracies going crazy.
thanks for any insight.
#2
Senior Member
I would get some brake clean and spray those jiffy fittings on the turbo to get em cleaned up then keep re-checking them. Theres one on the inside toward the motor as pictured and one on top of the turbo. The o-rings in those seals can go and they start leaking coolant. Looking at the condition of those metal lines I wouldn't be surprised.
Proper fix is to pull the turbo, replace both cooling lines and all 4 jiffy fittings, the one behind the head is a mother ****er. Use a turbo R&R kit that includes new gaskets and oil return line.
When my driver side went it around around 1500 for them to do one side or 2200 to pull the cab and do both so I did both sides.
I believe there are also some kits that replace the jiffy fittings with AN fittings and braided lines which would eliminate the problem going forward
I would be interested to know what weeps oil over the pass front corner like that, my 12 is that way
Proper fix is to pull the turbo, replace both cooling lines and all 4 jiffy fittings, the one behind the head is a mother ****er. Use a turbo R&R kit that includes new gaskets and oil return line.
When my driver side went it around around 1500 for them to do one side or 2200 to pull the cab and do both so I did both sides.
I believe there are also some kits that replace the jiffy fittings with AN fittings and braided lines which would eliminate the problem going forward
I would be interested to know what weeps oil over the pass front corner like that, my 12 is that way
The following users liked this post:
yanki01 (12-23-2022)
#3
Thread Starter
i’ll try that brake cleaner spray tip and check again. i got under there to check and was too lazy to go back and spray the turbo.
i find the fittings online “turbocharger coolant line” and comes with 4 fittings and two lines but is it the “left side” facing the engine or right side? i’d think the right side it’s im sitting inside the truck for the passenger side??
#4
Senior Member
i park my truck flat and the front or on an incline towards the rear and still have that oil on the front, it's not enough to hit the ground or register any lost oil on the dipstick even.
I had a little harder time tracking down my turbo fitting line issue because it was the driver side and my res was leaking at the elbow an dripping down as well.
I believe the left side is going to be the driver side.
I had a little harder time tracking down my turbo fitting line issue because it was the driver side and my res was leaking at the elbow an dripping down as well.
I believe the left side is going to be the driver side.
The following users liked this post:
yanki01 (12-23-2022)
#5
Thread Starter
thanks i appreciate the help. i’m having a ford tech checking it out to verify the issue. seeing videos on the turbo removal on the pass side doesn’t seem like a tough job but may have them do it instead.
i’ll update.
i’ll update.
#6
Front valve cover leak is very common and I wouldn't worry about that. Usually it's just a minor sweat. Plenty of videos on YouTube on how to replace all turbo line fittings. PITA especially during this time because of the outside temp. I would just have a shop fix it or continue driving until weather warms up and fix it yourself.
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#8
I have a random leak every once in a while somewhere on my passenger side. It will hit a exhaust pipe or something hot and smoke and stink up the whole cab for about 15 to 20 seconds. My coolant was low the other day so I'm just assuming it's a coolant leak somewhere. Never have a wet spot under the truck though.
#9
Senior Member
If one has the time, patience, and tools, jiffy fitting and turbo coolant line replacement is a long,simple, and terrible job. It is busy with a lot of interference to remove and replace. Drain radiator. Inner fenders come off, turbo induction/discharge lines come off, AC compressor and belts come off, starter comes off, intake manifold, thermostat housing, coolant pipe and tee come off, and turbos are removed. I’m retired and looked forward to the project. DIY took me 35 hours and $400+ in parts from my dealership. Seems to me $2500-$3000 for both sides is a fair price to pay for the repair.
Last edited by Barry_Vee; 12-28-2022 at 12:47 AM.