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2013 F150. After 58K miles of basically trouble free use my beloved F150 is out of action with a mysterious "parasitic" battery draw. On to my second dealership and still no luck. They said they may never find and would have to learn to live with it! Really? 2013 F150 and learn to live with a truck that can go dead without any warning? Battery has been replaced electrical system poured over and tested - and now I have to live with it? Is there any lemon law recourse that would still apply here in CA? I am the original owner and bought the extended warranty. Never missed a service interval and have been the ideal Ford owner over the last 3 years bragging how much I loved the truck. Now what?
How long does it usually take for the battery to drain? Is this an intermittent issue? Also, is the truck equipped with a floor or column shift? Does it have SYNC, Mytouch, or visual park aid/rear vision camera? The acceptable drain is 20-50 MA but the most common concern for an intermittent drain which will drain the battery overnight is the park detect switch(part of the floor shifter). In park the switch provides a ground input to the instrument cluster. When this switch fails, the IC backlighting and PRNDL stays illuminated (approx. 800 mA-1amp)
Diagram on park detect switch
Another thing to look for its water intrusion into connector C405 and C4000. These are the circuits for the rear vision camera and rear lamps. They are on the drivers side under the bed In front of the rear bumper. If it had water in it you'll definitely see water and/or corrosion. Appling electrical grease prevent water from getting back in there.
Thanks to all for the quick and thoughtful responses. I did hear from the dealer Morgan Hill Ford, here in CA today (BTW one of the best in the Bay Area). They did find the problem and ordering parts. Once I have the reasons I'll post for future reference.
My 2013 is a 5.0 XLT with column shift, tow package, crew cab, rear view camera, 4x4 and sync. I'm glad I bought the 100K ESP/maintenance plan. Relatively low cost for piece of mind.
Great truck and what modern car/truck doesn't have it's quirks, but the biggest disappointment is the hit and miss experience at Ford dealers. Why the concept of good competent service departments is so difficult for most of them to grasp is still a mystery to me. The folks at Morgan Hill get it and because of that I'll go out of my way to buy again from them and get my service done there as well.
Sorry to take so long to post the problem and solution. Turned out it was the ignition lock cylinder with had excessive end play. Error code =ODDTC B10F1:14 BCM. They replaced the ignition cylinder lock and the problem seems to have gone away. Part number AU5Z11582B
Resurrecting a dead thread here. I have a drain somewhere in my electrical system that pull anywhere between 250mA-2A. I'm not sure how accurate those numbers are, as they tended to vary. I also don't know how much I trust my clamp amp meter. I will pick up an inline amp meter over the weekend to verify the current. As of now my truck has died twice over night. The voltage dropped to about 4V each time. Once I disconnected the battery, the volts slowly climbed back up to about 9V.
CTS2433's post was extremely informative and led me to my #18 fuse. I pulled that and my clamp amp meter instantly dropped to 50mA. Currently all signs point to the park switch. The problem is that all of the clusters and shift lights seem normal. Everything illuminates and deluminates (word?) properly. Is there a way to test the shift switch to verify that it is functioning properly? obviously I don't want to replace that assembly if it isn't going to solve my problem. I also looked under the rear of the truck and none of the connectors looked corroded.
My truck is a 2011 3.5L Screw FX4 with backup camera, Sync, floor column shifter, rear parking aid beepers, I think that's everything...oh and its black!
Resurrecting a dead thread here. I have a drain somewhere in my electrical system that pull anywhere between 250mA-2A. I'm not sure how accurate those numbers are, as they tended to vary. I also don't know how much I trust my clamp amp meter. I will pick up an inline amp meter over the weekend to verify the current. As of now my truck has died twice over night. The voltage dropped to about 4V each time. Once I disconnected the battery, the volts slowly climbed back up to about 9V.
CTS2433's post was extremely informative and led me to my #18 fuse. I pulled that and my clamp amp meter instantly dropped to 50mA. Currently all signs point to the park switch. The problem is that all of the clusters and shift lights seem normal. Everything illuminates and deluminates (word?) properly. Is there a way to test the shift switch to verify that it is functioning properly? obviously I don't want to replace that assembly if it isn't going to solve my problem. I also looked under the rear of the truck and none of the connectors looked corroded.
My truck is a 2011 3.5L Screw FX4 with backup camera, Sync, floor column shifter, rear parking aid beepers, I think that's everything...oh and its black!
Thanks in advance guys!
If pulling the #18 fuse solved your problem then you have significantly narrowed down the culprit. What all does fuse 18 control? Check each part it controls and I bet you find your issue quickly. My SWAG is the switch in the shifter which seems to be the leading cause and connected to #18.
03-01-2016, 05:01 PM
Parasitic Battery Draw - Recurring Dead Battery
