P0019 and sludge
I have a 2013 f150 lariat with the 3.5 ecoboost. The truck has roughly 156k miles on it. The only two issues I have had are a torn blow off valve in the CAC (that the dealership misdiagnosed and wanted to replace both turbos which of course warranty denied) and the timing chain set replaced at about 125k miles. I always use Mobile 1 full synthetic with a mobile 1 filter. every 5,000 miles. The other day the truck started running rough and threw a p0019 along with a couple misfire codes and the classic timing chain slap on startup. i cleared the code, did some quick checks of everything, unhooked the battery, and manually actuated all 4 vvt's to make sure one wasn't stuck. all of them actuated just fine. Since the timing chain was just replaced 25k miles ago i called the dealer up and made an appointment for them to warranty their work. They called me back and said the truck was 2.5 quarts low on oil, full of sludge, and recommended a complete engine replacement. Straight up told the guy bullsh*t. (i checked the oil before i took it in there since i know the vvts run off of oil pressure). They stated that after the filled the oil up it was running much better and the oil must have went thru the turbo bearing into the intake and burned off. they said the low oil was causing the vvt to not function correctly, but it was a limited amount of time before the turbos start dumping so much oil it wont run or the sludge gums up everything. I picked the truck up and drove it home. The truck still runs the same as before and i changed the oil when i got home. There was no sign of sludge in what i drained and there def was not 2.5 quarts of oil added to it. It was not that clean.
So my plan is to do a flush if i see any sludge when i open the valve covers and bore scope the oil pan, replace the bank 2 sensor 2 vvt and inspect the timing chain. I do have a code scanner with some diagnostic and live data info. what should the spark adv. be at idle. 0 degrees? I also have access to a snap on scan tool. I know im not going to win an argument again the dealer. anything else you guys suggest me trying? if there was no sludge 25k miles ago i dont see how it magically got full of sludge now when i have continued the same oil change frequency.
So my plan is to do a flush if i see any sludge when i open the valve covers and bore scope the oil pan, replace the bank 2 sensor 2 vvt and inspect the timing chain. I do have a code scanner with some diagnostic and live data info. what should the spark adv. be at idle. 0 degrees? I also have access to a snap on scan tool. I know im not going to win an argument again the dealer. anything else you guys suggest me trying? if there was no sludge 25k miles ago i dont see how it magically got full of sludge now when i have continued the same oil change frequency.
Are you using 5w20? If so bump up to 5w30 and see if it helps with the chain slap. I dont see how the the dealer could prove sludge on the engine without either draining the oil or pulling off the valve covers.
before you change your oil, put some sefoam in your oil and thr the truck run for a few minutes then drain it. Not too much of it though. One ounce per quart
before you change your oil, put some sefoam in your oil and thr the truck run for a few minutes then drain it. Not too much of it though. One ounce per quart
The sludge issue is kind of odd...
I had a 2013 eco as well...changed the timing chian and all else 3 times. Parts of the last set didn't last 5000 miles!
My engine insides were clean as could be...spotless!
So you changed the oil? topped up and it still has the cold start rattle?
Take it back and make them fix it!
I had a 2013 eco as well...changed the timing chian and all else 3 times. Parts of the last set didn't last 5000 miles!
My engine insides were clean as could be...spotless!
So you changed the oil? topped up and it still has the cold start rattle?
Take it back and make them fix it!
Ive been using 5w30. The dealer said there was chunks of sludge on the dip stick when they checked it. But if that were true then i should have seen something when i drained it especially since i ran it through a screened funnel when i drained it to try and catch the chunks. I will try the seafoam tonight. I've never had to flush an engine before and I have ran them well past 200k several times so i appreciate the tips. I will post some pics tonight after i get the valve covers off.
Honestly, I've known many old timers successfully clear out sludge by running about 1/2qt of kerosene in with the oil. I personally use 1/2qt of transmission fluid in with the other 6 1/2qts of 5W30 on my 2004 5.4 with 156k miles.
Im going to take pics of the inside tonight and if there truly is no sludge i will be sending them to the dealer and arguing. I'm sure they wont budge but I don't think a different dealer will warranty any other dealers work. The cold rattle is random and has not happened since i got it back from the dealer (its only been 1 day). but it did do it after my last oil change (about 6 weeks ago).
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How long do you run with the transmission fluid in it? 5 min idle in driveway? Pictures will be taken first but after that i will try this with some ATV. ( i got 1/2 gallon left from a VW passat engine swap i completed this last weekend)
I always use it. My truck calls for 7 quarts of oil. I use 6.5 quarts of 5W30 and .5qt of trans fluid. It doesn't hurt the engine in such a low quantity but the trans fluid has more detergents in it than regular oil.
popular misconception that ATF has more detergents, but virgin oil analysis shows significantly less detergents. The closed environment of a transmission and lack of combustion requires much less.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...Number=2942940
https://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/dri...-engine-flush/
https://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...or-oil-141272/
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...Number=2942940
https://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/dri...-engine-flush/
https://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...or-oil-141272/










