Overhead Switch Panel
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2nd Amendment Supporter!
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,596
Likes: 409
From: Cranberry Twp, Pa
Overhead Switch Panel
Note: Picture heavy at the end.....
I’ve added a set of lights, then fog lights, then driving lights, then a set of Rigids, then a set of aux reverse lights & LED bedlights are next…. After installing a couple in-dash switches, the question was: “Where do I put all the additional switches” ?? Sound familiar??? LOL!
There are many great ideas and installs and other threads from fellow members that look fantastic on here … but then it got my head turning….
The business next to my work is a machine shop that builds Linear Actuators & I know the machinist very well, so I gave him some ideas and my templates I made and had him custom machine me an Aluminum 6 switch panel. I wanted to mount it overhead in the headliner. I also had him bevel the outside edges for a clean, custom, yet factory look, and then sent it out to get Black Anodized coated. The machine screws are black oxide allen screws and are even counter sunk in the aluminum panel for a natural look. Lastly, It bolts through the headliner with an oversized stainless steel fender washer and a nylon lock nut on the inside to keep it all in place.
I used LED rocker switches that have an inner mount measurement of: .053 x 1.090 (or 13.46mm x 27.70mm for the metric users). I exclusively found these switches for their know quality, but smaller size and are rated for 16 amps at 12V rating. Since ALL my accessories already are equipped with a nice wiring harness and relays (or “coil”) I will simply tap into the main 3 wires that originally goes to the switch, (Power in, power out & ground). These switches have 3 color choices on their LEDS: Red, Amber & green, (Unfortunately blue is not available)
I used 3 conductor 22 gauge wire that I got from my work, and is prefect for the size for me to run the group of wires down the A pillar, then to the lower dash to plumb into the existing wires. Again, I ONLY recommend this when running a “coil” (aka: a RELAY). Your relay will take ALL the power, and only milliamps will be powering the switch. Many may want to use at thicker gauge wire, but the 22 gauge will definitely suffice in my type of set up.
I have a laser machine (smaller hobby type) and laser cut templates to trace out (from thicker "card stock" type of paper) to the exact shape of the aluminum switch panel shape,... then I centered and leveled the template to my liking, then got a sharpie and traced that inside outline. I then slowly and carefully made my cuts thru the headliner with a new sharp razor, made modifications to the support behind it, bolted it in, and then ran the wiring harness down the A pillar to the underside of the dash on the left (DVR) side.
Now… this mod is NOT for everyone, nor the “faint of heart”- as the headliner must be cut & modified - including the inner plastic support piece that will need to be trimmed as well. Our headliners are NOT cheap, and this mod is pretty much permanent to your truck unless you want to shell out $1000 (or more) for a new one.
My truck is a Super Crew with a moonroof ... that area is “flat” right below the moonroof and above the sunglass compartment. Applications without a moonroof, (Just like what my son has), does has a slight curve (or dome) to it, and I curved one by hand and fits the curve perfect. I will probably install one on his truck next....(New pics and info on non-moonroof equipped F-150's will come sometime in the future).
Now for the pics:
I’ve added a set of lights, then fog lights, then driving lights, then a set of Rigids, then a set of aux reverse lights & LED bedlights are next…. After installing a couple in-dash switches, the question was: “Where do I put all the additional switches” ?? Sound familiar??? LOL!
There are many great ideas and installs and other threads from fellow members that look fantastic on here … but then it got my head turning….
The business next to my work is a machine shop that builds Linear Actuators & I know the machinist very well, so I gave him some ideas and my templates I made and had him custom machine me an Aluminum 6 switch panel. I wanted to mount it overhead in the headliner. I also had him bevel the outside edges for a clean, custom, yet factory look, and then sent it out to get Black Anodized coated. The machine screws are black oxide allen screws and are even counter sunk in the aluminum panel for a natural look. Lastly, It bolts through the headliner with an oversized stainless steel fender washer and a nylon lock nut on the inside to keep it all in place.
I used LED rocker switches that have an inner mount measurement of: .053 x 1.090 (or 13.46mm x 27.70mm for the metric users). I exclusively found these switches for their know quality, but smaller size and are rated for 16 amps at 12V rating. Since ALL my accessories already are equipped with a nice wiring harness and relays (or “coil”) I will simply tap into the main 3 wires that originally goes to the switch, (Power in, power out & ground). These switches have 3 color choices on their LEDS: Red, Amber & green, (Unfortunately blue is not available)
I used 3 conductor 22 gauge wire that I got from my work, and is prefect for the size for me to run the group of wires down the A pillar, then to the lower dash to plumb into the existing wires. Again, I ONLY recommend this when running a “coil” (aka: a RELAY). Your relay will take ALL the power, and only milliamps will be powering the switch. Many may want to use at thicker gauge wire, but the 22 gauge will definitely suffice in my type of set up.
I have a laser machine (smaller hobby type) and laser cut templates to trace out (from thicker "card stock" type of paper) to the exact shape of the aluminum switch panel shape,... then I centered and leveled the template to my liking, then got a sharpie and traced that inside outline. I then slowly and carefully made my cuts thru the headliner with a new sharp razor, made modifications to the support behind it, bolted it in, and then ran the wiring harness down the A pillar to the underside of the dash on the left (DVR) side.
Now… this mod is NOT for everyone, nor the “faint of heart”- as the headliner must be cut & modified - including the inner plastic support piece that will need to be trimmed as well. Our headliners are NOT cheap, and this mod is pretty much permanent to your truck unless you want to shell out $1000 (or more) for a new one.
My truck is a Super Crew with a moonroof ... that area is “flat” right below the moonroof and above the sunglass compartment. Applications without a moonroof, (Just like what my son has), does has a slight curve (or dome) to it, and I curved one by hand and fits the curve perfect. I will probably install one on his truck next....(New pics and info on non-moonroof equipped F-150's will come sometime in the future).
Now for the pics:
Last edited by Lethal Weapon; Aug 4, 2015 at 10:46 PM. Reason: Fixed my horrible spelling & grammar! LOL!
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Thread Starter
2nd Amendment Supporter!
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,596
Likes: 409
From: Cranberry Twp, Pa
I was talking to my "machinist" today and a couple members I was previously talking to on another thread ...that were wanting a 4 switch panel.... I think it's already in the works!
Thanks again & here to help!
