OTRATTW Switch Wiring Question
#1
OTRATTW Switch Wiring Question
Can anyone tell me if this wiring is correct. I have a switch from otrattw that I am using in the cab and Im a little confused on the wiring for the actual lights within the switch itself. The graphic is on the top of the switch and the text is on the bottom. I want the bottom text illuminated when the rest of my dash lights/buttons go on (parking/dash lights circuit) and the top light for the graphic to go on only when the accessory is turned on regardless of which switch was used to turn it on (cab or tailgate switch). Wasn't sure if I ran a jumper from #1 & #8 if that would achieve this or if #8 needed to be connected to the power wire going from the relay to the accessory. Thanks in advance for your help!
#5
I have these hooked to my Rigids, except opposite. The txt lights up when the switch is on and symbol with dash lights. It looks like you may have gotten the wrong ones. I'm sure it'll work but if I recall the top portion was dependent and the lower independent, not both independent. OTTRAW has really good customer, have your tried calling them?
#6
Senior Member
Im running OTRATTWs in my truck,
However I am running models V1D1JBBB, thats blue/blue. They are 5 pin, with the bottom light (text) being independent, I have mine run to the ignition. The top (graphics) is dependent, and is only on when the switch is in the on position.
This sounds like exactly what you are looking for, however it seems you want to run two switches to the same device? If so sadly I have no idea how to wire that, but if you want just one switch that is quite simple.
Mine has pins , 8,7,6,2,3. I have them wired as follows, 8 and 7 are spliced together, and are the {black} ground. 2 is the main power {white} line. 3 is the negative {blue} line. And 6 (the bottom light power source) I have spliced to the Ignition hot wire.
Obviously you would want to wire 6 to a running light powered light. Wouldn't hurt to mention that my accessory is always "hot" and can be turned on even when the bottom, ignition powered, light is off. So if I need to turn on my 50" lightbar without wanting to turn on my truck I can.
Hope this helps, Actually got me to log in and make my first post so I hope it does.
-Eric
However I am running models V1D1JBBB, thats blue/blue. They are 5 pin, with the bottom light (text) being independent, I have mine run to the ignition. The top (graphics) is dependent, and is only on when the switch is in the on position.
This sounds like exactly what you are looking for, however it seems you want to run two switches to the same device? If so sadly I have no idea how to wire that, but if you want just one switch that is quite simple.
Mine has pins , 8,7,6,2,3. I have them wired as follows, 8 and 7 are spliced together, and are the {black} ground. 2 is the main power {white} line. 3 is the negative {blue} line. And 6 (the bottom light power source) I have spliced to the Ignition hot wire.
Obviously you would want to wire 6 to a running light powered light. Wouldn't hurt to mention that my accessory is always "hot" and can be turned on even when the bottom, ignition powered, light is off. So if I need to turn on my 50" lightbar without wanting to turn on my truck I can.
Hope this helps, Actually got me to log in and make my first post so I hope it does.
-Eric
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The Machine (06-13-2014)
#7
Hey finally!! Thanks texasfx2 & Ericthemarine (thanks for your service by the way!) I have spdt switches so I have two power options for the accessories (always hot or run off of another lighting circuit (parking lights or dome lights). I sent otrattw an email this morn but didn't receive a response yet.
Might be a dumb question but do I need to fuse the wires to the lights within the switch? Can I use 16g for those, I'm running 14g for the main switch wires.
Thanks again guys!
Might be a dumb question but do I need to fuse the wires to the lights within the switch? Can I use 16g for those, I'm running 14g for the main switch wires.
Thanks again guys!
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#8
Senior Member
For my two light bars, I purchased a premade harness for each. The harness is fused, but only from the battery pos to the relay. It runs 14g for both the Pos and Neg lines, however the switch lines (off the relay, no fuse) are all 20g.
Most switches I see use a 20g wire, so 16g might be too heavy for the switch. I could be wrong. I dont think I have ever seen a fuse run on the switch end, but that doesn't mean it cant or shouldnt be done. I only recently got into this stuff myself haha.
My main power runs directly from the battery, has an almost immediate inline fuse, then both lines run into the relay. From there it splits off into two sets of lines. One for Powering the light, and one for the switch. I had to extend both sets to get them to fit.
Im not 100% sure on your switch sadly, so all my knowledge comes from the setup I have. Hopefully they get back to you or someone who knows more can help. I will help anyway I can though.
Most switches I see use a 20g wire, so 16g might be too heavy for the switch. I could be wrong. I dont think I have ever seen a fuse run on the switch end, but that doesn't mean it cant or shouldnt be done. I only recently got into this stuff myself haha.
My main power runs directly from the battery, has an almost immediate inline fuse, then both lines run into the relay. From there it splits off into two sets of lines. One for Powering the light, and one for the switch. I had to extend both sets to get them to fit.
Im not 100% sure on your switch sadly, so all my knowledge comes from the setup I have. Hopefully they get back to you or someone who knows more can help. I will help anyway I can though.