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Old 01-25-2014, 10:19 PM
  #61  
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I either need less beer or more. I'm going to the beer fridge and see if more helps.

I do however wish you luck with the new purchase.
Old 01-25-2014, 10:29 PM
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Everything is good now . The 17 in wheel that I have now works there is sufficient room around the entire rotor and caliper . The wheel is built differently . But at this point just keep drinking and forget this thread ever happened .. As long as it's good beer.
Old 01-26-2014, 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by nemosdad
I either need less beer or more. I'm going to the beer fridge and see if more helps.

I do however wish you luck with the new purchase.
I'm with you...the rims can only be mounted one way, and the tires are non-directional, so there should be no way that the method of mounting the tires can affect how the rims fit.

Ultimately, sounds like the rims had a tapered bore, for whatever reason, and therefore the ID of the inner portion of the rim was too small to adequately clear the caliper.

Sorry you went through so much trouble trying to mount new wheels. Enjoy the newest ones!
Old 01-26-2014, 12:51 AM
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I believe he was talking about mounting the tire on the rim, when the rim is on a mounting machine, the one that grips and spins the rim when you're pitting a tire on it.

Not onto the truck. That would be downright retarded if he thought it were mounted to the truck face IN. Lol
Old 01-26-2014, 01:36 AM
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Well, I understand that he's referring to the mounting of the tire onto the rim, but what I'm not following is how this would affect the rim's ability to properly mount on the truck. Again, rims can only be mounted one way, tires are non-directional. Unless there's something I'm missing, the physical rim itself (ie, the tapered bore that decreases ID from outer lip to inner lip) is the only part of the equation/process that could have created sammusi's issue.
Old 01-26-2014, 01:40 AM
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Ooooohhhhhh

Lol

I got ya now. And yeah, idfk why the explanation was so complex and confusing. I don't get it either.
Old 01-26-2014, 06:52 AM
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....
Hey! It's all ball bearings nowadays. Now you prepare that Fetzer valve with some 3-in-1 oil and some gauze pads. And I'm gonna need 'bout ten quarts of anti-freeze, preferably Prestone. No, no make that Quaker State.
...
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Old 01-26-2014, 08:00 AM
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Dudes you guys are looking too deep into this . I'm not talking about bolting the wheel to the vehicle . The rim itself not the tire . When you mount a tire on a wheel . (I've worked at a shop my entire life so I do this alot) the rim goes on the machine it clamps on the inside of the wheel with the face of the rim face up . With reverse mount wheels they have a wider or thicker face on the back of wheel so you have to mount the tire with the rim face face down . I appreciate all the help from everyone in the beginning but now I didn't realize everyone replying was so awesome and knew everything. Sorry it turned into a circus
Old 01-26-2014, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Cowpig
.......
A quote from 'Fletch'! That's not something you see everyday, haha.


Originally Posted by sammusi
Dudes you guys are looking too deep into this . I'm not talking about bolting the wheel to the vehicle . The rim itself not the tire . When you mount a tire on a wheel . (I've worked at a shop my entire life so I do this alot) the rim goes on the machine it clamps on the inside of the wheel with the face of the rim face up . With reverse mount wheels they have a wider or thicker face on the back of wheel so you have to mount the tire with the rim face face down . I appreciate all the help from everyone in the beginning but now I didn't realize everyone replying was so awesome and knew everything. Sorry it turned into a circus
I don't think anyone is saying "I know everything," I think we're all confused as to what you're trying to explain. You had this issue with the rims not clearing your calipers. You stated that the tapered bore was causing the inner part of the rim to scrape the caliper, correct? That I follow. Where it gets confusing is that you also talked about how the rim is a "reverse mount," and explained how the tire has to be mounted differently. The way it reads, it seems like somehow the mounting of the tire caused the clearance issue, and that's what doesn't make sense.

Are you simply stating that, because the rim is a "reverse mount" rim as far as installing the tire, that's why it has the tapered bore, and in turn, because of the tapered inner bore, the rim won't fit? If that's what you're trying to convey, then I follow, it simply didn't come across as that being the explanation.
Old 01-27-2014, 07:13 AM
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Yes that is what I'm saying . The inner bore of a "reverse mount rim" is thicker and not completely flat. With a regular mount rim the bore is smooth all the way to the inner edge of rim . When I put the tuff wheel on "reverse mount" I had very minimal clearance around the entire caliper rotor dust shield . As soon as I would tighten the lugs the wheel would bind . When I fit the mayhem wheel same diameter 17" the wheel had about a half inch or so of clearance around the caliper rotor dust shield . So I figured out that the build of a reverse mounted rim is thicker and will not work because of the step down it has on the inside edge . No big deal at this point my issue is solved and I'm appreciative for all of the feedback



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