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My Retrofit project

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Old 03-16-2017, 10:04 AM
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real clean setup. Whats the overall cost you have in them?
Old 03-16-2017, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Cammy
Very nice! I plan on doing this in the next couple months as well. Did you buy the kit from TRS? What style of housing is the one you put around the projector? Or better yet maybe a whole parts list you purchased!
search, read, and search some more. Plenty of DIY write ups and videos on HIDplanet and youtube. Definitely subscribe to LightWerkz on youtube, I don't know if anyone does this better than him.

I used morimoto everything, D2S 4.0 projectors, 35w ballasts and 5500k bulbs.

The kit came to my door for around $450 Canadian,
Misc stuff like paint, sand paper, some tools maybe $100, and a spare set of headlights. And a metric ton of patience. Not cheap, but worth it I think. Now I can see why people charge so much to do this.
One thing nobody mentions you need ...when you're testing stock output without a car, how do you get power from battery to bulb? you will need a pigtail. I got one from amazon, TRS also has them. I'd also get a pair of 3m goretex patches.

If you buy from TRS, I think their coupon code is TRSHJ for 10%
Old 03-16-2017, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by AleksV
search, read, and search some more. Plenty of DIY write ups and videos on HIDplanet and youtube. Definitely subscribe to LightWerkz on youtube, I don't know if anyone does this better than him.

I used morimoto everything, D2S 4.0 projectors, 35w ballasts and 5500k bulbs.

The kit came to my door for around $450 Canadian,
Misc stuff like paint, sand paper, some tools maybe $100, and a spare set of headlights. And a metric ton of patience. Not cheap, but worth it I think. Now I can see why people charge so much to do this.
One thing nobody mentions you need ...when you're testing stock output without a car, how do you get power from battery to bulb? you will need a pigtail. I got one from amazon, TRS also has them. I'd also get a pair of 3m goretex patches.

If you buy from TRS, I think their coupon code is TRSHJ for 10%
I built a bench top power supply from an old computer PSU. There are plenty of how-to's on how to do that and it gives you enough juice to power at least two ballast. I use it all the time to test things like LED lights and well HID's.
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Old 03-16-2017, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by AleksV

If you buy from TRS, I think their coupon code is TRSHJ for 10%
I used F150GB25 and that worked still...I believe you need to purchase a whole "kit" though for this one to work. So if you want to purchase the projectors, harness, ballasts, bulbs, shrouds as one of their universal kits, this code should still work and save you over 100 bucks. I don't think this code would work if you just tried buying a set of 50 dollar bulbs. It might, doesn't hurt to try!!!
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Old 03-16-2017, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by AleksV
This is what the kitchen table looked like a lot of the time, wife wasn't too happy. I need a garage.
very nice retrofit, awesome work.

I was thinking you might be a fellow Canadian when I saw this table pic... I spotted the wallet, looks like mine. A Canada Leathers Bison Skin by Adrian Klis.
Then I see you said Alberta.... home of Canada Leathers.

I wish I could get the truck interior done in Bison... man it wears well.

Now back to the Retros, I have my prototypes in my truck now, an old set of mini H1s, I have been tempted to do another set of with either the d2s 4.0 or the Mini H1 7.0, I was pretty set n the 7.0 but after seeing your cutoff, my mind is racing again. with 7.0 I only need the projectors, if I switch to the 4.0, I'll need new bulbs and d2s adapters for my xb35 ballasts... decisions decisions
Old 03-16-2017, 06:05 PM
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This was my cutoff with the 7.0's....it wasn't bad but I am not a fan of the bulb retaining clips and how the bulbs goes into the 7.0's. The D2S's are a much more robust fit and sit nice in the projectors. My opinion of course...but I prefer the D2S's....

My Retrofit project-photo473.jpg

This photo below was the cutoff in my D2S 3.0 projectors from my Ram....I don't know if it was because the truck was lifted 8.5" (I obviously aimed the lights correctly) but these were way nicer and performed better for me.

My Retrofit project-photo938.jpg
My Retrofit project-photo953.jpg
Old 03-16-2017, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by morehousej
very nice retrofit, awesome work.

I was thinking you might be a fellow Canadian when I saw this table pic... I spotted the wallet, looks like mine. A Canada Leathers Bison Skin by Adrian Klis.
Then I see you said Alberta.... home of Canada Leathers.

I wish I could get the truck interior done in Bison... man it wears well.

Now back to the Retros, I have my prototypes in my truck now, an old set of mini H1s, I have been tempted to do another set of with either the d2s 4.0 or the Mini H1 7.0, I was pretty set n the 7.0 but after seeing your cutoff, my mind is racing again. with 7.0 I only need the projectors, if I switch to the 4.0, I'll need new bulbs and d2s adapters for my xb35 ballasts... decisions decisions
Lol at the wallet comment. It's a fossil I got a few years back, couldn't tell you what type of leather it is. Still holding up great.
If budget is considered at all, I'd go for the 7.0 for sure. The 4.0 is nice, but the step is gigantic

Originally Posted by 06F150CFCT
This was my cutoff with the 7.0's....it wasn't bad but I am not a fan of the bulb retaining clips and how the bulbs goes into the 7.0's. The D2S's are a much more robust fit and sit nice in the projectors. My opinion of course...but I prefer the D2S's....

Attachment 470294

This photo below was the cutoff in my D2S 3.0 projectors from my Ram....I don't know if it was because the truck was lifted 8.5" (I obviously aimed the lights correctly) but these were way nicer and performed better for me.

Attachment 470296
Attachment 470295
The 7.0 cutoff seems weak on passenger side. I have this right now with my set up. I think I need to align the bulb a bit. I don't know how hard it is to install and align 7.0, but The d2s 4.0 isn't that great. The spring holding the bulb in easily pushes trough the screw cap part. The cap barely holds it down. I had some troubles
Old 03-16-2017, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by paintballdude05
I built a bench top power supply from an old computer PSU. There are plenty of how-to's on how to do that and it gives you enough juice to power at least two ballast. I use it all the time to test things like LED lights and well HID's.
I'll look into the diy power supply when I do another one. It was a bit of a bitch working with a motorcycle battery
Old 03-17-2017, 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by AleksV
search, read, and search some more. Plenty of DIY write ups and videos on HIDplanet and youtube. Definitely subscribe to LightWerkz on youtube, I don't know if anyone does this better than him.

I used morimoto everything, D2S 4.0 projectors, 35w ballasts and 5500k bulbs.

The kit came to my door for around $450 Canadian,
Misc stuff like paint, sand paper, some tools maybe $100, and a spare set of headlights. And a metric ton of patience. Not cheap, but worth it I think. Now I can see why people charge so much to do this.
One thing nobody mentions you need ...when you're testing stock output without a car, how do you get power from battery to bulb? you will need a pigtail. I got one from amazon, TRS also has them. I'd also get a pair of 3m goretex patches.

If you buy from TRS, I think their coupon code is TRSHJ for 10%
Thanks for the help! I've been researching a lot, just like to see a full parts list to compare to others and which I think would fit my application best.
Old 03-17-2017, 10:19 PM
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no problem, let me know if you have any questions
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