Looking at used F-150's. 2010 5.4 Lariat or 2011 5.0 XLT?
#11
Senior Member
But yeah I went 5.0 because of reliability, ease of maintenance, newer tech, just like you said. My Dad had a 5.4 Lariat and it was a nightmare...cam phasers, ticking valvetrain, really hard to work on, etc.
#12
On my 38th Ford
They're all mechanical, they all have issues. I signed on to see "add me to the 5.0L knock list" and the 5.4L aren't without their issues either.
All that can really be reported are experiences, with how they're maintained. I use my 2010 5.4L Every day, and 80% of the days I have a bed full of tools and supplies, and a trailer pulling two mowers and a bunch of other messy lawn stuff.
I just did a 100,000 mile change-a-palooza, and changed ALL of my fluids, plugs, etc. I'm at 108,000 now, and have had to clean the MAF once, put brakes, shocks and stuff on, a set of tires- and those are all of the things I've had to do on my 5.4L
All that can really be reported are experiences, with how they're maintained. I use my 2010 5.4L Every day, and 80% of the days I have a bed full of tools and supplies, and a trailer pulling two mowers and a bunch of other messy lawn stuff.
I just did a 100,000 mile change-a-palooza, and changed ALL of my fluids, plugs, etc. I'm at 108,000 now, and have had to clean the MAF once, put brakes, shocks and stuff on, a set of tires- and those are all of the things I've had to do on my 5.4L
#13
I'll way in as well. I've owned both motors, a 2012 lariat 5.0 supercrew, and now a 2010 platinum 5.4 supercrew. The 5.0 I had was geared 3.55 in the rear end, and it was very anemic until you got it revving in the 4k rpm range. My 2010 has 3.73s and max tow package, plus all the platinum comforts (power boards, nav, moonroof, 20" wheels, etc). I do miss the productivity screen in the dash that will show you the transmission temp digitally, but I've gotten around that with the torq app on my smartphone and a bluetooth OBD2 scanner when I tow heavy.
That said, the 5.4 has more grunt down low, but it won't rev up and knock your socks off. If you tow a bunch, the 5.4 has a nice flat torque curve. I find it far more enjoyable to drive around empty as well because it is just soo smooth from right off the line. It will be very much like your expedition, but make sure you get one with 3.73 gears, it makes all the difference.
Don't worry about spark plug changes, it took me maybe 20 extra minutes to do them in my 2010 vs my 2012. The 5.4 does still have issues with cam phasers but not nearly as bad as the early model years. Run a quality full synthetic 5w30 motor oil (I prefer penzoil platinum) and change every 5k miles and the truck will treat you well. listen to one on a cold startup, if it rattles for a second, walk away, it needs a timing set. If it sounds like a diesel at hot idle, walk away, it needs a timing set.
In your price range, you should be able to find a lower mileage 5.4, they got a bad rep early on, and so can be had for great deals (look for lariat, king range, fx4, or platinum and skip right over the xlt and xtr models). The 5.0 is also a good motor, but its better in a mustang. If you must have one, get an FX4 that hopefully has the 3.73 gears as it will make a definite difference. Either way you go, invest in an SCT x4 tuner and run a performance/tow tune to get the most out of the electronic throttle and 6 speed transmission shift strategy.
That said, the 5.4 has more grunt down low, but it won't rev up and knock your socks off. If you tow a bunch, the 5.4 has a nice flat torque curve. I find it far more enjoyable to drive around empty as well because it is just soo smooth from right off the line. It will be very much like your expedition, but make sure you get one with 3.73 gears, it makes all the difference.
Don't worry about spark plug changes, it took me maybe 20 extra minutes to do them in my 2010 vs my 2012. The 5.4 does still have issues with cam phasers but not nearly as bad as the early model years. Run a quality full synthetic 5w30 motor oil (I prefer penzoil platinum) and change every 5k miles and the truck will treat you well. listen to one on a cold startup, if it rattles for a second, walk away, it needs a timing set. If it sounds like a diesel at hot idle, walk away, it needs a timing set.
In your price range, you should be able to find a lower mileage 5.4, they got a bad rep early on, and so can be had for great deals (look for lariat, king range, fx4, or platinum and skip right over the xlt and xtr models). The 5.0 is also a good motor, but its better in a mustang. If you must have one, get an FX4 that hopefully has the 3.73 gears as it will make a definite difference. Either way you go, invest in an SCT x4 tuner and run a performance/tow tune to get the most out of the electronic throttle and 6 speed transmission shift strategy.
#14
Don't buy the 2010, if the 5.4 hasn't had regular oil changes it'll need phasers timing chain tensioners and timing chain guides. And while they're in there it'll need a oil pump. heres a list of issues I've had with my 2010 Lariat
Cam phasers
Timing Chain Guides
Timing Chain tensioners
Heater Blend doors
HVAC air box and computer
The Recirculating Air valve for the AC MAX has broken and needs replaced $1500 at the dealership.
My limited slip rear differential failed the clutch packs seized up and I had to replace the diff.
The Sun roof rails Broke leaving my sunroof none functional.
The transmission bulk head was leaking that got replaced
The Transmission also needed reprogrammed and relearned because it was shifting like ****.
Save yourself the money and heart ache don't buy sight unseen and make sure you get a car fax and it has documented 5000 mile oil changes!
DONT BUY A USED 2010 WITH THE 5.4L IF IT DOESNT HAVE ALL THE SERVICE RECORDS!
Cam phasers
Timing Chain Guides
Timing Chain tensioners
Heater Blend doors
HVAC air box and computer
The Recirculating Air valve for the AC MAX has broken and needs replaced $1500 at the dealership.
My limited slip rear differential failed the clutch packs seized up and I had to replace the diff.
The Sun roof rails Broke leaving my sunroof none functional.
The transmission bulk head was leaking that got replaced
The Transmission also needed reprogrammed and relearned because it was shifting like ****.
Save yourself the money and heart ache don't buy sight unseen and make sure you get a car fax and it has documented 5000 mile oil changes!
DONT BUY A USED 2010 WITH THE 5.4L IF IT DOESNT HAVE ALL THE SERVICE RECORDS!
Last edited by rvtrc211v; 04-23-2017 at 10:58 PM.
#15
Don't buy the 2010, if the 5.4 hasn't had regular oil changes it'll need phasers timing chain tensioners and timing chain guides. And while they're in there it'll need a oil pump. heres a list of issues I've had with my 2010 Lariat
Cam phasers
Timing Chain Guides
Timing Chain tensioners
Heater Blend doors
HVAC air box and computer
The Recirculating Air valve for the AC MAX has broken and needs replaced $1500 at the dealership.
My limited slip rear differential failed the clutch packs seized up and I had to replace the diff.
The Sun roof rails Broke leaving my sunroof none functional.
The transmission bulk head was leaking that got replaced
The Transmission also needed reprogrammed and relearned because it was shifting like ****.
Save yourself the money and heart ache don't buy sight unseen and make sure you get a car fax and it has documented 5000 mile oil changes!
DONT BUY A USED 2010 WITH THE 5.4L IF IT DOESNT HAVE ALL THE SERVICE RECORDS!
Cam phasers
Timing Chain Guides
Timing Chain tensioners
Heater Blend doors
HVAC air box and computer
The Recirculating Air valve for the AC MAX has broken and needs replaced $1500 at the dealership.
My limited slip rear differential failed the clutch packs seized up and I had to replace the diff.
The Sun roof rails Broke leaving my sunroof none functional.
The transmission bulk head was leaking that got replaced
The Transmission also needed reprogrammed and relearned because it was shifting like ****.
Save yourself the money and heart ache don't buy sight unseen and make sure you get a car fax and it has documented 5000 mile oil changes!
DONT BUY A USED 2010 WITH THE 5.4L IF IT DOESNT HAVE ALL THE SERVICE RECORDS!
#16
How's she goin' eh?
I'd like to add, I love my coyote and am glad I waited for it over a triton series motor. I'm not knocking the tritons, they were made in my city, they are a great motor.
#17
Loved my 2010 Lariat had 150k never a problem. In a tuck I would take the 5.4 over the 5.0 every time.
Drove a 5.0 XLT for a month, nice but really made me miss my 5.4. Seems to me like the 5.0 is more for a car than a truck.
Have a Eco Lariat now, if you can swing it buy that
Oh and beside the motor the inside of the Lariat is just nicer place to be IMHO.
Drove a 5.0 XLT for a month, nice but really made me miss my 5.4. Seems to me like the 5.0 is more for a car than a truck.
Have a Eco Lariat now, if you can swing it buy that
Oh and beside the motor the inside of the Lariat is just nicer place to be IMHO.
#18
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Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Western NC
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Being someone that has an 09 with the 5.4, I'm not scared of them. You've got to remember, people only post the bad stuff with the 5.4 and never post the good. My truck just hit 109,000 miles. The only things I've done to it is maintenance items, filters, fluids and just changed the spark plugs. I get 14mpg in the city and close to 21 on the highway, and that's with 10 ply bfg 35's. towing, pulls like a boss, but mileage is horrible towing. We've got a 7000 lb travel trailer it pulls. If you find a 5.4 truck that you like, and has been taken care of, buy it.
#20
2011 XLT 5.0... No question in my book. The 5.0 is a beast and different animal all around. And I don't see ford getting rid of it anytime soon. Just my thoughts tho... My previous truck had the 5.4. If you drive both you will more than likely choose the 5.0 as well lol.