youngpadawan

So me being a noob when it comes to suspension I ask some questions, Which is better a level kit or a lift kit?
What are benefits? What are cons? what are some brands? what tires are best?
Help me out please.

zimmer0

iTrader: (1)

it all depends on the look you're trying to achieve and the wheel/tire you want to run.
If you have a setup in mind, we can make suggestions?

If you're looking for general info, search this vast forum.

Augster

As zimmer stated, it's dependent upon what your goals are: Are you just trying to get rid of the factory "rake;" do you want to stuff bigger wheels in the fenders; do you need more chassis clearance for off roading, or simply want the "off road" look?

A "leveling kit" simply raises the front with either spacers on top of the coilovers:



...or adjustable height shocks (ala Bilstein) or full coilovers:



A true "lift kit" raises the truck via hefty suspension lift brackets to relocate the lower control arms, replace the steering knuckles with a longer one, and for 4WD, drop the front axle. The front coilovers can either be entirely replaced with longer ones, or a tall spacer added.



Leveling kits can vary in height from 1/2" to 3" (2WD only). Lift kits vary from a minimum of 4" all the way up to a nose-bleeding 12" high kit from Bulletproof Suspensions.

I noticed you have an FX2, so you could go with up to a 3" "level" kit up front since you don't have to worry about front half-shaft CV joint angles.

zimmer0

iTrader: (1)

From a fellow leveled FX2 owner, don't do a 3" level.
Here's mine with a 2.25" readylift.

youngpadawan

Eh maybe I just keep it stock.

SD_F1504x4

Level kit is like budget spacers might include shocks. Will ride like factory. Geometry might be a bit off which causes front tire wear issues. Fit 35s on a 4x4 with level with my offset wheels. Might need camber kit to fix front issue.

Lift should include new springs and shocks front and rear. Maybe more depending how big a lift. Should ride well and do better offroad i think.

Here is my leveled 2012 xlt 4x4 on 35x12.5x18. Minimal rubbing at lock.

gmitchell95

Hey yall, I joined this forum just to try and get some info on leveling kit / tire fitment. I've searched for some answers but cant seem to find solid help, maybe it's just because I am not well versed on this forum.

Long story short, the 2012 XL was totaled in June but I was able to keep my wheels and tires. Theyre 315/70/17 BFG AT's and I want to put them on the new truck, 2012 Lariat. My XL was apparently leveled by previous owner but I'm not sure what particular kit he used.

My question is what the best route for leveling my truck so I can run my BFG's / raptor wheels? Is the best option the hockey pucks, adjustable struts, or adjustable coil-overs? What is the feasibility of installing any of these myself? I'm not looking to prematurely deteriorate parts for the sake of saving a little money, but also not looking to break the bank. Any help would be appreciated!

16IngotFX4

@gmitchell95 A 2" to 2.5" coil-over assembly offers a better ride over the puck design so they say. I haven't had either but most will say the coil-over is best.
A spacer is cheapest and slightly easier to install. You'll need to do similar work in terms of disconnecting the top of the coil assembly to fit the spacer. To install a coil-over assembly you'll need to do that too, plus remove the lower end of the coil. You may have to disturb the hub connection though.
Popular coil-over assemblies are the Bilstein adjustable one or a Rancho QuickLift. There are others, some are more expensive than others. They accomplish the same thing. But the shock has different valving. A FOX for example will be geared more to faster action damping so it can be driven harder and have 'less' road manners.

You should measure you truck from center of hub to fender in the front and back. The difference between the 2 is how much lift will be required to level your exact truck. I suggest, on the 2012, to measure driver side and passenger side. Passenger side may have more fender gap....driver side of vehicles usually sag more than passenger side and yours is old enough that it may show signs of sagging. If so, you'll watn to use the difference from the passenger side as both sides will now be equal after installing a new coil-over assembly.

A Bilstein can be purchased as a unit or just the shock (I think as an assembly?). If purchasing just the shock, the factory coil assembly will need to be disassembled and reassembled to the new shock, using a spring compressor tool.

Depends on your mechanical ability and tool collection and patience if you are capable of doing the work at home.

I think @johnday in BFE has experience with that model years design and can probably offer additional suggestions.

johnday in BFE

iTrader: (1)

I'll try. Firstly, on a 12th gen F150, a 2" level is pretty much max. Much more than that, angles get crazy, run a risk of banging your UCA against the coil spring. For that 2" level, spacers are alright, but I always try to talk a guy into using coilovers. I don't mean Bilsteins, those are more labor intensive, than just going ahead and installing, Rancho, Fox, Halo, whatever. Quite a variance in cost, I'll suggest the Rancho Quicklift, I'm using them. They're more of an entry level coilover, but work well for everyday use, and easy offroading.
The big draw for me recommending coilovers, is everything comes assembled, you get new springs with them, and that would be recommended by me, especially for a truck with age and miles.
There are two different setups for the 12th gen, in 2014, Ford changed the bottom mount from a thrubolt, to a pinbar arrangement, I don't think one is better than the other, but a point to be made to make sure you get a setup specific to your year.
OP, not meant to hijack, I know you've got a 4X2, but I think your questions were answered for you?