13fx4150

I reset my trucks PCM via forscan since I put in new plugs and wires, 1 coil & cleaned the throttle body. Shortly after, my interior dome lights went out. Forscan shows a code B1313 (interior lighting output) for the dome lights and P1639 (vehicle ID block not programmed or corrupt) for the pcm. No engine light. Bed light and mirrors stay on after all doors are closed and locked. Had to turn on dark mode via forscan to get them to turn off.

I did install aftermarket mirror blinkers since one of the factory one was corroded and not functioning. I wonder if this is causing the interior lights to go haywire?

Any ideas? 2011 6.2L

Mirror lights I installed:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08S2WH9VX?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title#aw-udpv3-customer-reviews_feature_div

NYFordTruckMan

What if you disconnected the new blinkers?

13fx4150

My rear dome light would not stay on so I turned it off, reset the codes, and all is well now. I’m guessing the bulb in there might be wonky and throwing off the bcm.

I’m an idiot and reset the entire PCM when I should have only reset the adaptions. Truck is going in for a downshift recall so hopefully Ford will program it properly for free. Fingers crossed.

On a side note, the truck still has a rough idle but has been drastically reduced by replacing a coil, 16 plugs, and wires. I’m guessing the other 7 coils are junk as the one I took apart was heavily corroded inside.

NYFordTruckMan

Could be, but it seems that others had luck with that bulb.

Fellow 6.2L owner?
Mine had sparking coils when I got it, but ran well. The corrosion is probably the remnants of the resistor.

I ended up buying coils on Amazon, a whole set for $100. Pretty good ratings. One did fail, they replaced. If another fails, I will just swap the boots and resistors. I think my original coils are fine.

13fx4150

How many miles on your truck? What’s a sparking coil? I washed my engine bay and the coil and plug furthest from the passenger side had a little bit of water inside. At the same time, truck developed a ticking noise. After replacing both, no more tick.

I tried replacing the boot, spring, and resistor. The spring came out fine, but the resistor was heavily corroded and came out in a million pieces. The grooves/lines within the rubber boot also were breaking off when I was trying to remove the resistor. I watched some YouTube videos and they all recommended to replace the coils when doing plugs.

Do you feel the engine at all while idling?

NYFordTruckMan

Mid 180K mileage. If I looked at the engine at idle, I would see sparks shooting from the coils. Many of the boots fell apart when I took them out. The truck ran pretty good though.

I just inspected ALL my old coils, two are like what you describe, the fins destroyed. All had powder/corroded resistors. The OEM coils are very expensive. Best price is about $65/coil. When cold and when I put in drive there is a very slight "surging." When I had it state inspected at Ford he said some brand new ones do it. He said just enjoy it and be glad you don't have an eco or even a coyote at that mileage . He said there are work trucks they see for oil changes with 500K on that motor.

The cheap set I bought has good reviews but I had one coil fail, have 10K on them already. I watch for misfires with mode $06. If another one fails I will reboot the old coil. Ideally, yeah, a set of Denso or Ford coils is probably the best choice. I am considering it. This engine may be worth it.

13fx4150

Ha! In Canada, the coils are $220 each. I had to order 1 from Florida and have it shipped. Total cost was $130. We are getting boned up here.

My truck surges too when cold but goes away quickly once warmed up a little. After doing the plugs, 1 coil, wires, and cleaning the throttle body, it idles much better now.