LED replacement bulbs
im sorry if this has already been posted somewhere i looked for it first...where can a man find some LEDs to replace inside and out lights? i hate how dim the dome lights are for example but it think it would look good with turn signals ect... is it worth it???
thanks again guys
thanks again guys
I replaced all my exteriors ones with LEDs. If I recall, the rears and fronts are all 9157s (3157 replacements), the licence plate ones were 194 equivalents, reverse were 921 equivalents, and the center stop and cargo lights were 912 equivalents. I think the LED replacements for the 921s and 912s are the same. Check ebay or google for which ones they actually are.
I highly recommend SMD (surface mount diode) LEDs with LEDs pointing in all directions, not just back, as LED lights are very directional, so you want light in all directions to fill up the reflectors and be as bright as possible.
ONE THING THOUGH- if you replace your fronts and rears with LEDs, you will need to add a 3 ohm, 50W power resistor in parallel to 1 LED, each side. Since the LEDs draw such little current, the BCM (truck computer) senses that there is a bulb out and flashes the signals very fast. Adding the resistor adds load and brings the flash rate back to normal.
The resistors need to be power ones, barrel shaped as the best. The calculation for wattage rating is 144/R value. (V squared over R). If R is 3, P = 50W. 75W 3 ohm would be better, my 60W ones are actually a bit brown!
Old video of some 63 LED front ones in the front, 1 with LEDs, the other not. Video of the rears with 9157s- notice that they light faster than the bulb type that is in the hitch. And vid with front LEDs in the signals and mirrors.
I highly recommend SMD (surface mount diode) LEDs with LEDs pointing in all directions, not just back, as LED lights are very directional, so you want light in all directions to fill up the reflectors and be as bright as possible.
ONE THING THOUGH- if you replace your fronts and rears with LEDs, you will need to add a 3 ohm, 50W power resistor in parallel to 1 LED, each side. Since the LEDs draw such little current, the BCM (truck computer) senses that there is a bulb out and flashes the signals very fast. Adding the resistor adds load and brings the flash rate back to normal.
The resistors need to be power ones, barrel shaped as the best. The calculation for wattage rating is 144/R value. (V squared over R). If R is 3, P = 50W. 75W 3 ohm would be better, my 60W ones are actually a bit brown!
Old video of some 63 LED front ones in the front, 1 with LEDs, the other not. Video of the rears with 9157s- notice that they light faster than the bulb type that is in the hitch. And vid with front LEDs in the signals and mirrors.
I'm new to this site and this is my first reply but I'm not new to LED's. I don't recommend installing resistors at all. They do work for what they're intended BUT if you simply replace your factory turn signal relay for a solid state relay it'll achieve the same goal for less money AND you wont be sucking the same juice off your battery that you would with a normal bulb. Also, you won't have to cut/splice any wires like you would if you were to install these resistors. I have done this on my truck and it works great! Those resistors can get hot as hell too so be careful if you use them. This is a much simpler way of fixing the "LED hyper flash".
Last edited by jimford07; Mar 9, 2015 at 11:04 PM. Reason: need to add something
I agree about not using resistors but I think our trucks as with most of late model Fords have the flashers built into the LCM. Someone else will chime in one way or the other. I'm working on my mods but have not gotten to LEDs yet so I have not checked my truck out.





