So here's my update - I am up and running!

I spent a good chunk of Saturday morning on my back underneath it trying to get that stupid bulkhead sleeve in and no go - so I drained and dropped the pan, still no go, I couldn't pry it in with a pry bar, likely because lying on my back under my truck I had little leverage. So I dropped and drained the pan again and STILL couldn't get it in. I even tried the old sleeve. Finally, I lined up the sleeve in the hole, took a small ball peen hammer and managed to position the top of the head of the hammer against it so the handle was pointing straight away from it, then hit it with another hammer, and it went in

I connected the ponytail and before putting the pan back, I turned the key just far enough to hear the engine was gonna crank then took it out. I pumped four quarts in, and started it to let the transmission warm up. I was dismayed to see the familiar wrench light. I let it run for 20 minutes or so then adjusted the fluid level while it was warm. The next time I tried to start it, nothing happened when I turned the key, so I pulled it out and tried again. Started right up and has every time I've tried since, with NO wrench light.

I've driven her four or five times since yesterday gradually increasing my distance each time. For the most part she shifts just fine and drives very smooth. Every so often, I feel a rough shift going from 1st to second but that could be my imagination, or my truck relearning how to shift, or just how an eleven YO truck shifts. I haven't tried pulling codes and I don't intend to if no lights come on. Just happy to have her back.

I do get "Change Engine Oil Soon" warning when I start her even though she's not due for 1,500 miles, I assume it's that I last did it in Feb,so I'll get the oil changed this week.

Thanks for encouraging and indulging me. This is by far one of the most in depth car repair I'v done. Till now just crap like thermostats, sensors, alternators, brakes (with help). That youtube video made this look very doable, which in the end, it was.

Post note: My entire life smells like transmission fluid.

 

Gotta love ATF, stinky stuff, though gear oil is arguably worse

Glad it's all fixed, and, to add - you should have cleared the codes, it's why it still came up with them, and certain codes are a result of certain things taking place, not just faults - some faults will cause something to get disabled, AND throw a code. Even though it's now working (and clearly the sleeve was the issue) i would still go and check/clear codes.

Were you able to get the transmission to 200F? you'll need to do that in order to confirm the thermostat has opened and the self bleed took place - after that's achieved, you can allow it to be as low as 190F for the correct hot idle reading on the dipstick.






Transmission will be re-learning, no way around that, drive cycles will slowly improve as time goes on.


I have to ask, why do you think your oil isn't due for another 1500?
1) You changed the oil 10 months ago, so within reason.
2) Are you expecting and performing 10k mile oil changes? (please don't)
3) What did you reset the oil monitor to when you changed it? (%)
4) The (dumb) IOLM reader on the truck will adjust to certain run conditions, giving you less than 10k miles or 1 year if it's algorithm detects less than idea driving conditions.

 

TH
his clip fell out the pan when I pulled it to change the lead frame. I can't find where it goes

pulled the pan to change the lead frame... I had what looks to be a clip or spring that fell out from near the range guide

 

Strange. No one ever replied to your message. What did you find out?

 

Did you ever find anything?? I just had the same issue

 

One way clutch bias spring. It helps reduce the clunking noise from the one way clutch.

 

is it just there for noise? Or do i need to put it back in place?