hey what was the final result. I just did mine and it won’t start and I have it clipped in properly

 

Mine was Dead. It would not respond to the computer so the dealer had to put in another. I was 1 misaligned and two it was dead. From what I understand in all my research if you do indeed have it aligned right it should start?? as long as trans in park as it was when you took apart it should start. thats why didnt start as i was misaligned. it being dead it wouldnt just thrown codes again but would have started.

Thats what I know...YMMV......good luck!!!!!

 

I just did the lead frame on mine a few weeks ago. Double and triple checked all was installed correctly. Mine would start fine and no codes...however would not go into gear. Engine would just spin/rev when in any gear. I had it towed to transmission shop. Tech verified I had it all hooked up right. He replaced the valve body and said it was all good. I drove it about 15 miles and shift indicator on dash started flickering and truck started shifting all over the place. Took it back to shop. Tech said that must be a bad lead frame that I received/installed originally as it was showing a range selector fault now. He ordered a new lead frame and installed it and truck has been fine for a couple weeks now. Just my luck to get a bad lead frame the first go around but at least the supplier warrantied it so I didn't have to pay again. Did end up paying for a valve body which I most likely didn't need.

 

I took mine apart again and reinstall it because the first time I aligned the lead frame in the proper spot but when I pur it back in the vehicle I didn’t align it with the cable for the shifter so it must have unaligned it’s alittle and caused it to think it was in gear

 

wow seems alot of people having trouble with getting bad lead frames...Ive never really seen any other part of replaced or had replaced that such a failure rate than these lead frames...........

I thought my case was out of the norm....but...many of you seem to have gotten back leed frames....both self install and shop install...

Well good to go now. Good luck to anyone reading this about to do theirs.....

all that work for naught.......

 

So I'm having the same issues. I just finished replacing my Molded lead frame and tried to start it yesterday and nothing. Tried to jump it with my car bacause the entire process took me almost a month (a broken arm on the part of my GF delayed things.). I assumed it was a dead battery but AAA jumped it and it still wouldn't start. They even put in a new battery and it won't start. Now I begin the process of troubleshooting in this order:

1) Check the ponytail connector (since this is the easiest option and doesn't cause me to drain it again. Pretty sure the connector is in place but it could be that the bulkhead sleeve isn't properly seated

2) Drop the pan again and check my work including the trans range sensor (which I'm virtually certain is aligned correctly)

3) Assume the lead frame I got was bad and replace it

4) Go to a shop/dealer

A few questions I would greatly appreciate the answers to:

1. Can I reuse the brand new transmission fluid if I drain it into something spotlessly clean?

2. Do I need to have the system full of fluid to even start it? Or can I see if it will start with maybe a quart or two then top it off if it starts?

3.. I assume there's no need to replace the brand new gasket, bulkhead sleeve, filter and seal I bought for this job

4. Has anyone had luck with the Dorman version of the Molded Lead Frame? It's sort of mixed on amazon. Or does anyone know where to find a brand new one?

I greatly appreciate any help/guidance you guys can give me...

 

If you pump the fluid out the hole with a clean transfer pump in a clean container it could be reused, Dorman makes a pan with a drain plug.
You could give one crank if it starts and turn it off immediately. You could pull the fuel pump relay in the back to see if it cranks but will not start. You could also disconnect the starter wire and check for voltage. Maybe it is some other no start issue?
Get scan tool like forscan and confirm the trans switch is reporting correctly or not.
Pan gasket is supposedly lifetime. No reason to change the filter and other new parts too.

I heard the dealer part is not being made anymore, that may or may not be true. I believe you can buy a valve body that contains the lead frame.

 

#2: The method for filling it is actually to add ~3.5qt, start the engine, then add ~3.5 more while running, until full. (assuming ~7qt was drained)

 

Yes check that bulkhead sleave connection, the fordtechmakuloco video details that with measurements to confirm.

1) yes you can cleanly reuse the fluid you just put in there.

2) fill trans until it gets to the filler neck before starting.

3) all can be reused, gasket is multi use from ford.

4) I imagine this could be a crapshoot.

 

Oh, yeah, anecdote... The gasket is "lifetime", which means 'until the warranty runs out'. However, mine has been through 3 removals for service, 2 pans, and 205,000 miles. No leaks.