Just got my first F150! Advice needed!!
06-24-2017, 06:05 PM
#1
Just got my first F150! Advice needed!!
Super excited to buy my first F150. It's by no means new but looks damn near new. 2011 Ecoboost with 122k miles. I need advice on a few things..
Spark plugs - I got some SP 534 to install. I was told gap .035 and no anti-seeze is this correct? It has the original spark plugs.. any advice on this was be very helpful... do you guy tq them in? Should I be concerned when removing them?
Oil change... Motorcraft FL-500S, Penzoil Platinum 5w-30. I read the oil change was a pain in the rear on these?
Trans was never maintained although it's almost all highway miles since it was owned by a buddy.. not sure if that helps but 122k and I need to know what to do for the transmission to get it back maintained correctly
The biggest problem is a thud stopping and taking off. I read this is a slip yoke issue and can usually be corrected with grease. Are there any good how to videos on this? Can I do this at home? I have always done my own mechanic work after owning many race cars but the whole 2 piece shaft is a new monster for me.
Again thx for any advice.. I could not be happier overall with the truck and it's partner in the garage is a Mustang so I am all Ford!
Spark plugs - I got some SP 534 to install. I was told gap .035 and no anti-seeze is this correct? It has the original spark plugs.. any advice on this was be very helpful... do you guy tq them in? Should I be concerned when removing them?
Oil change... Motorcraft FL-500S, Penzoil Platinum 5w-30. I read the oil change was a pain in the rear on these?
Trans was never maintained although it's almost all highway miles since it was owned by a buddy.. not sure if that helps but 122k and I need to know what to do for the transmission to get it back maintained correctly
The biggest problem is a thud stopping and taking off. I read this is a slip yoke issue and can usually be corrected with grease. Are there any good how to videos on this? Can I do this at home? I have always done my own mechanic work after owning many race cars but the whole 2 piece shaft is a new monster for me.
Again thx for any advice.. I could not be happier overall with the truck and it's partner in the garage is a Mustang so I am all Ford!
06-24-2017, 06:15 PM
#2
FX4RoadWarrior
YouTube channel Fordtechmakuloco will have the video on how to change the transmission oil and spark plugs.
The oil change, make sure you have the truck level or the oil spilling from the filter removal (its mounted sideways) will make a huge mess.
drain plug torque is 20 ft/lbs
I don't know about the drive line clunk, never had it and nobody I know with an f150 has had it.
The oil change, make sure you have the truck level or the oil spilling from the filter removal (its mounted sideways) will make a huge mess.
drain plug torque is 20 ft/lbs
I don't know about the drive line clunk, never had it and nobody I know with an f150 has had it.
06-24-2017, 06:21 PM
#3
YouTube channel Fordtechmakuloco will have the video on how to change the transmission oil and spark plugs.
The oil change, make sure you have the truck level or the oil spilling from the filter removal (its mounted sideways) will make a huge mess.
drain plug torque is 20 ft/lbs
I don't know about the drive line clunk, never had it and nobody I know with an f150 has had it.
The oil change, make sure you have the truck level or the oil spilling from the filter removal (its mounted sideways) will make a huge mess.
drain plug torque is 20 ft/lbs
I don't know about the drive line clunk, never had it and nobody I know with an f150 has had it.
Will have it in garage leveled floor so that should work.
Surprised to hear that with the clunk as I have found tons and tons of threads on the issue. Just trying to find the best video to resolve the issue... I hope!
06-24-2017, 06:24 PM
#4
Also, he ran 87 octane all the time.. any benefit to running higher with these trucks? I have no tune. Also, I read NOT to use fuel injection cleaner on it... is this true as well?
06-24-2017, 06:24 PM
#5
Senior Member
Spark plug gap is usually best from .28-.30 from what I've read. I set mine at .30.
Anti-seize is up to you really as long as you are careful and don't overdue it or get it close to the grounding strap it can help but it is not really needed.
Always torque things to spec! You don't want to have issues later because you over or under tightened the plugs.
Oil changes are a pain if your have the skid plates. It blocks the oil filter and is a pain to get it to drain nicely without making a huge mess or removing the skid plates. I find putting a small bowl (like cereal bowl size) under the filter works well. No skid plates and not an issue.
Trans is a sealed unit (I believe on the 2011 it is) and manual says to service at 150,000 miles. Probably easier just to have someone with the right machine to flush the tranny do it for the $200 or so cost. I plan on doing mine at 100,000 miles for my piece of mind, although it may be sooner depending on my trans temps when towing and if they keep getting hotter then I will do it sooner.
Google the slip yoke fix and there will be more results than you care to read and some videos.
Anti-seize is up to you really as long as you are careful and don't overdue it or get it close to the grounding strap it can help but it is not really needed.
Always torque things to spec! You don't want to have issues later because you over or under tightened the plugs.
Oil changes are a pain if your have the skid plates. It blocks the oil filter and is a pain to get it to drain nicely without making a huge mess or removing the skid plates. I find putting a small bowl (like cereal bowl size) under the filter works well. No skid plates and not an issue.
Trans is a sealed unit (I believe on the 2011 it is) and manual says to service at 150,000 miles. Probably easier just to have someone with the right machine to flush the tranny do it for the $200 or so cost. I plan on doing mine at 100,000 miles for my piece of mind, although it may be sooner depending on my trans temps when towing and if they keep getting hotter then I will do it sooner.
Google the slip yoke fix and there will be more results than you care to read and some videos.
06-24-2017, 06:27 PM
#6
Senior Member
Higher octane isn't really needed and there is very little benefit compared to cost. Run top tier fuel and that will be a better investment than higher octane.
06-24-2017, 06:53 PM
#7
Fuel injector cleaners don't actually do much since it is direct injection. They do cause hotter burns though that can overheat your turbos so be careful.
Higher octane isn't really needed and there is very little benefit compared to cost. Run top tier fuel and that will be a better investment than higher octane.
Higher octane isn't really needed and there is very little benefit compared to cost. Run top tier fuel and that will be a better investment than higher octane.
Trending Topics
06-24-2017, 07:11 PM
#9
Senior Member
I second .028-.030 gap and a light coat of nickel based anti-sieze, staying back a thread from the tip.
06-24-2017, 08:52 PM
#10
FORD lifer
I don't know if the ecoboost is much different than my 5.0, but oil changes are are quick and easy. I changed my plugs at 100,000 miles and they still looked good enough that I could have just tightened up the gaps a touch, and re-used them.
I did take it in to put on the new serpentine belts, because the front one was a pain to get to, although it also looked like it could run another 100,000.
As far as fuel-injector cleaner goes, the only thing you will hurt by using it is your wallet. Let's do the math, a 36 gallon tank takes 2 cans of Berryman B12, @$3.17 per can at Walmart, which would add $0.17 per gallon onto your fuel cost.
It is beneficial to use it once in a while though, as an aggressive cleaner will keep everything whistle clean.
If you do decide to start modding / improving your truck, this is the place to be - lots of good advice and experience here.
I did take it in to put on the new serpentine belts, because the front one was a pain to get to, although it also looked like it could run another 100,000.
As far as fuel-injector cleaner goes, the only thing you will hurt by using it is your wallet. Let's do the math, a 36 gallon tank takes 2 cans of Berryman B12, @$3.17 per can at Walmart, which would add $0.17 per gallon onto your fuel cost.
It is beneficial to use it once in a while though, as an aggressive cleaner will keep everything whistle clean.
If you do decide to start modding / improving your truck, this is the place to be - lots of good advice and experience here.