ksujeff99

I have a 2013 Platinum 4x4 with just under 60k. I'm getting a grinding/humming/rumbling noise from (I believe) my passenger side IWE. It goes away when I put the truck in 4x4 auto (which engages the half shafts but not the transfer case). It only happens to me turning right, and only on a portion of the turn when the wheel is at a certain angle.

I took both front wheels off today and started testing. Here's what I found. Basically everything performed as expected.

1. with the truck off, both wheels turn the half shaft.
2. starting the truck and putting in 2WD, both wheels turn freely without turning the half shaft
3. starting the truck and putting in 4WD, both wheels turn the half shaft
4. pulling the vacuum hose from the IWE and manually applying a vacuum with a brake bleeder disengages the IWE and the wheel turns freely without turning the half shaft
5. pulling the vacuum hose from the solenoid and manually applying a vacuum disengages the IWEs and both wheels turn freely without turning the half shaft. Also, the vacuum does not bleed. It stayed at the same level on the gauge for several minutes until I disconnected it.

Is there something else that happens with the IWE that I'm missing? Something about turning the wheels that causes the IWE to partially engage, even when it's under vacuum?

Sidenote: I do have powertrain coverage until 60k but I don't want to take it in to find out the IWEs are ok and it's something like the solenoid or vacuum line that's not covered. That's why I'm trying to diagnose myself.

Thanks for any help!

Blue2016XL

Not sure why it only does it when turning other than maybe the angle of the wheel puts enough strain on the hose that it causes it to leak a little. Or you have a bad IWE that leaks when a certain angle and pressure is applied.

However, quite a few people have found that replacing the check valve has solved most of the IWE issues. Yes, the check valve can work intermittently.

ksujeff99

Thanks blue2010. I forgot about the check valve. Do you happen to know where it's located on a 2013?

Blue2016XL

Drivers side. If you open the hood, go to the driver's side by the firewall. Solenoid should pretty much be right in front of you (not directly on the firewall though). Check valve should be on the line from solenoid to the IWEs.

If that doesn't fix it, the next thing I'd replace would be the solenoid.

FLXLT

Only thing different from our trucks vs one in the video is the location of the valve, which blue2010 has provided.

raisin

7L1Z-9H465-B Solenoid $14.10, Gen 12 check valve and hose asm. BL3Z-3A788-A $25.26, Gen 13 check valve and hose asm. FL3Z-3A788-A $6.12. I got check valve rest will be here couple days, been waiting 3 weeks.


Check valve YG-360 can be had at amazon for $10 and can be used as replacement. One end is bigger dia. but works.


I have '14 so its gen 12 but I ordered hose asm for gen 13 because its only 6 bucks.


Someone had a bad hose going to IWE that only failed in turns. It had a break by the clamp. It was a higher mileage truck.

joedotmac

I have noise from the IWE's when slowing from 15mph to a stop. I'm going to try the three orifice check valve Motorcraft YG-429. Unconfirmed if it's the same check valve, but going to give it a try. If this doesn't work I intend to follow with the 7L1Z-9H465-B Solenoid, and then the entire hose and check valve assembly BL3Z-3A788-A.

ksujeff99

aj_engineer

I've been having a very similar issue (although when turning left mostly). My issue is rather temperature related and wondering if yours was as well. It appears generally only in colder temperatures (below freezing especially).

Blue2016XL

I would check the connector down by the wheel on the frame that the rubber line from the IWE connects to on the plastic line on both sides. These have been known to hold vacuum when the wheels are straight but, while turning the rubber line tends to pull on the connector and it opens the crack, thus creating a leak that is sealed up once the wheels are straight again.