Hawk LTS Pads and rotors...
#72
Senior Member
Ask him if he knew about our trucks having a different pad for the outside of the caliper than the one on the inside. You won't have four identical pads like most vehicles. You are shipped two inside and two outside. They have to be installed correctly. Those that have installed the pads wrong have had many strange experiences after it was done wrong, your symptoms included.
#73
Senior Member
#74
Senior Member
#76
Senior Member
Thread Starter
If you didn't know or notice that they were different, easy mistake to just grab a bundle, cut the strap, and install those two pads on the same side.
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Sweatmachine (04-19-2015)
#77
Boost :)
As soon as you said Chevy tech I had a feeling that they wouldn't know about the inside and outside pads. GM doesn't do that so unless he works on F-150's on a regular basis, he wouldn't have a clue about the inside/outside pads.
#78
Senior Member
I was worried about the pads as the Hawk pads I got did not have 2 different sizes for inside and outside. I doubled checked with Hawk's website and the part number was correct. When removing the old pads they did not have 2 sizes either. Everything was the same. Maybe they changed after 2009? Got done with install and bed-in procedure on the front rotors and pads. My god those rotors were glued to the hub. Took about 30 min of hammering and penetrating oil on driver side just to get the rotor off. Got that side done and went to the passenger side. It was worse. Spent hour hammering and spraying penetrating oil. I was about to give up until I saw this video:
I thought what the hell, my arm was about a wet noodle from swinging the hammer. All I can say is it was a lifesaver. No kidding minute and half it was off. I would highly recommend using this method over hammering the ever loving #$%@ out of it. Noticeable difference on braking now. I was getting the pulsing feeling before when braking and these do not pulse at all and feel strong. Glad I got this done!
I thought what the hell, my arm was about a wet noodle from swinging the hammer. All I can say is it was a lifesaver. No kidding minute and half it was off. I would highly recommend using this method over hammering the ever loving #$%@ out of it. Noticeable difference on braking now. I was getting the pulsing feeling before when braking and these do not pulse at all and feel strong. Glad I got this done!
#79
Senior Member
Glad it got fixed and hopefully no damage done to any of your new brake components.
As soon as you said Chevy tech I had a feeling that they wouldn't know about the inside and outside pads. GM doesn't do that so unless he works on F-150's on a regular basis, he wouldn't have a clue about the inside/outside pads.
As soon as you said Chevy tech I had a feeling that they wouldn't know about the inside and outside pads. GM doesn't do that so unless he works on F-150's on a regular basis, he wouldn't have a clue about the inside/outside pads.
Brakes/rotors still seem solid. They checked out and everything has been good since. Appreciate your guys input on it!
#80
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Warning: If you have a 2011 or newer with EPAS, DO NOT start wailing on the rotor with a hammer unless you disconnect the battery or feel like buying a new and quite expensive EPAS steering rack...
Also, these are the pad differences... Visually, they are not very different, but the pads are most certainly different for inside and out. And if you don't get it correct, well see the post with rubbing brakes above. Definitely for 2010-2014, not sure about 2009.
Last edited by pfbz; 04-19-2015 at 11:02 PM.
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RES4CUE (04-20-2015)