Hawk LTS Pads and rotors...
04-02-2015, 05:01 PM
#41
Can any of you guys comment if the inner (piston side) front pads have shims that match the contour of the pad backing plate?
My hawk pads look like this:
Attachment 378061
When my stock pads look like this:
Attachment 378064
I'm trying to get a hold oh hawk's customer service but I never remember to call until they're already closed.
My hawk pads look like this:
Attachment 378061
When my stock pads look like this:
Attachment 378064
I'm trying to get a hold oh hawk's customer service but I never remember to call until they're already closed.
04-02-2015, 05:14 PM
#42
Congrats man! Our first child arrived two weeks ago, and I think the F-150 has been feeling a bit neglected!
04-06-2015, 08:45 AM
#43
THRSTE-ECO, I went ahead and installed the hawk pads with the shims they came with. I never did get a hold oh hawk's customer service. I'd say that each piston makes about 90% contact with the shim. They definitely ate an improvement over the centric pads I had on there for the last 2 weeks!
04-08-2015, 11:29 AM
#45
THRSTE-ECO, I went ahead and installed the hawk pads with the shims they came with. I never did get a hold oh hawk's customer service. I'd say that each piston makes about 90% contact with the shim. They definitely ate an improvement over the centric pads I had on there for the last 2 weeks!
04-10-2015, 10:21 PM
#48
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Installed the front set and rear pads yesterday...
Everything fit perfectly, and after being bedded in, *way* more braking force and modulation than stock. :TwoThumbsup!
Looks like the price fluctuates a bit... Now up to $205 shipped on Amazon, but still a great deal for Hawk LTS pads + rotors!
I had about 45,000 miles on the original pads and rotors with lots of mountain driving but no real towing to speak of. I'd say I'm typically pretty hard on my brakes as well. Original pads did last pretty long, but I think at the expense of great braking. I always thought my truck was under-braked, at least compared to the awesome hot-rod ecoboost motor! No more...
I ended up replacing the rear rotors as well, mostly because the edges were rusty as hell. My local carquest had generic rotors for about $35 each. Not as nice as the Hawk front's, but to me, not worth even considering turning rotors when I can get replacements for that cheap.
A couple of random shots from the install:
Old front rotor still on, caliper off. Note the pistons are already retracted.... If your replacing the pads and rotors, it's way easier to use a small pry-bar to push the pistons back before you even remove the caliper or old pads.
Also note that as suggested in another thread, on the fronts, I just removed the caliper mounting bolts, didn't bother removing the caliper pin bolts. I had recently greased the pins anyway, and it's easy enough to lube everything else removing the calipers and mounts together.
Front rotors were pretty stuck on the hubs. You can run bolts into the threaded holes on the rotor to pop off even the most stubborn rotors.
Plenty of corrosion on the OEM rotors... I've worked on many 10, 20, 30-year old Porsches with original rotors that have WAY less corrosion than this 3-year old Ford... Now that a new F150 cost about as much as a Porsche, maybe they should up their game a bit?
New pads vs. old, new rotors vs. old. My front pads were done... Not at metal yet, but very close! Hawk pads come pre-chamfered. Also remember the pads with the "ears" go on the inside ONLY! The linked install thread above looks like they used both eared pads on a single side?
New and old rear pads... And the silly "noise damper" caliper pin bolt. You have to remove these with a 10mm open-end wrench instead of a socket. Seems like a recipe for stripping that bolt... Make sure you use a quality 10mm wrench and it is fully seated or you'll likely round the threads.
Everything fit perfectly, and after being bedded in, *way* more braking force and modulation than stock. :TwoThumbsup!
Looks like the price fluctuates a bit... Now up to $205 shipped on Amazon, but still a great deal for Hawk LTS pads + rotors!
I had about 45,000 miles on the original pads and rotors with lots of mountain driving but no real towing to speak of. I'd say I'm typically pretty hard on my brakes as well. Original pads did last pretty long, but I think at the expense of great braking. I always thought my truck was under-braked, at least compared to the awesome hot-rod ecoboost motor! No more...
I ended up replacing the rear rotors as well, mostly because the edges were rusty as hell. My local carquest had generic rotors for about $35 each. Not as nice as the Hawk front's, but to me, not worth even considering turning rotors when I can get replacements for that cheap.
A couple of random shots from the install:
Old front rotor still on, caliper off. Note the pistons are already retracted.... If your replacing the pads and rotors, it's way easier to use a small pry-bar to push the pistons back before you even remove the caliper or old pads.
Also note that as suggested in another thread, on the fronts, I just removed the caliper mounting bolts, didn't bother removing the caliper pin bolts. I had recently greased the pins anyway, and it's easy enough to lube everything else removing the calipers and mounts together.
Front rotors were pretty stuck on the hubs. You can run bolts into the threaded holes on the rotor to pop off even the most stubborn rotors.
Plenty of corrosion on the OEM rotors... I've worked on many 10, 20, 30-year old Porsches with original rotors that have WAY less corrosion than this 3-year old Ford... Now that a new F150 cost about as much as a Porsche, maybe they should up their game a bit?
New pads vs. old, new rotors vs. old. My front pads were done... Not at metal yet, but very close! Hawk pads come pre-chamfered. Also remember the pads with the "ears" go on the inside ONLY! The linked install thread above looks like they used both eared pads on a single side?
New and old rear pads... And the silly "noise damper" caliper pin bolt. You have to remove these with a 10mm open-end wrench instead of a socket. Seems like a recipe for stripping that bolt... Make sure you use a quality 10mm wrench and it is fully seated or you'll likely round the threads.
Last edited by pfbz; 04-10-2015 at 10:41 PM.
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one2nine (04-11-2015)
04-11-2015, 10:47 AM
#50
Boost :)
I just finally had time to install mine yesterday. Install took maybe 90 minutes total. Would have been much shorter if those pesky caliper bolts didn't have red loc-tite on them 
Install was a breeze, everything fit exactly as it should, and no more shaking steering wheel for me. Stops extremely smooth and very well. I can't say if they stop better or faster and won't be able to speak much to dust since i have black wheels, but I know the LTS pads are a low dust pad from experiences with them on Supras and other cars in the past.
WELL WELL worth the $179 paid
Install was a breeze, everything fit exactly as it should, and no more shaking steering wheel for me. Stops extremely smooth and very well. I can't say if they stop better or faster and won't be able to speak much to dust since i have black wheels, but I know the LTS pads are a low dust pad from experiences with them on Supras and other cars in the past.
WELL WELL worth the $179 paid
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Sweatmachine (04-11-2015)