criminy. Getting that crank bolt off with an impact (I think maybe) I saw it shift. I did use some nail polish making marks on the phaser and chain (just didn't show in the pics) 213,000 miles....

crawling under today..

 

Thanks for that advice. I probably would not have found that until I started the removal and that would not have fun.

I'm assuming the crank seal needs replacing. Please look at pic and see how oil/dirt caked up around it (of course except where I've clean it.

Question. After all bolts are out it looks as though I'll need to slide the cover forward to get by that crank seal. Sound right?

Currently in the process of cleaning all bolts before removal and seeing if there is anything I missed.

Crank seal probaby leaking according to how the dirt/grime patterned around it.


Crank sensor disconnected. Many thanks! 🫵

 

Unless you cleaned the circle area around the front crank seal, its not leaking.
Unless the shiny clean area was grimy also.
Regardless should replace it. Just slam a new one in using a flat 2x4 block of wood as a driver till its only flush with the cover.
The other grim is from thetiming cover gaskets.

Dont forget the 4 front engine oil pan bolts going into the timing cover.

But yes, using a prybar, pry the top of the timing cover away from the engine & you need to clear the front of the crank snout & pull the cover out, easy.

dont bother cleaning the bolts till you get them out.

 

Im curious to see if the passenger side timing chain guide is broken.
The inside one closest to the waterpump cavity.
That one is super fragile.

 

Nice, thanks.

Yeah, the shiny area is where I cleaned it throughly. Should have taken a pic before but the spray pattern of oil looked to be directly coming from crank seal.

Gotcha on 4 lower bolts and the cleaning was primarily focused around the flange of each bolt. Just to avoid grime falling inside.

Starting the task now..

Removal time.

 

then yes, front crank seal
Look at the dampner where the seal rides & see if its grooved,
Hit it lightly with a light scotchbrite pad to knock down the groove if it is...

 

might also grasp your head around if the crank moved before you go any further after you get the timing cover off, before you pull the wedge assuming youre going to pull the wedge since the covers off.
put the gear back on the chain, line-up your paint marks....
We lightly put vice grips just behind the cam gear on the cam to rotate the cam to slide the gear back on.


Like I said, I cant help you with timing it correctly, way to much involved & this motor makes my head spin with the various markingings on the cam gear depeding if they have been changed ever, some just have a I, oe have a L, some have a R, etc...
I read the book over & over to not crew it up.
But ford also tells you to install the driver side chain, then rotate the motor xxx degrees & install the left chain.....
They also tell you to take out numerous rocker arms prior to taking the chain & gear off...

Makes my head hurt!!!

 

ugg.

Ok, it's off and slides, guides look ok. Passenger side looks bent do to the wedge. Tensioners have what think the right amount of spring in um.

Just going to leave the wedge in place and pray timing stays right.

If you see any concern areas on the pics don't hesitate.

Also, since I broke the oil pan seal I'm assuming it will need to be replaced or will cleaning those surfaces completely and dabbing gasket maker at the joints be ok?

It's off.

Passenger side.

Driver's side.

 

And thinking of replacing lower costs items aroung the timing, slides, glides, tensioners, not phasers, or chains.

gotta see if it's going to run and what the other damage looks like. Hoping to get those 2 exhaust downpipe flange bolts removed. Pretty sure that's all thats holding the cylinder head/exhaust in place.

 

Just saw the tensioner bolt going to CH and slides bolts. criminy.. this outta be fun.