Hard to program garage door
07-17-2012, 08:38 PM
#21
Same thing here...Very weak transmitter, I have to have my truck right next to the garage door before it will work. If your having problems, try getting closer, I thought mine was faulty for the first 2 weeks I owned the truck.
07-18-2012, 11:04 PM
#22
Member
Thread Starter
Finally, it worked... I don't have any idea why... I was so desperate that I just pressed on any buttons while swearing The hell out of me, and I heared my girlfriend in the garage, screaming IT WORK!!!
So for you guys that it didn't worked, the best way to do it is the random style, and maybe, a little bit of feminine touch!!!!
Good luck!!!
So for you guys that it didn't worked, the best way to do it is the random style, and maybe, a little bit of feminine touch!!!!
Good luck!!!
07-19-2012, 08:27 AM
#24
Senior Member
I think it would be better if the truck gave just a little more feedback to let you know when you're ready for the next step. There are three lights - maybe they could flash two at a time when you're ready to move to step 2 or something. Mine programmed easily the second time but the first time I held on to the 1-3 combo buttons for about 10 seconds because I was waiting for it to do something more to let me know it's ready to move to the next step.
07-20-2012, 02:12 PM
#25
Slower traffic keep RIGHT
Originally Posted by scorpio333
Maybe try and extend your door opener antenna? I've got a little wire about a foot long. Not sure if you can splice more wire to it and run it to the right above the door opening.
07-20-2012, 08:30 PM
#26
Senior Member
My opener is 10 years old - Overhead Door "Code Dodger". I had to push a button in door opener to "learn" the new signal coming from homelink in the truck. Owners manual directions are ok, at best, but got me through the set-up. I will agree that the signal isn't as strong as I would like. I, too, have to be close to the door for it to work. It does work consistently, so no complaints there.
07-20-2012, 11:34 PM
#27
Member
My house had an attached 1 car garage. I added another garage 32 feet wide and the full 34 foot depth of the house. The doors are identical aluminum. The house and original garage had fiberglass insulation in the wall and foil covered foam sheets applied to the outside of the house before vinyl siding with built-in foam insulation was applied. The addition is the same except that the foam sheets applied to the outside of the house under the siding is not foil covered.
I installed 2 identical Master Mechanic door openers. They were easy to program and worked just fine immediately. However, after a couple of months the door on the original garage quit opening from the truck, although it would still open with the original remote. I reprogrammed the truck again for that door and it has worked ever since.
With the garage doors shut, the truck has to be within 75 feet of the original door to open it, but will open the door on the addition from 200 to 250 feet away. With the garage doors open, the truck can shut either / both of them from 200 to 250 feet away. If the addition door is open, then I can open the original door from 200 to 250 feet away.
The only explanation I can offer is that the signals are blocked somewhat by the foil backing on the foam insulation on the original garage and by the aluminum doors. The fact that the openers behave differently with the garage doors open or shut, indicate to me that the aluminum doors are blocking the signal somewhat.
I haven't bothered to extend the antenna wire on the openers, but if I did, I would certainly start with a wire exactly 4 times as long as the original.
I am very interested to see if those of you who have to be close to the door to open it, can be further away to shut it? And what kind of material is your garage door? And is there a foil backing on your house wrap, insulation, or siding?
I installed 2 identical Master Mechanic door openers. They were easy to program and worked just fine immediately. However, after a couple of months the door on the original garage quit opening from the truck, although it would still open with the original remote. I reprogrammed the truck again for that door and it has worked ever since.
With the garage doors shut, the truck has to be within 75 feet of the original door to open it, but will open the door on the addition from 200 to 250 feet away. With the garage doors open, the truck can shut either / both of them from 200 to 250 feet away. If the addition door is open, then I can open the original door from 200 to 250 feet away.
The only explanation I can offer is that the signals are blocked somewhat by the foil backing on the foam insulation on the original garage and by the aluminum doors. The fact that the openers behave differently with the garage doors open or shut, indicate to me that the aluminum doors are blocking the signal somewhat.
I haven't bothered to extend the antenna wire on the openers, but if I did, I would certainly start with a wire exactly 4 times as long as the original.
I am very interested to see if those of you who have to be close to the door to open it, can be further away to shut it? And what kind of material is your garage door? And is there a foil backing on your house wrap, insulation, or siding?
07-21-2012, 11:12 AM
#28
got mule?
My house had an attached 1 car garage. I added another garage 32 feet wide and the full 34 foot depth of the house. The doors are identical aluminum. The house and original garage had fiberglass insulation in the wall and foil covered foam sheets applied to the outside of the house before vinyl siding with built-in foam insulation was applied. The addition is the same except that the foam sheets applied to the outside of the house under the siding is not foil covered.
I installed 2 identical Master Mechanic door openers. They were easy to program and worked just fine immediately. However, after a couple of months the door on the original garage quit opening from the truck, although it would still open with the original remote. I reprogrammed the truck again for that door and it has worked ever since.
With the garage doors shut, the truck has to be within 75 feet of the original door to open it, but will open the door on the addition from 200 to 250 feet away. With the garage doors open, the truck can shut either / both of them from 200 to 250 feet away. If the addition door is open, then I can open the original door from 200 to 250 feet away.
The only explanation I can offer is that the signals are blocked somewhat by the foil backing on the foam insulation on the original garage and by the aluminum doors. The fact that the openers behave differently with the garage doors open or shut, indicate to me that the aluminum doors are blocking the signal somewhat.
I haven't bothered to extend the antenna wire on the openers, but if I did, I would certainly start with a wire exactly 4 times as long as the original.
I am very interested to see if those of you who have to be close to the door to open it, can be further away to shut it? And what kind of material is your garage door? And is there a foil backing on your house wrap, insulation, or siding?
I installed 2 identical Master Mechanic door openers. They were easy to program and worked just fine immediately. However, after a couple of months the door on the original garage quit opening from the truck, although it would still open with the original remote. I reprogrammed the truck again for that door and it has worked ever since.
With the garage doors shut, the truck has to be within 75 feet of the original door to open it, but will open the door on the addition from 200 to 250 feet away. With the garage doors open, the truck can shut either / both of them from 200 to 250 feet away. If the addition door is open, then I can open the original door from 200 to 250 feet away.
The only explanation I can offer is that the signals are blocked somewhat by the foil backing on the foam insulation on the original garage and by the aluminum doors. The fact that the openers behave differently with the garage doors open or shut, indicate to me that the aluminum doors are blocking the signal somewhat.
I haven't bothered to extend the antenna wire on the openers, but if I did, I would certainly start with a wire exactly 4 times as long as the original.
I am very interested to see if those of you who have to be close to the door to open it, can be further away to shut it? And what kind of material is your garage door? And is there a foil backing on your house wrap, insulation, or siding?
On a serious note, I'm wondering what some of you guys are considering "close". Our garage doors are about 60-70 feet from the street and the opener works from there. Haven't tried it from up or down the street, I would expect it not to work due to no line of sight (hills and trees).
10-18-2012, 10:17 AM
#29
Senior Member
I've given up on trying to program mine. Brand new home with a brand new Linear garage door opener. Doesn't look like it's supported by Car2u. My wife' wife's 2011 Toyota Sienna has no issue though with Homelink.
10-18-2012, 05:19 PM
#30
I've got a 3 year old Linear Garage Door Opener, but for some reason can't get the opener on my 2012 FX4 to work. I'll try the tip above that someone said to have the truck door closed... I've tried everything else I can think of :s