Grinding noise during light acceleration
#41
blue - thanks. I will be going that direction.
Just wanted to make sure that I have correct part number for check valve.
Motorcraft YG429
Thanks
Just wanted to make sure that I have correct part number for check valve.
Motorcraft YG429
Thanks
#42
The following users liked this post:
Blue2016XL (03-30-2018)
#44
Perfect! Thanks
Will have check valve tomorrow. And hope that fixes it.
If not. Onto step two and replace solenoid.
Will have check valve tomorrow. And hope that fixes it.
If not. Onto step two and replace solenoid.
#45
Thanks for everyone's advice.
Replaced the check valve today and it seems the "grinding" has stopped.
The old check valve would allow a bit of air through it before it would close up when I blew through it. So the valve seemed to have an issue.
Will monitor over the next week but hopefully this $9.00 fix will be it.
Replaced the check valve today and it seems the "grinding" has stopped.
The old check valve would allow a bit of air through it before it would close up when I blew through it. So the valve seemed to have an issue.
Will monitor over the next week but hopefully this $9.00 fix will be it.
#46
Thanks for everyone's advice.
Replaced the check valve today and it seems the "grinding" has stopped.
The old check valve would allow a bit of air through it before it would close up when I blew through it. So the valve seemed to have an issue.
Will monitor over the next week but hopefully this $9.00 fix will be it.
Replaced the check valve today and it seems the "grinding" has stopped.
The old check valve would allow a bit of air through it before it would close up when I blew through it. So the valve seemed to have an issue.
Will monitor over the next week but hopefully this $9.00 fix will be it.
Glad to hear. Keep us posted!!
#47
I took my truck to another mechanic to look at. He drove my truck and we listened. As usual the noise started after 4 miles when truck got warm. It is now obvious to me and the mechanic that the noise is not coming from the front of the truck. That definitely rules out tensioner or anything else under the hood. The mechanic thinks it is clutch packs in the rear differential. He said he would have to take apart the rear and slide the rear axles out. Then find the messed up clutches and replace. Said it cost roughly $1000 for parts and labor. If I could only cut a hole in the bottom of my truck and listen down there while I was driving to know. Anyone else thinks that could be the problem?
#49
leightonen, i also tried all the other IWE replacements, took to multiple mechanics, checked hubs/wheel bearing, vacuum lines, check valves, solenoids blah blah blah not worked...finally got it resolved. took it to my Transmission guy and apparently there is a formula that FORD uses to fix this issue while truck is still under warranty (after warranty expired they tell you to replace whole transmission). so here it goes Motorcraft 6R ATF XL-16. Now you can add one kit or two if needed. however all i did was buy from dealer, take it to my Transmission mechanic. he dropped pan, flushed, cleaned magnet (not sure if he replaced filter). after he filled with full synthetic trans oil and added this Kit. (He had to boil water to place the white syringe until it liquefied). took about 50-100 miles for it to really get rid of grind. He charged me $120 plus the $56 i paid for kit at dealer.
#50
Congratulations!! I wish i would have figured it out before I sold my truck. I bet that's a good feeling getting it fixed!
leightonen, i also tried all the other IWE replacements, took to multiple mechanics, checked hubs/wheel bearing, vacuum lines, check valves, solenoids blah blah blah not worked...finally got it resolved. took it to my Transmission guy and apparently there is a formula that FORD uses to fix this issue while truck is still under warranty (after warranty expired they tell you to replace whole transmission). so here it goes Motorcraft 6R ATF XL-16. Now you can add one kit or two if needed. however all i did was buy from dealer, take it to my Transmission mechanic. he dropped pan, flushed, cleaned magnet (not sure if he replaced filter). after he filled with full synthetic trans oil and added this Kit. (He had to boil water to place the white syringe until it liquefied). took about 50-100 miles for it to really get rid of grind. He charged me $120 plus the $56 i paid for kit at dealer.