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i believe mine are zero offset, and i have bushwhacker pocket flares on wheel wells and with that said i know i dont have any tires sticking out further than the flares. Its been a.minute since i last bought tires, but thats whats in my head anyways. cant really tell good here but if you look real good you can see they dont stick out. heres a pic of us @ Fork with my old screamin chickin commanche ranger 250 yami.. theres a reason why they called those a.screaming chicken...
They look like stock wheels? no spacer? they'll be +44 offset if that's the case.
Thanks, i was using that one, only to realise that because it doesn't include the option for wheel width, that it's not that representative of the offset changes that i mentioned above, only the tyre gap, which i would question it's accuracy
Here's the example of the stock tyre, from stock setup with spacer to the 18" Method wheel at +18, but because you can't tell it the new wheel is 9" wide instead of the factory wheel's 7.5" wide, it thinks there is ~zero difference. The reality is there needs to be an extra 1.5" added to the wheel - now tyre and wheel are separate things, if i'm using the same cross section tyre, but a 1.5" wider wheel, then the wheel will fill out in the tyre, but the tyre itself should also expand out more too. Now i'm open to arguments against that theory, i really am.
However, this is a picture of a 12th gen, with factory flares, with a 17 x 8.5 wheel at zero offset and a 295 tyre. That's a lot past the fender, like an inch or so, and looking at all the other examples on the customoffsets site, it's the same, move to a 13th gen and it's far less pronounced, but the 12th gen stock setup apparently isn't as tucked.
These pictures are about 4.5 years old, but from when I first put my setup on. 20x9 +1 offset wheels with 295/60r20 tires. First pic is OEM flares, second pic is Lund Sport SX flares. Sits about an inch or so out from OEM, nearly perfectly flush at the widest point with the Lund flares. I personally think 0 offset looks great and kind of wish I left the OEM flares on, but it does look good when it's flush too and keeps the paint a little bit nicer (in theory), but honestly the tires still stick out past where the flares taper towards the truck and I haven't really noticed any rock chips at all in the years I've had this setup so it wasn't as big of a deal as I originally thought it was going to be. If you like the wheels, I say go for it
Thanks, that doesn't look as bad as i'd imagined - i had to compare to the intended 17" wheel, yours technically stick out 4mm further the front wheel does poke noticeably more than the rear though, so maybe that's the deal there.
The reality is there needs to be an extra 1.5" added to the wheel - now tyre and wheel are separate things, if i'm using the same cross section tyre, but a 1.5" wider wheel, then the wheel will fill out in the tyre, but the tyre itself should also expand out more too. Now i'm open to arguments against that theory, i really am.
I think that's valid. I think predicting tire stretch/squish based on wheel width is well beyond an internet calculator, and probably most supercomputing nodes as well.
I would be it's a reasonable worst-case estimation to add half the extra wheel width to each side. So in your above example I'd wager instead of 1mm further out, it's probably more like 3/4" further out.
These are 17x9 +12 with 285/70r17 C rated Toyo Open Country AT3 on a 2014 4X4 max tow. I believe a 0 offset would stick out a bit more. The front has a little more poke than I imagined it would but the rear sits nice. I'm getting used to it and want to avoid flares. We'll see how it goes.
Thanks for that, looks about right considering you don't have factory flares. It's a shame we're so restricted if we want 17's on the 12th gen (for Method wheels at least)