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Fuel module or is it the pump!

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Old Feb 27, 2022 | 12:27 PM
  #11  
MartinWillemsen's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Daniel Grigaliunas
Looks like if I jumper 1 and 5 the pump will run? Is the other the ground? So I jumper 1 and 5 for voltage and 4 and 8 to close circuit? Turn key to on and it should run pump...I dont want to blow anything.

What wires did you jump to get the pump running?
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Old Feb 27, 2022 | 04:41 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Daniel Grigaliunas
So jumpered the fuel pump. It worked. Kinda did all this as I couldn’t get a fuel control module quickly and wanted to eliminate other issues. No inertia switch in 09 models. Verified ground straps. Etc etc

turns out it was the module. Amazon sent one quick. 70$ cad. Better than crappy tire price. All fixed. One up side I learned a bit on my new truck.

thanks for all the help
what wires did you jump? I replaced the module that didn't work I want to hardwire the pump so I know it works
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Old Feb 27, 2022 | 06:56 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by MartinWillemsen
what wires did you jump? I replaced the module that didn't work I want to hardwire the pump so I know it works
I believe post #9 is what he did. If you click his profile he hasn't been active since this post, so probably better off making a new thread

This forum software doesnt alert someone you quoted them
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Old Aug 17, 2022 | 06:43 PM
  #14  
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FYI these fuel pump drive modules blow all the time. I have done three in two years. Apparently do not replace with the dorman model, use the new ford model (which I did this last time, so we will see). I also bagged it and keep the old one in my glove box as they work again after drying out.
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Old Aug 9, 2023 | 10:33 AM
  #15  
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This method worked for my 2014 base 3.7L to diagnose a bad module.

Post #9
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Old Jun 6, 2024 | 04:06 PM
  #16  
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Thanks to this thread, I was able to get the full tank of fresh gas from my totaled 2009 Lariat. I was unable to siphon it and did not want to drill the tank.

I jumpered the pins 1 to 5 and 4 to 8 on the "fuel pump control module" connector, located LH FWD above the spare tire. Removed the schrader valve core (like a tire stem core) on the LH side of the engine's fuel injection manifold. Pushed a rubber hose over the (now open) valve stem, and turned on the key.

Fuel came out at a fair rate, and within 20 minutes, filled all my gas cans. I stopped when it was just about completely empty. Just enough to start the engine and reposition the truck for the tow truck that will eventually haul this thing away.

A sad day, for sure to see my perfect F150 in smashed up shape.


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