Front wheel; won’t roll
#1
Front wheel; won’t roll
This has been really irritating the hell out of me for months. I changed the rotors and brakes on August. Since then, for some reason the right side knocks ever time you brake and accelerate. I troubleshot through everything in it and everything seemed fine.
All of a sudden, last week, I heard metal to metal. Rotor on the driver side is destroyed. I get new brakes as rotors for both sides. Left side still knocks but I’m now noticing that the driver wheel doesn’t spin freely.
My guess is the reason the right side knocks is because both wheels are braking at different rates. I try to turn my wheel and it won’t spin and outside brake pad dragging.
What in the world is going on and how do I fix this? Something is grabbing and not letting go? Or is it my bearings? There is no bearing/wheel grinding l noise either on side. I’m puzzled and frustrated as I’ve been getting 10mpg for months.
All of a sudden, last week, I heard metal to metal. Rotor on the driver side is destroyed. I get new brakes as rotors for both sides. Left side still knocks but I’m now noticing that the driver wheel doesn’t spin freely.
My guess is the reason the right side knocks is because both wheels are braking at different rates. I try to turn my wheel and it won’t spin and outside brake pad dragging.
What in the world is going on and how do I fix this? Something is grabbing and not letting go? Or is it my bearings? There is no bearing/wheel grinding l noise either on side. I’m puzzled and frustrated as I’ve been getting 10mpg for months.
#2
Senior Member
Did you put the brake pad with ears on the inside of the rotor?
#3
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Outside city limits TN
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like mentioned above, there are inside pads and outside pads. They must go on correctly.
You may also have a caliper hanging up. Over time with excess brake dust build up, road salts, etc. the slide pins will freeze up not allowing the caliper to “float” as designed. The pins are what the caliper bolts screw into. They should move freely in the caliper. If not, remove them and clean them up on a wire wheel or even with a wire brush or emery cloth. Apply a generous amount of lube to the pins and reinstall with new dust boots. Might cure your issue.
Sounds like you have to go in and replace pads and rotors again. Make sure you use new “anti rattle” clips and boots. Sometimes they come with the pads and sometimes you have to buy separately.
You may also have a caliper hanging up. Over time with excess brake dust build up, road salts, etc. the slide pins will freeze up not allowing the caliper to “float” as designed. The pins are what the caliper bolts screw into. They should move freely in the caliper. If not, remove them and clean them up on a wire wheel or even with a wire brush or emery cloth. Apply a generous amount of lube to the pins and reinstall with new dust boots. Might cure your issue.
Sounds like you have to go in and replace pads and rotors again. Make sure you use new “anti rattle” clips and boots. Sometimes they come with the pads and sometimes you have to buy separately.
#4
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Outside city limits TN
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Sorry! The pins should move freely in the caliper “mounting bracket”, not the caliper.
hope this helps you find the problem.
hope this helps you find the problem.
#5
Member
#6
Wait a minute! They’re different? What the hell? Heading to autozone soon to look in their box... I always thought all 4 we’re the same and would just throw hem on. So the ones with the “ears” go on the inside? Yea, it appear to be slightly dragging on the brakes.
thanks everyone for your help by the way.
thanks everyone for your help by the way.
Last edited by bb123; 01-05-2019 at 07:51 PM.
#7
Member
Wait a minute! They’re different? What the hell? Heading to autozone soon to look in their box... I always thought all 4 we’re the same and would just throw hem on. So the ones with the “ears” go on the inside? Yea, it appear to be slightly dragging on the brakes.
thanks everyone for your help by the way.
thanks everyone for your help by the way.
Yes they are different and cause the symptoms you are experiencing. Very common mistake so don't feel like the Lone Ranger.
.
Last edited by RLXXI; 01-05-2019 at 07:57 PM.
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#8
#9
I just want to thank each and every one you guys for helping me out. I have been spending a crazy amount of money in gas at crazy CA gas prices due to the pad dragging on that wheel for months.
Sure enough, I had two “eared” pads on the one dragging rotor and the other “non-eared” pads on the other. Both sides have been replaced with brand new pads and rotors this morning. Just going to get a few things together before taking off and testing them out.
This is going to be just amazing! Lol. I have had to listen to knocking of the rotor at every stop and acceleration for months. Literally every single acceleration and brake whether your coming to a sign or street light to just on the freeway. Finally peace at last. I’ve literally had to train myself to mentally be at peace with the loud knocking bc it would severely irritate me to the point of bloodshot eyes. I covered al the bases from the pins sticking, the holes in the rotor being the wrong size, a missing locking nut to hold the rotor with every video on YouTube showing no nut, etc. I gave up and just adapted to the noise UNTIL a month ago it was ground metal to metal on one pad when I replaced them in August. So now, the huge mystery was just a slight error. Why they just don’t put that picture on the box with “inside/outside” would resolve the issue from happening.
Thanks again!
Sure enough, I had two “eared” pads on the one dragging rotor and the other “non-eared” pads on the other. Both sides have been replaced with brand new pads and rotors this morning. Just going to get a few things together before taking off and testing them out.
This is going to be just amazing! Lol. I have had to listen to knocking of the rotor at every stop and acceleration for months. Literally every single acceleration and brake whether your coming to a sign or street light to just on the freeway. Finally peace at last. I’ve literally had to train myself to mentally be at peace with the loud knocking bc it would severely irritate me to the point of bloodshot eyes. I covered al the bases from the pins sticking, the holes in the rotor being the wrong size, a missing locking nut to hold the rotor with every video on YouTube showing no nut, etc. I gave up and just adapted to the noise UNTIL a month ago it was ground metal to metal on one pad when I replaced them in August. So now, the huge mystery was just a slight error. Why they just don’t put that picture on the box with “inside/outside” would resolve the issue from happening.
Thanks again!
#10
Senior Member
Powerstop brakes label their pads inner/outer 👍