Sweatmachine

Dumb question here: Is it necessary to remove the master cylinder reservoir cap before compressing the pistons back into the bores?

Thanks for doing this write up. It's very helpful. I just got my Hawk pads and rotors today. I'll probably install them soon. I'm at 36k miles and have some vibration when braking from high speed.

pfbz

No, not necessary to remove the cap. But if brake fluid was (incorrectly) added as the pads wore down and the level dropped slightly, you might overflow the reservoir if you don't remove some fluid first.

Modern, non-leaking brake systems shouldn't require any added fluid unless you are bleeding the brakes!

GotHonks?

Thank You , This is the kind of great info I like to see ... defiantly going to be of great help to me in the near future

BobbyC

iTrader: (1)

One thing I wanted to mention is that the pads are specific to the inside and outside. The ones with 2 little humps on the backing plate go on the inside against the pistons. The smooth top pads go on the outside. I will fit reversed but it will be tougher to install the caliper bolts and it will be canted and wear unevenly.

PaulProe

Although it is called out in the fine print in one of the posts, be very careful when putting the pads back into the holders. There is a difference between the inside and the outside pad. They will go on incorrectly but you'll have all kinds of brake dust on one side if you do it (don't ask how I know this)

Paul

Raven2210

Excellent write up. Where did you get the pads and rotors?

BobbyC

iTrader: (1)

I just installed a set of Raybestos AT rotors and ceramic pads today. Huge difference after only 28k miles on the original crap rotors and pads. I got mine from Amazon for $175 shipped (2 rotors, ceramic pads).

The 21mm bolts that hold the caliper mount was a bitch at first. I was using an IR 2131 impact wrench but couldn't get a straight shot to the bolts so I tried an impact wobble extension (2"?) but it sapped too much power. Then I realized that I'd have clearance if I turned the wheels . It took less than 30 mins for the other side.

Another tip for getting the rotor off the hub. There are 2 screw holes on the disc hat. Screw a bolt in there and it pushes the rotor off the hub. I don't know what size it was but I found one that fit in a box of bolts I had. Looks like 1/4" coarse thread with a 15mm head. It didn't fit the new Raybestos rotors but I applied a thin coat of anti-seize on the inside so I might not need it.

I don't know if I'd want to do this w/o an impact wrench. The 21mm wouldn't budge with a 20" breaker and a 3lb hammer.

Sweatmachine

Thanks again to MBullock for this write up. I just changed my front pads and rotors out tonight. My truck has 55k miles on it and the vibrations from the warped stock rotors had gotten annoying. I used the Hawk slotted rotors I bought a year ago to the day.

I've done several brake jobs on motorcycles but never on a truck. I had two buddies helping me and it took under 3 hours, including a pizza break. If we did it again I bet we could do it in close to an hour. All in all, not a bad job.

biscuit141

Sweatmachine, what pads did you go with?

Sweatmachine

Hawk LTS pads & Hawk slotted rotors.