BobLobLaw

I have a 3.7 supercab 4x4 with 3.73 gears. When I ordered my truck, I was told that in my configuration I would have a payload of just over 1500 lbs and a tow rating of 5800 lbs. I will never exceed the payload or tow ratings (I have once in the past already, but most likely never again) which is why I went with the 3.7. Well on my door it says "passengers and cargo should never exceed 1263 lbs." Looking on ford's website, the lowest payload rating is around 1500 lbs for the 3.7. So why is my payload so low? If I have 5 or even 3 people in my truck that doesn't leave much for cargo in the bed. I'm not worried as I really only haul my dogs, bikes and snowboards, just wondering why my payload is lower than what it was suppose to be.

f6bits

Optional equipment and four wheel drive take away from payload. If you want a more accurate assessment, take your fully gassed up truck to a scale and weight front axle, both axles, then just the rear axle. Subtract the full scale weight from the GVWR on the door sticker and that’s what’s left for payload. And keep in mind how much of it sits on the rear axle by subtracting rear axle weight from the GAWR (Rear) from the door sticker. In my case, my free payload is lower than what’s available on the rear axle weight. Always stay within the lowest numbers — never exceed any of the door sticker ratings.

Al Kohalic

It gets a little confuses KBS, but f6bits is right that the number you see in the brochure is what a stripped (0 extra options) can carry as you payload. As you add options, the weight of those options gets subtracted from that brochure number. The number on your door is the brochure number minus the weight of the upgrades you added to your truck. A more detailed explenation by Ford is in this pdf webpage.

I am with you in the fact that it gets a little confusing with all these numbers. Another thing that makes it confusing is how two trucks with the same gear ratio, suspension, brakes, and engine can have two different payload ratings with just a class V tow hitch add on. Case in point is an EB 4x4 Screw 3.73 145" regular tow package has a payload of 1520lbs and an EB 4x4 Screw 3.73 145" max tow package has a payload of 1900lbs. I know for a fact that both trucks have identical suspension, brakes, engine, trans cooling, engine cooling, and gearing with an upgraded receiver hitch as the only change which in theory would lower your max payload due to it's greater weight. The class V receiver hitch magicaly adds another 380lbs to your payload for some odd reason even though other then that, the truck are identical(oh and the max tow mirrors).

I wouldn't wory about it too much KBS, my truck's sticker say 1472lbs, but I safely hualed nearly a ton of dirt for a freind (not including He and I in the truck) with the greatest of ease. The truck handled and stopped a lot better then I though it would with this amount of weight in the back. You should have seen squat on the late model Ram that got loaded with just 1200 lbs in front of me. I thought his suspension was going to break.

BobLobLaw

Thank you for the info, that explains it. I have hauled 1700 lbs (plus 2 passangers) with my truck as I assumed the payload was 1500 lbs and figured 200 over wouldn't be too bad. It hauled with no problems whatsoever, I had to climb a large steep hill and hit the freeway for a bit and it did fine. I was surprised to see the payload was really 1263 lbs.

I was renovating my place which is why I exceeded payload, had to carry a load of hardwood flooring. From here on out my truck is mainly used as an unloaded daily driver. If I have to exceed payload for whatever reason, would it really be that bad or would I be ok? I have the tow package so I have transmission and oil cooing.

Also, Al kohalic I see in your signature you have a leveling kit and 33's. Does that in any way affect payload or how the truck handles with a load?

insaneperson

Good news here: http://usnews.rankingsandreviews.com...ests_for_2013/


So at least you'll be able to get a rough idea based on 2013 models.

RRF150

Regular tow and maxtow don't have the same suspension. thats why the 400+lb difference. Where do get the idea they have the same suspesion?

Al Kohalic

From past experience, you should be ok as long as it is not that often, short distance, and you limit yourself to a lower then normal speed trying not to over exhert the engine. However keep in mind that the sticker on your door is not only for you, a police officer can use that number against you and give you a ticket for being overloaded if you exceed it no matter how well your truck handles it. Your truck's bodystyle with the max tow package has a payload of 2000lbs with only the engine being different. As long as you don't get your engines exhuast gas temps up to high by overexerting it for long periods, I don't see the rest (suspension, brakes, trans cooling, rear gear) being an issue since all that is the same as the 2000lb payload truck.


The leveling kit raised my center of gravity a bit, but it did not effect handling enough to be noticed with the load. The squat was a little more noticable with the load then stock since the rake is only .5-1 inch difference front to rear versus 2.5 inches stock, but it wasn't that bad at all as you see in the picture. The EB's low end torque made the plus 1 tires size(making my ratio around 3.42 instead of 3.55) a non issue. Compaired to my old 05 5.4L Screw with 3.73 gears and 33's would get bogged down at low speeds, it is not an issue at all because of how much torque on the low end. My 33's are also E rated 10 ply tires so they obviously performed better then stock.

Al Kohalic

The regular tow and the max tow have the same suspension. Compair the bill of material part numbers for yourself. The max/regular tow and the heavy duty payload package on the other hand are different.

BobLobLaw

Thanks again for the info, I appreciate it. Reason I asked about the leveling kit and 33's is because I plan on doing the exact same setup. I was just worried before about the leveling kit and sag when driving with a load.